Idle issues - duratac - Page 4 - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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post #31 of 46 (permalink) Old 11-12-2012, 07:39 PM
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If you want to do a heli-coil job on your own, I recommend taking off the winshield cowling and wipers and lower cowling.

Dealer charged me $600 labor and $100 to do a heli-coil on my 2000. Have yet to hear of 96-99 or 01-05 having threads strip out, seems like only us 2000 guys have the problem (i have had 2 or 3).

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post #32 of 46 (permalink) Old 11-12-2012, 10:31 PM Thread Starter
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Lucky us, huh Bull?

My valve covers are leaking - so, I had planned doing upper intake, lower intake and valve covers anyway - I had all that in the car ready to go when this happened. I have the plenum off and will pull the covers in the morning.

I'm skurrd.

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post #33 of 46 (permalink) Old 11-15-2012, 12:10 PM Thread Starter
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Well - the plug that shot out... installing a new one felt like the other cylinders. It screwed down, tightened and took the required torque with a torque wrench... plus some.

I decided NOT to cut the cylinder for a helicoil. I will keep the kit in the glove box just in case.

What do you think? I'm now using a torque wrench on plug changes and using anti-seize as well.

It's running fine.

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post #34 of 46 (permalink) Old 11-15-2012, 02:06 PM
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Don't over torque it too much... don't want to break anything.

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post #35 of 46 (permalink) Old 11-15-2012, 07:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clskmstg View Post
What do you think? I'm now using a torque wrench on plug changes and using anti-seize as well.
These two don't go together. When you put anti-sieze on the the threads it increases the lubricity so the plugs end up tighter than if they torqued the same amount dry. Spark plug torque specs are always listed for dry threads. Most quality plugs come with nickel plated threads, so you don't need to use anti-size on them unless you're prone to forgetting to change them on time. I skip the anti-size and just go with a little dab of dielectric grease in the boots.
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post #36 of 46 (permalink) Old 11-15-2012, 10:12 PM Thread Starter
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Anti-seize, no anti-seize.... for every 4 people, you get 6 opinions. I torqued to 89 inch pounds. Many have told me because of the aluminum heads - you need to use anti-seize. Oh well - to be debated.

Generally, did I do the right thing by installing the new plug and not cutting new threads and helicoil, ya think? She's running fine now. I'm scared to drive it far just yet. There's no fuel smell with the heat anymore. The miss is gone. I assume if this happens again - I'll start getting lean codes and misfire codes. I think now, I'm going to check my plugs when I change oil each time.

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post #37 of 46 (permalink) Old 11-15-2012, 10:43 PM
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Well, if the threads are okay and the plug just came out because it was loose then you might be okay.

A torque of 89 inch-pounds is on the low end, but that's probably okay considering your use of anti-sieze. I think the specification might be 132 inch-pounds (dry of course). I would leave them alone for now and see what happens.
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post #38 of 46 (permalink) Old 11-16-2012, 07:13 AM
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If the spark plug exploded, the likeliness of internal damage is unlikely. The miss that you are or were dealing with came from the coil pack and or vacuum leak. There is a steel vacuum line located on the back side of the motor, it has it's mounting brackets welded to the vacuum tube. If the line breaks free from the mounting brackets, it can leave holes in the vacuum tube where it's brackets were welded to. Check that out...

=^..^=
_ Taz _
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post #39 of 46 (permalink) Old 11-16-2012, 10:39 AM
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Andy, if it happens to come back out, you'll know it immediately when you hear that "gun popping" noise, lol.
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post #40 of 46 (permalink) Old 11-16-2012, 11:21 AM
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^
Not to mention the loss of power and CEL that will soon follow

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