This might be a good area to ask this...
I am still trying to figure out why my car wont start. I have a 1994 ford taurus gl 3.0 OHV
with an AXOD auto tranny. 2 months ago, the car would run. The only things wrong were I had a brake line leak (which in the midst of this huge DIY tune up, I replaced all brake lines and proportioning valve to fix that issue (very tough job!) Other than the brakes, I didnt pass DMV inspection cause of slightly too high emissions. Scottis muffler did an engine diagnostic when they put my muffler on a day or 2 prior to the inspection and i remember them saying in particular 2 codes were pulled. 1 was a weak coil (i hope they meant ignition coil cause thats what nI replaced, and not the small coil on the top of the distributor thats by the rotor under the cap) and the other was the EGR DPFE
sensor. So I replaced the DPRE sensor. Here is a list for all of you who know alot about cars of what I replaced. Maybe you can tell me what could be the reason for this?
6 new motorcraft spark plugs (yes, they are gapped to .044), Ignition coil, all new distributor wires (6 for plugs to cap and 1 for cap to coil), new distributor cap and rotor, EGR DPFE
valve, Air temp sensor, coolant temp sensor, temp switch, both gaskets for the valve covers (rocker arm covers), upper intake manifold (plenum) gasket, thermostat w/gasket, IAC
(Idle Air Control) valve gasket (which strangely, it didnt have one before I put one on), brand new positive battery cable, upper radiator hose. Then while the upper intake plenum was off and inside, I cleaned the **** out of it. I sprayed a lot of carb & choke cleaner at the gunk that was caked on the throttle body plate. I sprayed it all inside the intake itself through each 6 of the holes so it would loosen some of the gunk and oil deposits.
Now... The few things I have noticed and then the symptoms. Ready? And here we go! The inside of the Mass Airflow Sensor was clean. The actual sensor mounted on the outside of the steel where the connection goes on has a broken connector locking tab. I doubt its an issue because the connector goes into the MAF
sensor and dosnt move. Its just missing the cheap little plastic tab. One other important thing is after nearly everything was replaced, I sprayed the GUNK engine degreaser gel all over the place. At some point, this car had an oil leak and tranny leak. You could barely see the tranny pan cause of the caked on oil. Same with the side of the engine towards the firewall and the right side of the engine (if you are standing in front of the car) near the big bundle of wires and connectors and hoses and then a lot near the bottom of the engine (when both front tires were off and I had a clear view to it all), and lastly the side of the engine at the front of the car by the radiator where my starter & solenoid are (there was ALOT of gunk on the starter and solenoid. You couldnt barely recognize it). I sprayed the crap out of all of it, trying to of course be careful where I was spraying. Let it sit for 10-15 min then I used the hose to get as much as I could off. I am wondering if I messed something up with all the electrical crap when I was rinsing, or if any of the degreaser got on anything. There is a connection on the starter solenoid I was worried about. Obviously its attached to the starter. Well the positive battery cable went on one side of the solenoid and was held on with just a nut. Next to it was some small connector that was a little corroded and had a lot of caked on oil. I have no idea what that is and what it does or where it goes. So those are my worries.
Now comes the symptoms of the car to date. Once I finished replacing all what you saw above, I started reattaching all the other stuff (all the different connections to the sensors, vacuum lines, the throttle cables, any hoses that I removed to get the plenum off, the black air pipe that is attached to the plenum by a clamp where my ( I guess you could say built in throttle body is?), the MAF
sensor and its connection, the air filter and its assembly, then finally the battery. After all new parts were on, after all other things were replaced, I took a deep sigh at the work I had just spent a month and a half on (yes, its a long time but it was inbetween mid january and end of march and I was alone so I had to pick the right times to go out to do it) and smiled, especially with all the work I went through with the brake lines (gutting them, re-creating length with new line, finding new and correct brake line fittings, flaring the lines, bending the lines, then finally installing). I sat in the car, turned the key slowly through each process. Got to the on position where the accessories turned on and took a deep breath, AND..... Nothing..... I turned the ignition and the car would turn over but not start. When I turn the key, if I start giving it gas and keep on the gas, the engine will run. The moment i let off the gas, it stalls out. Today I learned that when I gave it gas to keep it on, coolant started to leak and even flew out. That shouldnt be a HUGE problem though. Its coming from the thermostat housing. I am gonna use this new RTV sealant and new gasket and even put teflon tape on each of the 3 bolts cause it looks like the bottom bolt has fluid coming from it. So hopefully that will solve that problem.
If anyone knows by my descriptions of the problem and the parts I replaced, what cpould be the problem, that would be GREATLY appreciated! The first thing mentioned to me was timing. However, I didnt touch the distributor except to replace the cap, nor did I do any work on or near the pulleys (in particular the harmonic balancer where the camshaft is) so I dont see how my engine could be out of time when it was running prior to this tune up. Then someone said camshaft position sensor. I was starting to buy it but after a video or two on youtube and a tiny bit of forum reading, I doubt I have a camshaft position sensor. I have a distributor so from what I hear, there is no need for the CPS. I guess they started those in 1996 when they replaced the distributor? Then I started to hear crankshaft position sensor. I dont have a clue where this is. But even if I knew, would that cause the engine not to start?
Ok, this was long enough. Please let me know of any suggestions cause my next move is giving up on trying to save money from excessive labor charges and getting it towed to this auto shop in Dover to run an engine diagnostic to see if it finds anything. I would go buy an OBD1 scanner but from what I hear, they dont get very detailed as the OBD2 scanners do. And from what I hear, they wont even tell me a code. I have to count the number of times the check engine light blinks and that is the code? Ummm, no.... That has problems written all over it. Ok, im done. Ideas? Thoughts? Prayers?