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Old 05-12-2005, 09:34 AM   #1 (permalink)
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The dealer told me, among other things, that I need a front right motor mount. I found the Ford OEM part for about $75. I just did the oil pan for $350 at the dealer, and maybe that is when I should have done the motor mount, but I didnt so here I am. So does anyone know how much labor is involved in the front right motor mount for a 1993 Taurus GL 3.0? Is it worth doing? I was thinking I should because it will now be putting a lot of stress on the other mount. Also, the delaer said it is throwing some alignment things off too cause the engine is cocked.

Thanks for the input

-Tim
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Old 05-12-2005, 09:38 AM   #2 (permalink)
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It's not hard at all. On the Vulcan you don't even need to drop the subframe, as the top bolt is accessable from above. The whole thing should take 20 mins. tops.
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Old 05-12-2005, 09:41 AM   #3 (permalink)
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20 minutes? really? that is a relief is that is true. The dealer said it was like a $250 job. Believe me, I want you to be right, but are you shure? If it is only 20 minutes labor, that would be awsome.

thanks everyone
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Old 05-12-2005, 09:48 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by timmy_435@May 12 2005, 10:41 AM
20 minutes?* really?* that is a relief is that is true.* The dealer said it was like a $250 job.* Believe me, I want you to be right, but are you shure?* If it is only 20 minutes labor, that would be awsome.

thanks everyone
Well, I did it in 10, so I figured 20 minutes to be sure. It really isn't that bad.

Jack the front end up and put it on jackstands. There's a bolt you can see on the mount while looking down from the top. Remove that bolt while gently supporting the engine with a jack and a wide block of wood on the oil pan. Then remove the large nut on the bottom of the subframe and pull the mount out from up top.

Reinstallation is the reverse of the above procedure. Make sure to use Loctite and/or a lock washer on that top bolt--it has a nasty habit of working loose and falling out if you don't.
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Old 05-12-2005, 03:47 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Don't suppose it's that easy on a 3.8?
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Old 05-12-2005, 04:21 PM   #6 (permalink)
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it's close to it, but you will need alot of extentions and swivel extentions. the AC compressor is in the way of getting a direct shot to the nut on the top of the mount, but you DO NOT have to remove the compressor like the book says. also with the 3.8 you have to unbolt the rear mount as well.

it is eazier to replace all 3 at one shot. jsut take the bolts off of all the mounts and jack the engine/ trany up about 3-4 inches woggle hte new mounts into place and lower it back the tricky part is aligning the engine with the new mounts
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Old 05-12-2005, 08:35 PM   #7 (permalink)
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support the entire weight of the motor against the oil pan? that is plastic
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Old 05-12-2005, 08:41 PM   #8 (permalink)
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plastic?? is it really? i find that hard to believe. of course, i don't know the vulcan very well as i have a 'tec
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Old 05-12-2005, 09:13 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by sundarpn@May 12 2005, 08:35 PM
support the entire weight of the motor against the oil pan? that is plastic
plastic....i dont think so, maybe im wrong but ive change the oil on ALOT of cars and i never saw no plastic pans...saw a bunch that were rusted to **** though
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Old 05-12-2005, 09:14 PM   #10 (permalink)
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The pan in my '92 Vulcan is steel. I know because I had to replace it due to a rust through condition . The replacement pan was steel as well and it came from the FOMOCO dealer.

I would be very surprised if Ford used plastic for the oil pan. It doesn't seem like a wise thing to do.
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