Crankshaft front seal replacement questions - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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post #1 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-03-2016, 07:29 PM Thread Starter
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Crankshaft front seal replacement questions

Hi Guys,

I'm looking at replacing the front crankshaft seal on my old bull here, I've found a puller tool from rockauto, a DORMAN 594999 Puller, is this the correct tool to remove the vibration dampener, and do I need any other tool to fit the seal?

Thanks!

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post #2 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-03-2016, 09:41 PM
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That is similar to the harbor freight puller I use. The HR version had more bolts sizes.
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post #3 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-03-2016, 10:28 PM
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I would want a short piece or tube the right side or similar to tap the new seal in.

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post #4 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-04-2016, 12:43 AM Thread Starter
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Do I need a special tool to re-install the dampener? My Paines manual gives reference to T82L-6316-A but I can't seem to find one on sale

If at first you don't succeed, hit it wiv a 'ammer.
To fix a Ford, a lot of creative thinking is required.
---
1995 3.0L Taurus wagon 222,000km on the clock - running and maintained
2002 3.3L Dodge Grand Caravan, 164,900km on the clock - work in progress
1995 Peugeot 306 hatchback 1.9L XUD diesel -80,000 miles on veggie oil - sold!
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post #5 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-04-2016, 08:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by norite View Post
Do I need a special tool to re-install the dampener? My Paines manual gives reference to T82L-6316-A but I can't seem to find one on sale
There is a special tool to install the damper but I did three or four removals and used it once to see how it would work. Not sure if you have a Autozone or similar nearby but they loan them out for a deposit.



I heated the damper where it goes on the crankshaft to increase the diameter just a hair. I quickly slide it on maybe 1/2 inch until I could use the original bolt to draw the damper in place. You can gently tap it on a little. Dont bang it with a hammer because the crank may beat the thrust bearing. The one in the pic is a OEM brand from Autozone.
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post #6 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-06-2016, 09:45 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks. I can probably rent an installer from Canadian Tire or an auto parts store

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To fix a Ford, a lot of creative thinking is required.
---
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2002 3.3L Dodge Grand Caravan, 164,900km on the clock - work in progress
1995 Peugeot 306 hatchback 1.9L XUD diesel -80,000 miles on veggie oil - sold!
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post #7 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-06-2016, 10:01 PM
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I used that exact OEM brand loaner tool from Autozone when I did timing cover. Would use it again, made it easy. They are available on amazon, etc. but expensive to buy for 1 time use.
The top row of 8 fittings in Automender12345's pic are adapters for different vehicles, you only use one (15mm I think).
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post #8 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-29-2016, 02:00 AM Thread Starter
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So I managed to get the pulley and balancer off, and removed the seal. It looks quite different from the replacement one, it doesn't have the metal jacket:



Unfortunately, I bent the lip trying to prize the seal out, it was such soft metal I initially thought it was part of the seal, because it looked just like my replacement. I managed to bend it back, but I'm now worried that I damaged it and won't get a good seal anymore. This lip seems to be part of the engine block. It was basically at the bottom there as you can see Is this ruined now?



So my next question is, without any instructions from my paines manual or on the seal box, which way round is the new seal supposed to go??
This way:



Or this way??:





I think it should be the first position, but I want to be 100% sure.

If at first you don't succeed, hit it wiv a 'ammer.
To fix a Ford, a lot of creative thinking is required.
---
1995 3.0L Taurus wagon 222,000km on the clock - running and maintained
2002 3.3L Dodge Grand Caravan, 164,900km on the clock - work in progress
1995 Peugeot 306 hatchback 1.9L XUD diesel -80,000 miles on veggie oil - sold!

Last edited by norite; 07-29-2016 at 06:47 PM.
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post #9 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-29-2016, 02:47 AM
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post #10 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-29-2016, 03:00 AM
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It appears to me that you haven't removed the entire old seal.

Are you sure you have the correct part # for the new seal?

The lip you have bent is actually part of the old seal - a round metal 'frame' with the rubber seal bonded to the inside circumference. You separated and removed the rubber part from the metal part.

The part the seal goes into is not the engine block, it is actually the aluminum timing chain cover.

The new seal should be the same size as the metal part still in the timing cover.

Check end of crankshaft for groove worn where the seal makes contact. Could be source of leak.

Last edited by tread; 07-29-2016 at 10:28 AM.
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