'97 Taurus Vulcan 123K miles:

Experiencing loss of: power steering assist, all window controls (none are lit up), rear window defrost controls, half of the MFS controls (only Hi, Lo, and turn signals work), and radio only when car is in R, (D), D, and 1. Everything functions fine when put into P or N.

I was told that there might be a TSB on this problem, but I was not able to find anything on it. It was also mentioned to me that it might have something to do with the wiring getting chaffed on something within the steering column. Any help would be appreciated! I need to get LRB back to her old self ASAP. She's my daily driver and the "reliable" one.

You need to adjust or replace and adjust the TRS (transmission range sensor). It's a black plastic box with a wiring harness connector plugged into it, that sits on the top of the transmission, and has the transmission shift cable connected on top of it.

Thats a nasty fault. Hope you work it out.

Update: I'm on my lunch break now, and when I started my car and left work, everything was working fine until I got down the road about a mile when the radio stopped working (still lights up though), but the PS was working and so were the windows, rear defrost, and MFS. I drove down to the Ford dealer and asked to speak with a tech that had experience with the Taurus. This tech suggested that it sounds exactly like an MLP sensor going bad. He said the MLP is the same thing as the TRS.

Eric over at SHOCago suggested that it might be bad engine grounds. Wtf is going on?! Ah!

I take it that you already checked the battery connections.

Interesting. I'm wondering when they re-installed your transmission that they damaged a clip to the TRS plug and it's coming loose. It doesn't make any sense that it would cause a complete electrical failure or/and or cause surges to other electrical componets? I'd take it back to the transmission shop and have them look at the connection, because it's not someone you can just look at and see for yourself. They can use a flex telescope and view it without pulling down the transmission.

I'm a new poster, but I've lurked for awhile since my girlfriend's car is a '97 Taurus with the 3.0 Vulcan and automatic. Column shifter. Variable power assist. 118K miles.

Firespirit, your problem is very likely the transmission range sensor, or also called the neutral safety switch. I just replaced that part on my g/f's Taurus. Here were the symptoms that she had:
- Radio worked in P and O/D, but not R
- Radio randomly just went silent (LED display OK, dead silence from speakers) when in O/D and D
As time passed, the radio outages became more frequent.
- Random loss of power steering (sometime with a flashing seat belt warning light also)
These were rare, but getting more frequent as well. This symptom is what prompted me to start looking for answers, radio is annoying, power steering is dangerous.
- Eventually tranny refused to go into O/D, even on the highway at highway speeds.

I searched here, and googled it. There is a TSB concerning the power steering issue related to the transmission range sensor. A few other 96 and 97 year Taurus owners had similar problems, including the loss of some power accessories.

I picked up an 8 pin (there is also an 11 pin version, but you can tell which your car has by looking at the sensor under the hood) neutral safety switch at Advance Auto for $26 including tax. Replacement took less than 30 minutes. That was over a week ago, and NO symptoms have returned.

Ford calls it the TR sensor, everyone else lists it as neutral safety switch.

I can tell you more about how to replace it if you want to do the work yourself.

Good luck.

Thank God for work, huh? I found the TSB through my work's database and it tells me all I need to know. It is, in fact, a symptom of the TR sensor.

Why not save $50 or so and get one from Advance like Linkman suggests?

Because I can get it discounted through work. All my parts manager has to do is order it from the Ford dealer and we get 25% off. I already have the part now, and will be installing it this weekend (possibly Sunday).

Your loyalty scares me.

To Ford. Unless my math is wrong, you're paying twice as much for the same part, even with 25% off. I just don't get it.
Did I miss something? Is yours the 12 pin version?

Hey everyone-I was wondering if someone can help me. I just replaced my trs in my 97 gl and I accidently moved it when i installed so it was misaligned I aligned it to the line when i put in on and the reverse lights werent going on when I was in reverse. They i moved the line on the circular dial a little above the line but the reverse lights will only go on if i go from park to reverse or if i go from drive to reverse i have to move the shifter past the reverse mark and then on the reverse mark so they go on. How do I align it correctly if I never marked where the line was when I got it out of the box? Thanks.

I am going to guess that it'll be trial and error now that you did not mark the old position.

Shift Control Linkage
The transmission shift linkage adjustments must be performed in the order in which they appear.

Column Shift

Place transaxle range selector lever in (D) (OVERDRIVE) position or D (DRIVE) position on vehicles equipped with a transmission control switch (TCS). A weight of 1.4 kg (3 lb) should be hung on the transaxle range selector lever to ensure the lever is located firmly on the (D) (OVERDRIVE) or D (DRIVE) position on vehicles equipped with a transmission control switch (TCS) detent.

Loosen manual control lever-to-control cable retaining nut.

Move transaxle manual control lever to OVERDRIVE position or D (DRIVE) position on vehicles equipped with a transmission control switch (TCS), second detent from most rearward position.

Tighten retaining nut to 17-23 Nm (13-17 lb-ft). Check operation of transaxle in each transmission range position. Make sure that park mechanism and transmission range (TR) sensor are functioning properly.

Floor Shift

Position transaxle range selector lever in DRIVE position against rearward stop. The floor transaxle range selector lever must be held in the rearward position using a constant force of 1.4 kg (3 lb) while linkage is being adjusted.

Loosen manual control lever-to-control cable retaining nut.

Move transaxle manual control lever to DRIVE position, second detent from most rearward position.

Tighten retaining nut to 17-23 Nm (13-17 lb-ft).

Check operation of transaxle in each transmission range position. Make sure that park mechanism and transmission range (TR) sensor are functioning properly.


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And is this suppose to help me align it?

No it will not HELP you align it. It WILL align it.

Ok thanks. The only step i am not quite understanding is

"Move transaxle manual control lever to OVERDRIVE position or D (DRIVE) position on vehicles equipped with a transmission control switch (TCS), second detent from most rearward position."

What are you pretty much doing for this step? Sorry. Thanks again

Put the gear shift into overdrive

Hey FizzWhiz, did that fix it for you?


I have am having VERY similar problems with my 98 taurus 3.0L DOHC. I'm going to inspect my TR sensor and maybe replace it tomorrow.

Hey sorry I have not have time to fix the issue...i am going to attempt to fix it this weekend. I'll keep you posted.

Ok so I attempted to fix my reverse light issue and it didnt work...i think i did it wrong. Can someone explain the instructions in a simpler way? I know I kind of sound retarted but I am not understanding the directions so well. What I thought the direction meant was to put the car in overdrive, loosen the bolt that connects on the trs with the arm and then make sure the car was in overdrive all the way again and tighten the bolt. Did I misinterpret the directions?

I just want to get this fixed bc when i backup from going from drive to reverse the lights dont go on and other cars dont see that which can be an issue.

You need to hang a three pound weight on the shifter during alignment also.

If the needle on the gear indicator matches up with the detent you feel through the handle, then you aligned it properly. If the lights aren't still coming on it's probably something else.

BTW, I replaced my TR Sensor and now the car runs like a dream. Very easy fix.

What do you mean the detent you feel through the handle? Do you mean when the car is on?

I have a 1996 Taurus LX w/Duratec & console shift with 160k miles. The trans TRS module was an 11-pin version & replacing it was the fix for my electrical gremlins...intermittent power steering loss, radio out when shifting (worked in "park"), no blinkers & most of the other symptoms I've read in this column. Thank you all for your contribution to my fix. I had my mechanic do the work, as he has been reliable, honest & thoroughly enjoyed the odd repair. Judging from the schematic, the TRS should have had no relationship to the symptoms. Other than replacing a cpu/processor, the car has been absolutely reliable.

Anyone know where i can get this damn part without it costing me $167 from ford? AZ, Advanced, and O'reily's doesn't have it. I've tried ebay, but I haven't been able to get my hands on a cashiers check that and i'm concerned in spending money on ebay items...

NVM, found it on RockAuto for 55 bucks. It was called a "Neutral Safety Switch" rather than a "Transmission Range Sensor"

My mechanic charged me $105 after his mark-up. It came out of the Chicago area. Mine was an 11-pin switch, he said the 8-pin was more common. That's not to say he made a nice mark-up on the part. I wouldn't buy it used or from a junkyard. The switch just wears out, much like a rotor/cap connection.

8 pin is for the AX4S and 11 pin is for the AX4N.

Ashley, did you ever do a tutorial on this? Or should I just use all that text you put up there on the first page?

Your tutorials are seriously great...

Okay, I'm having a wierd problem with my 99 Taurus OHV that seems like it might relate to this thread subject. My cooling fans are only operating while in park. On four seperate occasions I have driven the car without the cooling fans kicking on, but once I pull into a parking spot and shift the car into park, with-in just a few seconds the cooling fans switch on. I have replaced the CTS and the pigtail that connects it (I found a burn mark along the gray/red wire and re-established the connection behind this point to ensure continuity). The fans turn on, but only if the car is placed in park. The fans do not run at stop lights or while waiting in a line of traffic when the coolant is obviously getting hot enough because it steams and overflows from beneath the radiator cap. If I disconnect the sensor so that the fans run continuously, they will run at all times no matter the gear, as long as the key is in the on or run position. All other cooling system components are operating correctly.

Speed sensor, PCM or TRS.

Thanks, SHOZ123. The PCM seems to be acting okay, it kicks the fans on in park and kicks the fans on if the CTS is unplugged. I'll look into the TRS and VSS.

CTS=ECT Engine Coolant Temperature??????

If the CTS is the coolant temp sender than it would set a code if the wiring was bad. Unplugging it makes the PCM think it is bad and the PCM then turns on the cooling fans as a failsafe mode.

There are two relays, one for high speed and one for low speed. Do the fans come on when in drive, stopped with the AC on?

Yes, CTS is Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS=ECT). I have not tried stopping with the A/C on (though there is a problem with my A?C- I haven't used it since buying the car as I'm a smoker and just lower the windows. Will this matter?) to test the cooling fans, but they would not kick on while driving (parked at a stop light) or stopped anywhere while in drive. I know the coolant is getting hot enough because after shutting off the engine, there is steam coming from below the radiator cap and coolant overflows from beneath it (the cap). The fans never kicked on until I shifted the car in park. Shifted into park, fans came on, killed the engine, coolant overflowed. I have done a block test and have come up negative for combustion/emission gases in the coolant. If the fans run continuously (which I know is bad for the car), the coolant moves a little with heat soak, but it doesn't ever come close to overflowing. These problems have to be related, I just don't understand how. Where is the high speed fan relay? The big box everyone talks about (The CCRM) was discontinued in 1998-2001 (I don't know about after 2001), and I have a black box with replacable relays mounted on the driver's side of the battery. This contains one large relay (the same size as the larger relays in the Power Distribution box) and six smaller relays (the same size as the smaller relays in the Power Distribution box). What do these relays control? And what do the three relays in my GEM control?

Another possibility is the system is not building pressure due to the tank or cap leaking. The fans won't come on until close to the boiling point of a non pressurized cooling system. The tanks leak on the bottom notoriously. You cannot see it unless you take the tank out and look for cracks.

Looks like I finally figured this one out. It seems that it was the high speed cooling fan relay, and the reason that it would operate only in park was because it was sticking and the shifting in the engine compartment from drive to park would make it slip free and make contact. I put the relay from the Driver's Side Window into the first large square relay in a relay box (unlabeled and no information in Haynes' or the Owner's Manual, I have another next to the GEM that I don't know what goes into it, nor do I know the other six that go here) located on the driver's side of the battery. The fans started kicking on in every gear (P, R, N, D, (D), and 1). I let the fans cycle several times (about a 30 second duration when stopped-no matter what gear) and drove to the cigarette store. My girlfriend kept the car drive but kept her foot on the brake while I bought the smokes (the fans cycled a couple times while I was inside) and we drove back home. The coolant didn't overflow, but I think I found a crack in my expansion tank. Could help explain all the steam I've been getting. But anyway, it seems things are working now. I'll be checking the ground wires soon... over 104 degrees here today. Thanks for all your help.

After talking to a few shops I think I figured out my problem, cheap off-brand TRS sensor that failed prematurely? HOWEVER, I'm NOT having the window/radio/p-s problems. I'm acually having funky shifting/slipping problems. Could it still be the TRS? That IS the code i'm getting. I have also heard if I get a genuine Motorcraft sensor, I more than likely will not need an alignment tool?