2003 Sable ..Sooooo COLD it froze my coolant. - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-04-2017, 01:17 AM Thread Starter
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2003 Sable ..Sooooo COLD it froze my coolant.

OK so, my coolant reservoir had cracked and due to lack of funds, couldn't replace it. Therefore, the darn thing cycled most of the antifreeze out and I was refilling it with just water until I could repair and seal it up. Now, I screwed up!! Overnight, it got really windy and bitterly cold here in northern Iowa. I have had the antifreeze to put in it, but I've been sick and had fallen asleep last night and now its FROZEN SOLID.

So, I went out to start it earlier and it slowly cranked a few times, then it fired up. All I know is there was a loud squealing sound and the cab began to fill with smoke. Now, I'd killed it right away after smelling and seeing smoke under the hood. I don't know what was smoking but have a feeling it was my serpentine belt due to water pump being frozen up. Like i said, I screwed up. Dealing with cancer here, got alot on my plate, perhaps too much at times. I hope no other damage is caused by this. I'm gonna prolly have to leave it be until Thursday when it warms up a little. I got a boneyard tank to replace it with, ..looks good but we'll see if she will hold up.

Any ideas? I'm really purdy worried about this. Thanks!!
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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-04-2017, 08:52 AM
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Sorry to bring you bad news but I would expect a popped freeze plug or two at the least. If there was a little coolant left maybe it just turned to slush and damage won't be too bad.
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post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-04-2017, 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Automender12345 View Post
Sorry to bring you bad news but I would expect a popped freeze plug or two at the least. If there was a little coolant left maybe it just turned to slush and damage won't be too bad.
Radiator is the first thing to freeze. Short term too cold but longer will get the engine block.

-chart-
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post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-04-2017, 05:35 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah that is bad news...looked at it earlier could see an icicle hanging dripping, with a wet spot undernieth ....followed it up to where the transmission meets the block. NOT GOOD. Sounds like it's gonna be a quite involved problem. Ugh
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post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-04-2017, 06:13 PM
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There are a couple of freeze plugs between the transmission bell housing and the engine block. However the transmission has to be dropped to get to them.
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post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-04-2017, 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Automender12345 View Post
There are a couple of freeze plugs between the transmission bell housing and the engine block. However the transmission has to be dropped to get to them.
Worth note, they are called "freeze plugs" but that is not what they are for. Part of the casting process. Good freeze will break things in addition to the freeze plugs. Those plugs often rust and leak with poor coolant maint in iron block engines.

But just a little tec stuff.

-chart-
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post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-05-2017, 06:52 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you guys. I guess I really don't know where to start. Drop the trans, fix the obvious I suppose. Suppose to get a little warmer on monday. Gonna get the car over to my buddy's house and start taking a better gander at it. Thanks a million for your responses. I certainly do appreciate everything.
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post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-05-2017, 07:28 PM
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The issue I see is that you don't know if there is any damage elsewhere on the engine. Heads could have cracked and other parts of the block. Radiator could also be damaged. You could clamp the radiator hoses off and pressure test through the small 3/8 inch hose that connects radiator by the reservoir. The heater core should also be pressure tested by clamping off the hose to the water pump and applying pressure to the hose that goes to the thermostat.

Not sure how to test the block out without sending it to a shop or just getting a replacement engine but I guess dropping the transmission is needed either way. That's if there is water flowing out between the engine and the transmission.
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post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-05-2017, 08:47 PM
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On a 14 year old car, I would evaluate just how good it is body wise. Nice and I would consider a JY engine/tranny and radiator. If the heater core pressurizes ok keep that. Heater might be the last thing to freeze. Sheltered from the cold. You could find yourself putting more into it than it is worth to you.

I bought a '03 Sable LS Prem wagon 99K and totally rust free, loaded car for $4K 2.5 years ago. And from a Ford dealer. Of course that is near impossible in my rust belt location, but a FL/NJ car that was a "snow bird" car can be rust free.

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post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-07-2017, 12:17 AM Thread Starter
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I bought a '03 Sable LS Prem wagon 99K and totally rust free, loaded car for $4K 2.5 years ago. And from a Ford dealer. Of course that is near impossible in my rust belt location, but a FL/NJ car that was a "snow bird" car can be rust free.

-chart-
Ouch! lol
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