Chirp Noise At Idle, Not S-belt - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-06-2008, 10:09 PM Thread Starter
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I have an 03 3.0l OVH fuel flex with 52k miles. I noticed it's makes a chirping noise when i start up on the driver's side of the engine.

If I push on the throttle the noise goes away or if the car is warmed up, it doesn't occur. I can definitely tell it's not the s-belt or any of the pulleys.

The car is kept in a heated garage, so it was never below 60* F. About twice in the last six months, maybe 40 seconds after i've started my car and drove it almost died and did die. A few times I had to hit the gas to make sure i started. I think that might be related.

I did first suspect the s-belt for the chirping and stalls, but it's definitely in good shape and the noise isn't coming from it.

I've attached a picture (not of my car) but it shows where the noise is coming from.

From what I've searched, it sound like it might be the cam sensor, but when it's warmed up it goes away which doesn't seem to match the problem.

On a possible related note, I've tried e-85 a while ago (before this problem) and I had hard time starting my car. I had to push the pedal down to start it.


Any ideas?
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-06-2008, 11:14 PM
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Camshaft position sensor

Search CPS here on the forum, you'll find writeups and several occurances such as your own. Common failure really...

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-07-2008, 12:07 AM
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Camshaft synchronizer assembly. The c.p.s sits on top of it. Odd that it's giving you trouble so early, but the 00-03's did have a problem with them.

The cars have trouble with cold starts on e-85, regardless of the functionality of the synchro.


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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-07-2008, 08:46 PM Thread Starter
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So it sounds like I should replace the synchronize and the sensor while I am at it. How hard of job is it to do yourself. Do i need to be a TOD or anything similar.

What parts work best? Researching it i found the Dorman may or may not be good. I only want to do this once, so I don't mind spending money on a quality part.

I'd like to get a new motorcraft, but i can't figure out the part number. I'd like the sync and the sensor
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-13-2008, 01:03 PM
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From what i've heard, stay away from the Dorman part. If you go to the dealership, they'll be able to look up the one you need using your VIN. Or just go to a parts store and tell them what you have - they should be able to look them up for you just fine. It's not that hard to do it yourself. Take the sensor off, and put a mark from the synchro vane to the housing. Also mark the housing to the block. Remove the synchro, and transfer your marks to the new part. Install it and make sure your marks are lined up. There, done. It doesn't have to be in EXACTLY the same spot to run fine, but if you're too far out, you'll know, as it may misfire and you'll get a hesistation when you hit the gas.

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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-18-2008, 11:40 AM
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Quote:
So it sounds like I should replace the synchronize and the sensor while I am at it. How hard of job is it to do yourself. Do i need to be a TOD or anything similar.

What parts work best? Researching it i found the Dorman may or may not be good. I only want to do this once, so I don't mind spending money on a quality part.

I'd like to get a new motorcraft, but i can't figure out the part number. I'd like the sync and the sensor
[/b]
Stay very far away from Dorman.

I bought a Cardone reman at NAPA for $55, P/N 30-S2600, with synch and sensor

Ford-Motorcraft P/N is DA2089, about $200, with synch and sensor

2003 Mercury Grand Marquis

2002 Taurus SE "Evelyn" 221K+ miles 3.0 Vulcan AX4S - RIP
1995 Taurus GL "Bonnie" 72000 miles 3.0 Vulcan AX4N - RIP

If you need help with a Taurus problem, feel free to PM me or
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-10-2008, 06:36 PM
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Just wanted to comment that I had same symptoms (car chirping at idle, and getting progressively worse). Tonight I replaced with Cardone 30-S2600 (not L - although they looked identical). Took about 1 hour and could probably now do in 1/2 hour.

Just a couple things to add to above instructions:

1) Mark CPS cap rotation before removal
2) Remove CPS cap and mark location of shaft lobe on synchronizer, before removal.
3) Wire assembly is a bit of a pain to get around, but I managed to pry it out of the way without breakage/damage to plastic wire housing.

Nathan
Note: my 2003 has 170,000km on it.
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