New Edit:
I wrote this posting over 4 years ago. I am not a tranny expert and I do not even own the car anymore. I am glad this posting has been helpful to so many people, but I don't recall anything of the task I did back when I wrote this. It is nice getting emails from people thanking me for the information, but I can't really help you out with technical questions.

====================================
Instead of just taking information from this forum, I thought I would give some back, by providing an update to a transmission question I posed a couple of months ago. Since I'm a technical writer/engineer, I'll even give a quick rundown on the repair I completed (I saved myself over $2,000 with about 2 days of semi-skilled labor).

Symptoms: My 96 AX4N transmission would hesitate engaging at a stop sign and eventually completely failed with no forward or reverse gears. There was absolutely no engagement, so the clutch pack was not suspected as a problem.

Diagnosis: Before I did anything else, I checked to see if the pump was working (based on telephone advise from a helpful tranny shop). With the car cold and NOT running, I checked the tranny fluid and made note of how high on the dipstick it was (it should be VERY high). I wiped the dipstick off, but did not replace it yet. I then started the car and inserted the dipstick back in within 10 seconds, and rechecked the level. Since the level dropped, I thought the pump was working. Actually, I think if I had re-checked the level when the engine was warm I would have found the level to still be high (I later discovered the pump had failed).

I next towed the car to an AAMCO shop that read the computer tranny codes at no charge. He came up with three codes indicating incorrect gear ratios and a fourth code (the root-cause code) indicating that the torque converter control valve was stuck.

The technician (very helpful) suggested that the retaining clip on the control valve was broken, and this caused the valve to get stuck. This is apparently a common problem because the valve slams into the retaining clip fairly hard. He then took me down to the repair area and showed me an AX4N valve body, the location of the control valve, and what the retaining clip looked like.

Research: Before I began, I went to the library and accessed the "AllData" web site. This is a mechanic's resource site with a very expensive subscription, but my library provides it for free. I located the procedure for removing the pump and valve body from a Taurus. The procedure was not very clear, but it did show a drawing of what bolts need to be removed. (I have a better picture shown below though).

I also checked out a copy of the Haynes manual (not Chilton) for the Taurus. It doesn't describe how to remove the valve body, but it did show me how to remove the motor mount and sub-frame. However, it failed to tell me I needed to remove the main cross member (neither did AllData).

==============
Postscript After posting this and re-reading it, I realized that the rest of this discussion seems one-dimensional. What you should note is that most of the AX4N tranny problems are related to the valve body. The same procedure and discussion is useful for ANY valve body problem even though mine was the pump. Getting the valve body out of the tranny is $1800 worth of the total repair!
==============

Final Cause: It wasn't until after I got the car apart that I discovered the real cause of my problem. All of the symptoms pointed to the control valve. However, I discovered that the pump shaft had sheered and the pump was fouled up with metal pieces. There was enough friction between the two halves of the broken shaft to make the pump turn slightly, and this is why I didn't detect it earlier.

Inside the pump are two guide rings. These broke and the metal pieces were trapped inside the pump body. The pump would still function properly under high RPM even without this rings. However, at some point the metal pieces jammed into the vanes and seized the pump. This caused the pump shaft to sheer off. The inset photo is an Internet picture of what the pump is supposed to look like.
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Repair Options: For $200 I could get new pump parts, but there is a risk that metal got into the solenoids (which are electromagnets). Or for about the same price, I could get a complete valve body and pump at a junkyard. I chose the junkyard. (The junkyard would have provided a completely rebuilt valve body for $350.)

Tools:
When I took on this project, I assumed that with the $2000 savings I could buy some additional tools. I bought a bunch of tools, but the ones listed below are what I really needed.

Metric socket set with a wide variety of extensions and universal joints.
Air ratchet is helpful but not required.
Impact wrench with metric sockets.
Jack stands are mandatory.
At least one floor jack.

Disassembly:
To help me reassemble the car, I took a bunch of pictures.

1. Clean the engine compartment to prevent dirt from falling into the open tranny.

2. Remove the battery, battery box, and battery support bracket.

3. Remove the air intake box and sensors.

4. Disconnect the main wiring harness that is sitting over the tranny control cover. This is a large rectangular connector with a bolt running down the center to hold it together--remove the bolt. You also need to remove this connector from its mounting bracket. I think there is a retaining tab, and then it just slides off. This took a little while to figure out.

5. Do what ever else is necessary to get the rest of the wiring out of your way. Go have a beer, relax, and try it again. You need to have the whole area directly above the tranny side cover clear in order to remove the cover. It will be a tight fit as it is.

I noticed from the new batch of photographs that there was another harness connector I removed. (I suspect two of them actually). This connector is located above the shift link shown in one of the photos below. It may have been the one leading to the tranny solenoids.

=============
6. Jack the car up and remove the driver's side wheel.

7. Turn the steering wheel to give you better access to the wheel well.

8. Place at least one jackstand under the car behind the wheel. Important: Make sure the jackstand is under the unibody frame and NOT under the main cross member supporting the engine. I had to place an additional jackstand under the front of the car to keep the right-rear wheel from lifting.

8.5 (Missing Step) Remove the inner plastic splash guard from the wheel well.

9. With the car's frame supported by jackstands, relocate the floor jack to support the driver's side of the engine (support but don't lift).

10. Remove the isolator (1-nut and 2-bolts) and motor sub-frame (3-bolts and 2-nuts I think). (You won't be able to remove the parts yet.)

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11. Raise the engine slightly (mainly to know it is supported).

12. Remove (at least partially) the two bolts that secure the main cross member to the unibody frame. (The main cross member is what the isolator is sitting on. You'll know it when you see it--it is the main support for the whole front of the car.) This is necessary because you don't have enough clearance between the cross member and the unibody frame to remove the engine mount. I found that lowering the cross member an inch or so was all I needed (I did not remove the bolts). I also found out that my cheap impact wrench was not strong enough to loosen these bolts. A friend brought his Ingersol-Rand impact wrench over and made quick work of the bolts.

13. Raise the engine until the engine sub-frame touches the wheel well (as far as it can move) and remove the isolator by moving it toward the rear of the car (big hammer helps).

14. Using some finesse, remove the engine sub-frame from the engine first, and then the transmission. Raise and lower the engine a couple inches as needed to give you the clearance. Be careful. The reason why this is tough is because there is a stud on both the engine and transmission that you need to clear before you can move the frame. Don't bend these studs.

==================
15. Drain the Transmission fluid. I removed the main pan and drained the fluid before I removed the side pan. I thought I had done this with almost no mess, but the next morning I discovered that the transmission had hemorrhaged more fluid over night. I later realized that the cooling lines had drained over night.

16. Remove the nearly two dozen screws that secure the side pan to the transmission. Some screws are accessible from the engine compartment and some are accessible from the wheel well.

17. If the gasket is a thick, ribbed rubber then it is reusable, so be careful not to damage it. If it is cork, then throw it away.

18. Carefully remove the side pan through the top of the engine compartment. It will be a tight fit, but it will fit. Remember, the front face of the valve body has solenoids on it and you don't want to damage these (see picture below).

19. Disconnect the wire connectors at the 5 solenoids (3-right and 2-left) and the temperature sensor at the very bottom. (My wiring harness was stiff enough that replacing it later was a no-brainer--all of the wires lead straight to their respective solenoid.)

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20. Disconnect the linkage arm at the top-rear of the valve body (near the wiring harness you just removed).

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21. If I remember correctly, there were 25 screws holding the valve body to the transmission. The 4 screws across the bottom are shorter than the others. The 5 of 7 screws through the pump cover are longer than the others. If you remove a screw that seems too short, stop and put it back in before removing any others (especially on the pump cover, you don't want the internal parts to fall out).

22. With the screws removed, the valve body should pop off the transmission with just a little effort. Pull it straight back toward the wheel well. Note that the pump shaft is fit tightly, so cocking the valve body may cause it to bind. The pump shaft MUST stay with the transmission or you can't remove the valve body (it extends into the torque converter by about 8 inches). Because my pump shaft scored the sleeve in the valve body, I had a hard time pulling the shaft out of the valve body, and thought there might be some type of retainer--there isn't. It is a slip-fit spline, so everything should come apart easily.
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===================
23. With the valve body removed, if you need to replace any of the 3 right-hand solenoids, press in on the retainer, rotate them slightly, and lift them straight out.

24. The two analog solenoids are held in with brackets. Remove the screws and lift the solenoid out.

25. If you need to replace any of the valves, I would recommend bringing the valve body to a tranny shop for a rebuild. This should still be pretty cheap.

===============
26. When you replace the valve body and cover, I recommend counting the number of screws as you torque them down so you don't miss any.

27. After refilling the transmission with fluid, recheck it after running the engine for a short time, and again after it has warmed up. For me, I forgot about the fluid that drained out of the tranny cooler, and ended up running low in the first minute or so.
=====================
=====================
If you like this type of information, you might be interested in some of the articles I've written. The most popular is "Electricity in the Woodshop" (a comprehensive discussion about electricity and wiring). Click on the link below to go to my main web site.

Rick Christopherson
Waterfront Woods

You did an incredible job of documenting your work and giving back to the Club. Very professional. Thanks.

All that work and you didn't install a shift kit? LOL!

On behalf of the Tcca I would like to commend you on your efforts! I wish more people would take the time to learn these things!

I will be doing a couple transaxle overhauls/upgrades in the next year here. I have never rebuilt an AX series transaxle, but have done a few rwd ford transmissions. I bought the ATSG book and video. The video was good, but geared for training experienced transmission guys on how to work on the ax4s. Had I not previously rebuilt some Ford AOD's and 4R70W's I would not have understood their terminology. Hand on experience is the best way to learn!

Again, great job! someone should archive this or put it in an article.

Jeramie

Really good job. I think we should hire you for the FAQ page documentation.



I had a TC solenoid replaced last spring. Cost $450 with about $80 in parts. If I'd had this I would have done it my self.

EXCELLENT documentation! We'll be adding this to the FAQ, if you don't mind.

On behalf of the entire club, I think I can safely say thank you very much!

Wow!!! That was freaking awesome!

JR

Mike

Damn man, feel free to strip us of info anytime you want, so long as this is how we're repaid. Well written and shot.

Thanks for the positive comments. When I get to the office tommorrow I will look to see if I have the other pictures I took. If I find them, I will edit the original posting to include them.

Off the top of my head I know I took a picture showing the engine mount and possibly another one showing the wiring harness. Check back in a day or so.

Powertoolman, Great Write up! Good info. I know that the rest of us can benifit from this. Thank you!



Sal

I found the missing pictures and added them. I also corrected a trivial mistake and an ommission.

Would these instructions apply to the Gen II Taurus as well?
So you can ramove the pump and valvebody without removing the whole transmission from the vehicle?

Nice Writeup!

I just want a library like yours (Provides all-data for free!)

-Damon

Wow, amazing job!

So could you theoretically remove the valve body (say to install a shift kit), with the transaxle in the car?

very nice documentation.

Very Nice as well I had the same issue If i had this info 2 Months ago this would have been good....And I would Have saved X amount of dollars...Very Nice documentation....Wow reading all that put me In Jumbles...GOOD JOB!

I have a 97 Taurus GL with the AX4N and started to do some searching on the internet when my tranny started to act up.
The symptoms were:
- slow to engage into drive when taken out of park or neutral
- "service engine soon" light came on and, though I forgot what the code # was, the reason was because the torque convertor was not locking up at highway speeds.
- eventual "surging" when at a complete stop. this was from the tranny doing what felt like jumping back and forth from drive to neutral ,though the gear selector was not moving nor was it stuck between D and N.

My searches turned up your posting and, suspecting (and hoping) the problem was due to a bad pump, I decided to tackle the repair in my garage.
It turns out my suspicion was correct, the pump input shaft bearing had come apart and the pieces of the bearing were keeping the pump from supplying enough fluid to stay in gear at low engine speeds and lock up the TC at highway speed.

I want to say a big THANK YOU! for your posting. I don't know if I would have attempted this repair if I hadn't seen your article first.
The instructions were very good, clearly enough to do the job if you have some basic mechanic skills and tools.
I do have one tip for anybody doing this repair: you don't have to remove the metal battery support bracket completely. Mine was stuck to the body with some type of sealant and aven after removing the retaining bolts, I would have had a hard time removing the bracket. As long as you remove the plastic tray and the battery, you have plenty of clearance.
Also, because I couldn't seem to get enough clearance to do so, I never removed the engine sub-frame completely form the car. I just removed all of the bolts and nuts and moved the sub-frame away from the engine enough to remove the pan.

The entire repair took about one 10-hour day and cost me about $230 for a new pump, housing, and shaft. The tranny place that got the new parts for me said they would have charged about $700 for th total repair. The savings was well worth the effort!

THANK YOU POWERTOOLMAN!

wow fantastic write up man! thanks

Great write up! Shouldn't this be in the "Solutions to Common Problems/How to" articles? I realize this is not the most common probem, but it is an excellent "How to" article.

here's more good info about part numbers and updated components. http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?p=702956#post702956

I was going to ask you a question i'm having problems with vehicle running on 1st gear but not shifting to

second gear, it runs reverse but that's all. I'm buying a solenoid package that includes all five solenoids for $145.50, i'm just going to change all solenoids and see if that well fix problem any advice you could give me that may prove me wrong that solenoids won't be the problem and may need a transmission rebuild pls respond

Just wanted to say thanks.

I completely replaced my ax4n this week... had to drop the subframe.... yummi

i live in independence KY. how much would you charge me for a rebuild if i pulled the tranny and sent it to you?

Just wanted to post in this thread in case I have to rebuild the tranny on my kids car

Mike

Did this job a few weeks ago. It went very well thanks to your detailed instructions. I'll add two items that may help.

1) The two studs holding the engine mount frame have a hex in the end. Remove the studs and manipulating the frame will be MUCH easier, both in removal and installation.

2) If this is your own vehicle, you can take a shortcut so you don't have to loosen the main front cross member at all. The engine mount frame has two gussets that strengthen the pad that sits on the engine mount. One of the gussets is squared off while the other is angled at approximately 45 degrees. Since it's the squared off gusset that interferes during removal I took a grinder and cut off the top corner that was causing problems. I can't think of any reason why this gusset would be squared off as the strength of an angled gusset should be quite sufficient. The square gusset can be seen in the photo of the engine mount.

My problem was with a loss of 4th gear where retaining clip (~$5.00) broke in the valve body and was easy enough to replace. Now that I've done this once I'd estimate that it would only take about 4 hours to do the whole job thanks to your instructions.

I have a '95 Taurus that is very slow about shifting back into lst
gear. The motor revs until it decises to re-engage. Everytime I stops
the same problem with re-starting in lst gear occurs. Got any idea
what my problem is? Thanks!

Sounds like a cracked forward clutch piston. Common problem on older cars.

[font=Comic Sans Ms][quote name='powertoolman' date='Jan 10 2005, 01:47 PM' post='142277']
Thanks for the positive comments. When I get to the office tommorrow I will look to see if I have the other pictures I took. If I find them, I will edit the original posting to include them.


Tony O^Ng CO.p
Dear Sirs: Still no Joy. I belong to other forums on gun collecting and Aviation and have no trouble communicating, geting questions answered, etc. I just can't get the hang of TCCA system. What am I missing in your instructions?
I really need help in understanding my transmission problems. I think that it is something simple and I don't trust my local Trans Mech for any RIGHT answeres. Vested interests you know.
Please take the time to answer this and get me on the right track.
Tony O^Ng CO.p
Cochran, Ga.

First Try:
Greeting Sirs: I think that I'm signed in?? My user name is "Tony O^Ng CO.p". (I spent a little time in South East Asia with the 214th Combat Avi. Co.)
I have been tring to connect with the forum and the guy (powertools, Jan 2005) who repaired his AX4N trans on his '96 Taurus.
My problem is that it shifts nicely in the Drive and/or OD detent, but not in[font=Comic Sans Ms] REVERSEundefined and acts like once in awhile it will try to take off in manual 1st.
I bought it as is from a lady. The lady had some shop replace the 3.0 engine and that's when the shift problems started.
I followedQuestion outline. Dropped the Trany, removed the side cover. Everything worked just like he said. I checked all the solinoids, resistance wise and functional operation. All Ok.
I dropped the main pan. A little dark thick settlement, but the fluid looked good and no metal bits and pieces. I flushed out the Trans cooler.
Then I put it all back together, waited untill the compute settled in. I tried it and it's the same thing.
Since the Reverse or Manual 1st gear isn't electronicaly controled, could it be something about the way the "TRS" was set up.
Nothing in my book is clear about how to do that? Like they think it was something that I should have been born knowing.
I keep thinking that it all relates back to the engine change. I like the car, I bought it for my son. One of my other son's has '98 with the Duratec (sp?) and I have three 91 model Taurus. The only bad thing is that I have killed several deer with them. I use my '91 Taurus SW to haul all my aircraft tools and parts for my AV8'er work, very useful. I really like the Taurus. I've been a GM/Chevy man until I got the first "91 Bull.
Cheers, Tony O^Ng CO.p
I hope that you can get this on the Forum.

[attachmentid=26032][attachmentid=26032][quote name='Tony O^Ng CO.p' date='Jun 11 2008, 11:03 PM' post='633115']
[font=Comic Sans Ms][quote name='powertoolman' date='Jan 10 2005, 01:47 PM' post='142277']
Thanks for the positive comments. When I get to the office tommorrow I will look to see if I have the other pictures I took. If I find them, I will edit the original posting to include them.


Tony O^Ng CO.p
Dear Sirs: Still no Joy. I belong to other forums on gun collecting and Aviation and have no trouble communicating, geting questions answered, etc. I just can't get the hang of TCCA system. What am I missing in your instructions?
I really need help in understanding my transmission problems. I think that it is something simple and I don't trust my local Trans Mech for any RIGHT answeres. Vested interests you know.
Please take the time to answer this and get me on the right track.
Tony O^Ng CO.p
Cochran, Ga.

First Try:
Greeting Sirs: I think that I'm signed in?? My user name is "Tony O^Ng CO.p". (I spent a little time in South East Asia with the 214th Combat Avi. Co.)
I have been tring to connect with the forum and the guy (powertools, Jan 2005) who repaired his AX4N trans on his '96 Taurus.
My problem is that it shifts nicely in the Drive and/or OD detent, but not in[font=Comic Sans Ms] REVERSEundefined and acts like once in awhile it will try to take off in manual 1st.
I bought it as is from a lady. The lady had some shop replace the 3.0 engine and that's when the shift problems started.
I followedQuestion outline. Dropped the Trany, removed the side cover. Everything worked just like he said. I checked all the solinoids, resistance wise and functional operation. All Ok.
I dropped the main pan. A little dark thick settlement, but the fluid looked good and no metal bits and pieces. I flushed out the Trans cooler.
Then I put it all back together, waited untill the compute settled in. I tried it and it's the same thing.
Since the Reverse or Manual 1st gear isn't electronicaly controled, could it be something about the way the "TRS" was set up.
Nothing in my book is clear about how to do that? Like they think it was something that I should have been born knowing.
I keep thinking that it all relates back to the engine change. I like the car, I bought it for my son. One of my other son's has '98 with the Duratec (sp?) and I have three 91 model Taurus. The only bad thing is that I have killed several deer with them. I use my '91 Taurus SW to haul all my aircraft tools and parts for my AV8'er work, very useful. I really like the Taurus. I've been a GM/Chevy man until I got the first "91 Bull.
Cheers, Tony O^Ng CO.p
I hope that you can get this on the Forum.
[/quote]

Quite frankly your post are difficult to read. Try putting everything in plain text with normal punctuation.

And there is no such thing as a '91 3.0L Yamaha motor with an ATX.

spammer maybe?

Hi Tony,

Type up exactly what you want to say in the message window, then hit the add reply button at the bottom of the message window. Don't change any font, sizes, or other stuff. Just simple text should work here

Tony aint a spammer.

Not a spammer. Computer n00bie, yeah, but not a spammer.



From the attached documents:



Props to an 81 year old wrenching on his car.

Mates: I thought that I had outlined my problem in detail.
No reverse
No Manual 1st
Good smooth shifting in (D) and in (OD)
The Trans worked OK until some JackLeg mech changed the Engine.
Hows that?

Sorry Folks; I'm a writer of short stories about life and Army Aviation. Realizing that all of my readers are not into the military aviation scene I try to write so that everyone will understand. Apparently I have failed with this Taurus group. I did my best to include all the clues that would help more knowlegable people dianose my problem.
(Sorry about the spelling. I never got good with that) No spell checker here.
Cheers any how from Tony (the pretty old Tiger)

If the tranny is the same on then I would guess a wiring issue. Not so sure on the old stuff.

Have you tried to pull any codes from the PCM? Here's how to do it.

http://www.shotimes.com/php-bin/modules.ph...ld=0&sid=83

I'm talking about the '96 and the AX4N Trany. No wireing changes. When I had the side cover and main pan off there were no chipps or burnt oil.
Although the REVERSE gear is not electronic, I checked all the solinoids as per "powertoolman"s instructions. All tested OK, as they should be because the Trany shifts great in Drive and Overdrive.
Tony O^Ng CO.p

91 Taurus 4D all 3.0 engines AXOD-E Trans.
91 Taurus SW
91 Sable GL
96 Taurus GL AX4N transmission

Possibly a failed reverse piston or clutch?

Transmission range sensor or shift linkage problem?

Reply from Tony O^Ng CO.p:

Yeah, I know, that's the step that I skiped. I did it the right way the first time. I've got it cleaned up now.
Next problem; I have the side cover off all 25 bolts as per "powertoolsman" instructions. (I missed a couple at first) I've checked and double checked and the valve body is still on there yight. I've bumped it with a rawhide mallet. It feels like it's still bolted on. But going by "powertoolsman's" photos I've got them all except the 5 that he said to leave in.
I'll wait for a answer. I'm done for this evening. It's HOT down here in Middle Georgia.
Cheers, Tony O^Ng CO.p

Yeah, I know, that's the step that I skipped. I did it the right way the first time. I've got it cleaned up now.
Next problem; I have the side cover off all 25 bolts as per "powertoolsman" instructions. (I missed a couple at first) I've checked and double checked and the valve body is still on there yight. I've bumped it with a rawhide mallet. It feels like it's still bolted on. But going by "powertoolsman's" photos I've got them all except the 5 that he said to leave in.
I'll wait for a answer. I'm done for this evening. It's HOT down here in Middle Georgia.
Cheers, Tony O^Ng CO.p

This is an amazing right up! I am experiencing a tranny problem that I may be similar to what you had, but I want to make sure before I start this project. My tranny at stop lights sometimes takes itself out of gear when I come to a full and complete stop. This happens only rarely, but when it does, you put your foot on the gas to go, and the car go about 2 miles an hour. You roll foward, and eventually the wheels squeal a little bit, the car lunges foward, and it puts itself back into gear and drives fine. When you say your tranny was hesitating at a stop sign, is that similar to what happened to you?

Powertoolman,

Thank you for your helpful step by step instructions....we are certainly trying to follow your advice to the T however we can't get the transmission pan out. we have lifted the engine a bit to give more space but we are lacking about 1/2 - 1 inch. Any suggestions.....

Thanks, Camille

Camille, my son and I are doing this right now. our pan came off with just trying to twist and turn it different ways with the tranny jacked about as far as we could get it. Leave the gasket hanging on the valve body until the pan is out. Just keep trying and you will hit the right combination.

Now for my problem. We have all of the required bolts removed from the valve body with only the 5 remaining as recommended in the instructions. That dog gone thing feels like it is welded in. We have tried with my son pulling from the top and me from the wheel well and are having no luck at all. I also tried prying a bit with a screwdriver between the gasket surface and a casting flange. It did not budge but I didn't dare put too much force behind it. Any body have any ideas?

Thanks, Rich

Man do I believe in the power of prayer! After having reviewed the bolts that I was supposed to take out about ten times and thinking I had them all, then not being able to get the valve body off, I said a quick prayer this morning. Thinking of what would be the best approach I did a bolt count, 22! sure enough one short I printed out the page from the Ford manual and started checking of the empty holes. One didn't look familiar, the one right above the pump. I couldn't see it from either above or below so I felt for and there it was, the one bolt that was holding things up.
Yeah, most people would have caught it, but I need a knock up side the head every so often from God to get things figured out.

Sorry for taking up so much space here, but lest I forget to give credit where credit is due, a ton of thanks to Powertoolman. I wouldn't have known where to start without his great write-up.

Hi everyone, I'm Mike, new to this forum and very impressed with the information. I have a 2000 Ford Taurus SES with 91,250 miles on it. The transmission has been flushed by Ford every 35k miles. I have never had a problem issues with my transmission in the past and no engine codes other than EGR (broken hose). Last week I was at a stop light two miles from my house heading out to take my boys to get haircuts. When the light turned green, the engine accelerated but the car did not go forward. I turned the engine off and back on, the car slowly moved forward to a safe place as the engine RPM was ~2000RPM.

After towing it home, I let it sit for a few hours then checked the fluid level and measured it, then I started the engine and let it run for 20 minutes - the fluid level dropped almost an inch.

I then dropped the transmission fluid pan and observed dark red fluid, no "burnt" smell, no metallics other than the metal "fines" attached to the magnet.

After raising the front end up and placing jackstands under the frame, I replaced the transmission filter and fluid. Leaving the front tires off the ground I decided to start the engine and move the shift lever into drive, the wheels began to turn. As I pressed on the accelerator, the wheels began to turn faster, then they slowed to a stop. I let the engine idle - no wheel rotation, then I turned the engine off and back on, put the transmission into drive and the wheels turned again for about 3 minutes, then they stop. After they stop and I press the accelerator I hear a "grinding" noise that I don't hear when I first turn on the ignition and accelerate.

My initial thought is that I have a fluid flow restriction - does this fall in line with the valve body change out within this thread as a possible solution?