Thank you all for your comments.
Here is what I did after reviewing the archives on this problem:
1.Removed battery cables and one altenator cable, cleaned cables and battery posts and replaced.
2. Insured engine mounts were ok. ( Car has 50,000 miles) Some archives mentioned the twist of an engine with a broken mount could pull the harness away from the alternator.
3. Took car to Auto Zone in town, approx. 3 miles - no battery light came on. Told employee at Auto Zone what was happening and they wheeled out their machine for testing the battery and alternator. Cables from the tester were hooked up and right away he was able to tell me the battery voltage was good - started the car and held for a few minutes at 2000 rpm
then shut the engine. The readings showed the battery and the alternator were good . I remember he stated the alternator was putting out about 65 amps which was supposed to be ok under this type of test load. He also mention sometimes the voltage regulator is built into the alternator.
I have no affliation with Auto Zone but must say Auto Zone does a tremendous free service for the public with this test. They also can do this test with the battery and alternator out of the car in their store with another test machine. I certainly will buy my auto needs from them.
Here is what I will do now:
Nothing , until I get some sign that there is a problem with another dash light or other indication that something is wrong. Then we'll start the process again to determine what is wrong - hopefully all is ok , if not, I will provide another post.
Thanks again to all for your comments.