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Old 07-22-2004, 10:40 AM   #1 (permalink)
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On a 1999 Taurus Vulcan...is there even a radiator drain plug on the fool thing? Spent a long time looking for it last time and finally just had to pull the bottom radiator hose. Now I've got to flush the heater core and change the fluid and I sure would like an easier method this time.

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Old 07-22-2004, 10:52 AM   #2 (permalink)
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As I recall, on my previous car, a '96 Vulcan, it was on the driver's side right under the radiator and accessible without removing the cowling under the car.

On my current car, an '00 Sable Duratec, I had to remove the cowling to get to the drain ****. It had 9 bolts that required a 7/32 socket to remove along with 3 bolts that needed an 8 mm to remove. Wouldn't surprise me Ford changed it so you need to remove the cowling. Probably helps their CAFE... fuel mileage.

So before I replaced the cowling on my car, I took a jig saw and cut out about a 6" square underneath the drain **** so I wouldn't have to remove the cowling next time I needed to drain. Then I covered the hole with duck tape.

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Old 07-22-2004, 02:35 PM   #3 (permalink)
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John is right. You have to remove the black plastic cowling to get to the radiator drain plug. It is on the drivers side, right on the bottom corner of the radiator.
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Old 07-22-2004, 06:46 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Just do what I did, I took a holesaw, and cut through the cowl, then everytime I need 2 access it, its there.

Adam
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Old 07-23-2004, 09:23 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Thank y'all! It's exactly like you said, just remove the cowling underneath (10 screws alltogether), and there it was right there. Never seen so much plastic on a car in my life though

I read something on here about grouding the radiator so the coolant won't be sujected to electrolysis as fast for the 'brown coolant' problem. With the radiator being mostly plastic, how does one do that?
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Old 07-23-2004, 10:42 AM   #6 (permalink)
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The oxidization comes from the cast iron block, not from the radiator. There is a TSB (technical service bulletin) from Ford on this. You can go to the dealership and get a bypass kit that will remedy the brown coolant problem. I have not done this: instead I use a coolant additive called "Blue Ice". It is similar to redline's Watter Wetter; it conditions the water to prevent corrosion. I flushed my colling system out over a year ago, and the coolant is still nice and green.
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