Hello! Also having trouble pinpointing trouble with this code..
New to me 2003 125 mile Sable Duratec OHC idle high in general [1050 to 1100 can vary to 1125 to 1175 after driving a while]and on rare occasion will go way up as stay up 2500+ [P1507 code]. This 1050+ seems high to me as expect 1k or below in neutral. Will go to 1000 down to 850 or so in gear no always same.
Initially, I replaced TPS
(motorcraft) and IAC
seemed to help a bit but had to return aftermarket IAC
(crazy high rpm
) and decided to clean old IAC
and it works smoothly by hand [pics]. Researched threads and am now focusing on PVC valve, vacuum leak, or cleaning throttle body.
PVC - PVC seems like headache to get to and mine was replaced at 93k tune up by PO. Hoses look OK and from other threads may even be better aftermarket elbow at intake end. [See pics].
Intake leak - I hear no vacuum leak and inspected lines/hoses OK. I am puzzled by what appears to be slow oil leak by one of intake bolts [pic]. Could this be sign of vacuum leak issue?
Throttle body [TB} I got ELM 327 reader and torque app and got error P1507 (engine light) and have been tracking idle and decided to turn down idle screw (initially showed 18% at closed) and got it to 17.8% only and but idle RPM
still high per above. When I first checked TB
seemed to snap down sharply and not stick. I decided to turn screw out way further (not running) and detect a bit of sticking at very bottom (previously had and fixed this issue with cleaning carbon on my Caravan). Could this be the idle problem ?? Seems not with rare running way up. ALSO - WHAT IS THAT OPEN HOLE AT TOP OF TB
? Initially thought missing bolt but see channel inside of hole - air for IAC
or just blank hole?? [pic]
Throttle Body - Based on above looking for some advice before next move. I am thinking I could remove the ducting to throttle body and clean carbon from there to see if I can get lower stop point without any sticking. Could this alone be causing the idle problem (torque app shows 17.8% throttle position at idle now)??
At that point I would have some access to replace the PVC valve but that still looks hard to get to. Will a socket actually reach that PVC valve. Have seen some utube using needle nose or just hose end for remove and replace but would that work (do not want to remove intake)? If I do decide to replace WILL only get Motorcraft for a new PVC valve but am even confused on the various maker plumbing parts available and not sure of correct Motorcraft part.
Lastly should I be concerned about that minor oil that I see by intake bolt as sign of potential vacuum leak [pic]. Not a lot of oil but dampness returns and I also saw some oil down further on inner side of manifold when looking for PVC - hard to say on source. No vacuum leak sounds.
Thanks for any advice!