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Old 01-26-2009, 08:57 AM   #1 (permalink)
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We have a 2003 SES with the DOHC 24v Duratec engine that my daughter drives while she is at college. Engine has only 40-45k miles, yet the check engine light came on recently. It has been misfiring at low RPM (at idle) and start ups are a bit rough (may take a second crack to get started)

She went to Autozone to get the OBD-II codes pulled; they pulled a P0303 and P0316 trouble code. While their printout indicated a cylinder #3 misfire (P0303) and a crank sensor condition (P0316) [the Chilton list P0340 as the crack position sensor code], the manual does not list a P0316 in the OBD-II code table.

Elsewhere, I have found that the P0316 is an Engine Misfire Detected on Startup (First 1000 Revolutions) problem, which seems to make sense since the car is rough at start-up. This weekend I was able to check out the coil pack, check the plug wires, replace the plugs with OEM Motorcraft, and then put everything back together using dielectric to protect the electrical connections.

Here is what I found with the coil pack:
<blockquote>Primary resistivity in the range of 0.6-0.8 ohms (Chilton manual indicates a spec of 0.5 with no range)
Secondary resistivity in the range of 10.2-10.9k ohms (Chilton manual indicates a spec of 13.5k ohms with no range).</blockquote>
Plug wires had continuity with the following resistivity:
<blockquote>Cyl 1 4.81k ohms
Cyl 2 4.36k ohms
Cyl 3 4.96k ohms
Cyl 4 8.31k ohms
Cyl 5 9.08k ohms
Cyl 6 10.42k ohms</blockquote>
These values seemed to make sense as they were proportional to the plug wire length. After putting everything back together car still seemed to start a bit rough and at low rpm (e.g. at stops) would "skip a beat" periodically and in her words "vibrate".

She indicates that the check light has came back on after a couple of trips within 24 hours of getting it back together. She is concerned that she might be doing permanent damage to the car by driving with the light on.

I also replaced the air filter, cleaned the MAF sensor and the EGR valve while I had those off (needed to pull the intake mani to get to the coil pack and back bank of plugs ... they don't make it easy do they!). She has not gotten back to Autozone to get the codes pulled, but I am expecting to get the same set.

Here are my questions/suppositions:

1) What could be possible root causes of a P0316 code coming up.
2) Am I right to think that if I resolve the P0316 issue the P0303 ought to take care of itself?
3) If a coil was getting weak wouldn't I expect to get two misfire codes on the companion cylinder to #3; is it safe to rule the coil pack out as a root cause?
4) My plug wires seem to be in goof shape; is it safe to rule them out of contention.
5) Lacking any other suggestions, is this narrowing down to a possible plugged injector on No 3 cylinder? If so what is a good way to clean it without pulling the rail off (remember, this one is on the back side of the engine on drivers side).

Welcome any thoughts and suggestions ... I wish I had a real time OBD sensor for this [and my 2001 Expy which also seems to want to throw off low EGR flow codes no matter what!]

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Old 01-26-2009, 05:06 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
1) What could be possible root causes of a P0316 code coming up.
2) Am I right to think that if I resolve the P0316 issue the P0303 ought to take care of itself?
3) If a coil was getting weak wouldn't I expect to get two misfire codes on the companion cylinder to #3; is it safe to rule the coil pack out as a root cause?
4) My plug wires seem to be in goof shape; is it safe to rule them out of contention.
5) Lacking any other suggestions, is this narrowing down to a possible plugged injector on No 3 cylinder? If so what is a good way to clean it without pulling the rail off (remember, this one is on the back side of the engine on drivers side).

Welcome any thoughts and suggestions ... I wish I had a real time OBD sensor for this [and my 2001 Expy which also seems to want to throw off low EGR flow codes no matter what!]

[/b]

I expect you will resolve P0316 by resolving P0303. When the coil pack fails, you may or may not have two cylinders report misfire. You can inspect the coil for fine cracks, usually across the bottom. You may change the fuel filter if it has not been done recently. OEM plug wires generally last well over 45k miles. You might try a bottle of Techron, but there is no sure fire way to effectively clean a clogged injector without removing it. A failing coil pack seems the most likely culprit, as it is a fairly common failure.
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Old 01-29-2009, 11:29 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I dont know about the misfire in the taurus but your 01 expy probably has a pluged egr port in the inlet elbow (where the throttle body hooks up to). I just got done fixing this problem in a friends 00 expy.
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Old 01-29-2009, 07:14 PM   #4 (permalink)
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my car pulls the same code while the injector needs to be replaced and it is weak of the start and pulsates on hard accelleration so maybe an injector maybe the culprit
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Old 02-02-2009, 09:23 PM   #5 (permalink)
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As spidget said, find and fix the cause of the P0303, and the P0316 will go away - that misfire on startup code is being set because cyl #3 is misfiring on startup, so fixing the misfire will remove the misfire on startup code. As he also said, check the coil pack for cracks, as they are a common failure, and you know the plugs and wires are good. Try swapping the coil pack with one from another car if you can get one. If that's not the problem, then try the injectors - swap the #3 injector with another one, clear the code, and wait for the code to come back. If the code changes to whatever cylinder you put the #3 injector in, then the injector is the problem. If the code stays the same, then it's not the injector. FWIW, my vote goes to the coil pack being the problem.
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Old 02-07-2009, 08:43 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Previously, when I pulled the coil pack to check spec it's condition looked like new ... no cracks and epoxy potting was in great shape.

What I did not mention earlier is that the car sat for most of a month (only used a few times over the Christmas break). It was after she got back to school 2 1/2 hrs away that the problem emerged.

While changing the plugs and doing some PM on all the electrical connections (dielectric) the codes came back after a few cycles. Once she put in a 32 oz bottle of Lucas Injector Cleaner into a fresh tank of gas the problem eventually rectified itself and the engine light cycled off. Then a couple of tanks later the P0303 and P0316 both came back (it is logical they are related).

She is back home this weekend and I added another 32 oz of Lucas and at first it ran pretty rough, especially through a hard acceleration. But once up to 70 plus mph the roughness settled out. I think those of you that have suggested a plugged injector are onto something. How hard is an injector replacement and should I go with Motorcraft or one of the after market brands at O'Reiley's, AutoZone, or AdAP

Thanks


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Old 02-07-2009, 09:11 PM   #7 (permalink)
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It's not too difficult. Since you've have the UIM off before, the job should seem fairly straight forward. Remove the UIM to get access to the fuel rail. You may need to disconnect the fuel line from the rail. I think there are 4-6 bolts that hold it to the LIM. Remove those, then use a rocking motion while pulling upon the rail to remove the rail from the injector. Some injectors may stay in the rail while others stay in the LIM. It is usually recommended to replace the injector O rings at this point. (I've never had re-used O rings leak) I use WD-40 on the O rings when I reinstall them to help them slide into place more easily.

You can swap the suspect injector to a different cylinder to diagnose a bad injector. If you don't have time for that and want to just replace the injector, I would recommend you stick with Motorcraft or Denso (the OEM supplier)
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Old 04-14-2009, 11:54 AM   #8 (permalink)
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QUOTE (2003SES24v @ Jan 26 2009, 07:57 AM)
Quote:
We have a 2003 SES with the DOHC 24v Duratec engine that my daughter drives while she is at college. Engine has only 40-45k miles, yet the check engine light came on recently. It has been misfiring at low RPM (at idle) and start ups are a bit rough (may take a second crack to get started)

She went to Autozone to get the OBD-II codes pulled; they pulled a P0303 and P0316 trouble code. While their printout indicated a cylinder #3 misfire (P0303) and a crank sensor condition (P0316) [the Chilton list P0340 as the crack position sensor code], the manual does not list a P0316 in the OBD-II code table.

Elsewhere, I have found that the P0316 is an Engine Misfire Detected on Startup (First 1000 Revolutions) problem, which seems to make sense since the car is rough at start-up. This weekend I was able to check out the coil pack, check the plug wires, replace the plugs with OEM Motorcraft, and then put everything back together using dielectric to protect the electrical connections.

Here is what I found with the coil pack:
<blockquote>Primary resistivity in the range of 0.6-0.8 ohms (Chilton manual indicates a spec of 0.5 with no range)
Secondary resistivity in the range of 10.2-10.9k ohms (Chilton manual indicates a spec of 13.5k ohms with no range).</blockquote>
Plug wires had continuity with the following resistivity:
<blockquote>Cyl 1 4.81k ohms
Cyl 2 4.36k ohms
Cyl 3 4.96k ohms
Cyl 4 8.31k ohms
Cyl 5 9.08k ohms
Cyl 6 10.42k ohms</blockquote>
These values seemed to make sense as they were proportional to the plug wire length. After putting everything back together car still seemed to start a bit rough and at low rpm (e.g. at stops) would "skip a beat" periodically and in her words "vibrate".

She indicates that the check light has came back on after a couple of trips within 24 hours of getting it back together. She is concerned that she might be doing permanent damage to the car by driving with the light on.

I also replaced the air filter, cleaned the MAF sensor and the EGR valve while I had those off (needed to pull the intake mani to get to the coil pack and back bank of plugs ... they don't make it easy do they!). She has not gotten back to Autozone to get the codes pulled, but I am expecting to get the same set.

Here are my questions/suppositions:

1) What could be possible root causes of a P0316 code coming up.
2) Am I right to think that if I resolve the P0316 issue the P0303 ought to take care of itself?
3) If a coil was getting weak wouldn't I expect to get two misfire codes on the companion cylinder to #3; is it safe to rule the coil pack out as a root cause?
4) My plug wires seem to be in goof shape; is it safe to rule them out of contention.
5) Lacking any other suggestions, is this narrowing down to a possible plugged injector on No 3 cylinder? If so what is a good way to clean it without pulling the rail off (remember, this one is on the back side of the engine on drivers side).

Welcome any thoughts and suggestions ... I wish I had a real time OBD sensor for this [and my 2001 Expy which also seems to want to throw off low EGR flow codes no matter what!]
[/b]
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Old 04-14-2009, 12:00 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I have the same engine and year. Same problems as you aptly describe. With me the jury is still out. No vacuum leaks, and I have already replaced coil, wires (premium) and plugs (Ferd). It went away for a while but the 303 and 316 caqme back. I bought a can of 44K ($20 at AZ). Am awaiting as I wrtie a new injector...ARGGH. Will post what happens as time goes by....but not a long lead time.

Good luck to both of us.
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Old 04-14-2009, 12:06 PM   #10 (permalink)
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QUOTE (2003SES24v @ Feb 7 2009, 07:43 PM)
Quote:
Previously, when I pulled the coil pack to check spec it's condition looked like new ... no cracks and epoxy potting was in great shape.

What I did not mention earlier is that the car sat for most of a month (only used a few times over the Christmas break). It was after she got back to school 2 1/2 hrs away that the problem emerged.

While changing the plugs and doing some PM on all the electrical connections (dielectric) the codes came back after a few cycles. Once she put in a 32 oz bottle of Lucas Injector Cleaner into a fresh tank of gas the problem eventually rectified itself and the engine light cycled off. Then a couple of tanks later the P0303 and P0316 both came back (it is logical they are related).

She is back home this weekend and I added another 32 oz of Lucas and at first it ran pretty rough, especially through a hard acceleration. But once up to 70 plus mph the roughness settled out. I think those of you that have suggested a plugged injector are onto something. How hard is an injector replacement and should I go with Motorcraft or one of the after market brands at O'Reiley's, AutoZone, or AdAP

Thanks [/b]
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