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A/C recharge

5K views 33 replies 9 participants last post by  Automender12345 
#1 ·
I bought an AC hose fitting with a gauge at NAPA and attempted to use it to measure my AC low pressure and if needed add some refrigerant.

I can't seem to get the fitting on to the low service port. I have used this same tool on a VW and a Honda in the past with out any issues.

Does the Taurus/Sable have a non standard service fitting? Or is there some nuance to this?
 
#2 ·
How about some information on what your car IS - and updating your profile while you're at it, to show the info?
 
#5 ·
Should be the fitting for the low-side port on or very near the accumulator/dryer unit on the firewall. Don't try using the fitting up front near the condenser, that's the high-side port. On R134a systems the fittings are different to prevent accidentally using the wrong port.
 
#7 ·
It must be me. I have the right port, back near the firewall. I understand that the low port is a smaller fitting than the high port. It looks like it should fit. The other cars were late 90's using the 134A.

I just do not want to force this thing and end up breaking something. It just seems it does not want to press down so that it can catch with any reasonable force.
 
#9 ·
Perhaps your Schrader valve insert is loose in the low-side port, preventing the connection (and it would explain why you need to top off the refrigerant in the first place). You can buy the tool to tighten them at any auto parts place for about $3.
 
#10 ·
This is the tool from NAPA that I am using. It may be a quality issue with the tool fitting. I took a picture but I don't think it gives much justice to the detail. It is not a screw on type fitting. It is a quick disconnect with ball detents that hold it in place.

The tool to tighten the low pressure valve, is that the same tool used on tire valves or similar?

Thanks
 

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#12 ·
:eek:Yes, that will work. Do not overtighten. I don't like those fill units, they are not very accurate. I much prefer to bring this job to someone with the proper manifold, fittings, and associated hardware to do the job right.
 
#11 ·
I'm strongly against using DIY refill kits because it only measures the low side, if there are issues with your high side then you wouldn't know and could easily overfill the system.
This kit is bad since it doesn't have adjustment for the ambient temperature and relies on a wide range, you could overfill the system (or underfill) and not get the desired cooling temperature. Note that the r134a pressure depends on the ambient temperature..
 
#13 ·
I am aware it is not as good as using a manifold gauge that measures both high and low sides. It is not entirely true that this gauge does not adjust for ambient temp. It provides the target low side pressure based on ambient temp in 5 degree increments. It is up to you to read the instructions, to take note of the temp and make the adjustment. But, I am not here too argue the merits of doing it the professional way or the back yard way. I am aware of the pros and cons. thanks for bringing it up but that is not my question.

LGB, it is not a screw on fitting. It snaps on like most quick disconnects. It fits as it is or it does not. There is not way to make it a tighter connection.
 
#14 ·
Head over to your local Harbor Freight store and pick up a real set of 134a manifold gauges so you wil know what is really going on.
 
#17 ·
^^+2
I use Snap-on gauges but acouple of years ag I was visiting a friend in TN that was having A/C trouble went over to HF picked up gauges for @ $40. There are a lot of things I wouldn't recommend getting from HF but the gauges were fine
Their floor jacks are also solid. The 3 ton version is an 80 pound behemoth that has good metallurgy, assembly quality, and function.

But yes, a can is just fine, BUT, get some real manifold gauges for your sake. You absolutely want to know what's going on before just shoving refrigerant in. If your A/C currently works but is just low from age (there's always natural leakage that eventually catches up with older vehicles), then a can will likely be fine. But for an additional $40 you should just make sure.
 
#18 · (Edited)
The car is going on 20 yrs old and this is the first time the AC is not up to par. It blows cool air so I am assuming some freon finally leaked out. I am betting on it being low risk adding some freon with a can and cheap gauge to replenish what leaked out.

I just checked out the HF AC manifold gauge set in my latest mailing flyer and it is priced $59.99. Just an fyi the vac pumps are $99.99. Probably still a good deal considering other options.
 
#19 · (Edited)
this is real story why I hate those refill kits..

my friend called me that his jetta was not cooling really well, temps were around 97 with lots of humidity. I've asked him what he did before and he said that he refilled it several weeks ago and it was really cold. It was colder several weeks ago around in the 80s, so I put in my HF manifold gauge and it's way overcharged, the high side was really high.. so we have to let some out until the high side is in the acceptable range. Doing so made the cabin colder. He threw that piece of garbage to the trash.


HF usually has a sale on July 4th (and other holidays) and they usually cost $49.99, I have mine for 4 yrs now and it's really worth it since I have to fix the AC on my Mountaineer,Jeep and Cougar as well as recharge my friends Honda/Toyota/Jetta and Taurus. same is true with the vacuum pump.

I could tell other DIY AC horror stories, but that's out of this thread..
If it's low on refrigerant and no issues with the AC system those refill kits could work if done properly.
 
#21 ·
OK I have my HF manifold gauge! You guys convinced me it was the better investment. I had to either buy a new cheap fill gauge or I could spend a bit more and have a lot more with the AC manifold gauge set. With the coupon it was $48.

Can anyone give me some guidance on what the high pressure line should read at around 75 degrees?
According to my previous chart the low side should be 35-45 PSI at 75 degrees.

Thanks.
 
#25 ·
Ok. I tested both hi and low for pressure and found the Low at around 28 PSI. The High was around 175 psi.

I added an 11 oz. can of R134A.

The pressure on the low only went up to about 31psi while the high went up to about 190 psi. the outside temp was around 80 F. While adding it there were short periods where the low went as high as 35 and the high up to 205. It was not this smooth and slow escalation.

I did rev the engine a bit to try to get the end of the can sucked out which I think helped.

The dash vent air is now at about 45 degrees F. It was around 55 F before I did this.

I would have expected the Low pressure to be higher. I suspect there is a leak big enough that is preventing this?
The chart provided says the low side gauge should be 40-50 PSI. I am thinking I should wait a bit and see how the AC works over the next week as it is suppose to get very hot. If the pressures stay about the same over this time should I add more R134A?
 
#26 ·
I'd observe it for a week if the pressure remains the same, you could rev it to 1500 rpms to verify the low and high (minimum of at least 40psi at 80F)
Ideal way to put charge is by weight, it involves evacuating the system, i.e discharging out everything, vacuum and then fill by weight. Since your system is old you might not get the ideal pressure, the accumulator might be not be efficient enough to absorb moisture and requires replacement, the orifice tube might be clogged partially (can't attain correct low pressure, causes a vacuum) condenser and evaporator might need cleaning.

if it maintains pressure, I will add more but this time rev it up to 1500 rpms, do it slowly and check the temp. If the high and low side is not going up anymore just stop at that point.
 
#27 ·
You can use the superheat method that I attached a link describing a few posts ago. Measure the inlet and outlet of the freon at the evaporator. Ideally the temp should be the same. If low on charge the outlet will be higher than inlet temp. If they are the same the evap has ample liquid in it and is absorbing the heat when it changes to a gas. You don't want the gas to absorb the heat because it is inefficient use of evap coil space.
 
#31 ·
It is a manual system and I was on the 3rd of 4 blower speed settings.

I was not on max cool as that recirculates the cabin air. I was on the A/C setting that takes in outside air. In theory that should be a greater heat load on the system and more demanding. Right??

I am not sure if both fans were running while I was driving but I did observe them to come on when I was charging the system. The condenser fins are clear. I am not sure how to inspect the evap. with out pulling it.

On my car Is the orifice tube outlet accessible so that I can measure the temps? I did not notice, but on some cars it is on the other side of the firewall or near impossible to easily access.

Automender: Did you measure the inlet and outlet temps with a NON-contact IR thermometer? If not how?
Thanks.
 
#32 ·
It is a manual system and I was on the 3rd of 4 blower speed settings.

I was not on max cool as that recirculates the cabin air. I was on the A/C setting that takes in outside air. In theory that should be a greater heat load on the system and more demanding. Right??

I am not sure if both fans were running while I was driving but I did observe them to come on when I was charging the system. The condenser fins are clear. I am not sure how to inspect the evap. with out pulling it.

On my car Is the orifice tube outlet accessible so that I can measure the temps? I did not notice, but on some cars it is on the other side of the firewall or near impossible to easily access.

Automender: Did you measure the inlet and outlet temps with a NON-contact IR thermometer? If not how?
Thanks.

Max cool with the windows open works fine. With EATC it ensures the system stays on cooling and the auto does not reduce cooling during charging and keeps blower on max speed. Just good paractice.

-chart-
 
#33 ·
Passing this along. My '03 Sable has new compressor and profesional recharge, leak check. It works really nice.

My Lin Cont 14 years old history shows no A/C service before my buy 5 years ago. I have done nothing. It cycles, very cold for a while than seems to taper off to nothing, then back suddenly to really cold. Today at 86F my Sable shows 50# low side, just reference for testing. My Lin showed 41#. I added a whole can of Freon and got it to ~48#. Drove it and no cycling, just continuous cold. All is good.
Just sharin.
-chart-
 
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