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Rochev's 2004 Taurus

5K views 34 replies 15 participants last post by  Fisher_White 
#1 ·
So many miles and memories. Unfortunately it can't be reasonably fixed. The fiber glass around the engine is cracked badly, and radiator support is bent. I was told the subframe shifted a little as well although it drove home fine. 224000 miles and it had so many more to go. I just replaced it with an 04 SEL Duratec. But it's not nearly as nice..full of dents and spray paint from rust repair. Plus it has a death wobble at higher speeds I can't figure out. :( If I sell the SEL I'll go to Virginia to get the same one as my wrecked one, with NO rust.



 
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#2 ·
Save those Sport rims! :eek:
Not too many of those around!!! :)
 
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#4 · (Edited)
It's tough when you lose a long time good runner to an accident. Even though I've only had "Red Bull" for about a month it's already starting to grow on me. I bought it for short money for a commuter and it runs and looks great except for the rust around the rear wheel well which I'll fix this spring. I just got rid of my 95 F150 with over 260k and it was tough. Good luck with the new ride and x2 on looking for a rust free body, makes repairs a lot easier.
 
#7 · (Edited)
Just for anyone else wondering, I rear ended a Jeep. A person crossed the road without looking and I changed the radio station going about 30-35mph and when I looked up, the Jeep wasn't moving. I hit the brakes and the brake line blew causing it to skid into him.

It's very hard. I've never had a car for this long-2 years exactly when I wrecked it!
My mechanic said it's totaled because the fiber glass around the engine bay is snapped everywhere and he also said the subframe shifted. I could get a donor car but it seems to make more sense to buy a rust free one. I had one person interested in fixing it so far. I even bought genuine Centennial headlamps for it before he said it wasn't worth fixing, one is brand new from Ford :(

durasel, if I buy a rust free one, I was planning on swapping my Sport wheels on it. I'd love to keep a part of the car!
 
#10 · (Edited)
A subframe can shift since it is held in place by the four subframe bolts. Possible it moved in the mounts but there is an alignment hole to slide a rod into to realign it, something you do if the subframe is removed for a transmission replacement. It looks repairable to me since the fenders look fine and the condenser and radiator look good. I replaced the radiator core support on my 2006 which I had to remove the fiberglass piece in the front. It was just a lot of screws and bolts to deal with. When my 2001 had a run in with a deer they totaled the car and gave me $3000 and I bought the car back for scrap value of $475. $150 later for a door and fender and a state police inspection, I ended up with a salvage title and a good running car for cheap. However it only had 130k miles on it.

If you do the work yourself it maybe fixable but have a shop do it and forget it. You can take it to a alignment shop ans see if it is really shifted and it it will go back into place.
 
#11 ·
Based on what you've told us, I agree with Automender: I'd 100% look into doing it myself. Hood and bumper cover are plentiful and cheap. Time consuming, but worth it if you like the car IMHO. I've gotten attached to my Bull just like you have yours, and I know how I;d feel if this happened. Why not think about it?
 
#13 ·
Honestly that's superficial damage. Hood, bumper, headlights. Simple. I VERY HIGHLY doubt the subframe shifted like that 'mechanic' said with a 35mph straight hit that nothing hit the wheels, unless the subframe was loose to begin with, or the bolts were so far gone that sneezing on them would have snapped them.

What "fiberglass all around the engine" is he talking about? The bumper support? That's a cheap JY part. The core support is metal. Your "mechanic" is looking at full cost from an insurance adjuster to do a 100% perfect repair, yes that would be a total. Go to a u-pull it yard, pull the parts, replace them and keep trucking. Let me guess....... the "mechanic" also gave you an offer to purchase the car? He knows he'd be able to repair it and sell it for a profit.
 
#14 ·
what I like about the taurus is that there's a sea of parts lying around in the junk yards (or even craigslists)
i bought one (2002) from a shop dirt cheap and have it fixed for less than $200.
my new project, a 2004 is underway..got the bumper, hood, fender and doors for 50% off this weekend ($120)

this is my 4th taurus (my first was a 89 sable, then a 97 taurus, then a 2002 and a 2004 taurus)


https://www.facebook.com/diyfordtaurus/
 
#15 ·
Thanks guys, I was on FB and I was persuaded to fix it! It'll cost less than $600. A new one from the south (has to be Duratec and 04-05 too) will be about $2000. I should get at least another year out of it, maybe more if I fix the rust this summer. It won't be driven as much either. Needs hood, grille and bumper assy for cosmetics. The semi-local JY has two '05's same color and will pull it all for $200, and less if I do it. :)

He did say the subframe shifted but I feel like I would have noticed that driving it home. It didn't vibrate, or wander. It pulled when I was on the brakes but I believe that was from the blown brake line.
Friday I'm going to rent a cargo van and haul the parts from the JY and hopefully work on it this weekend. Unless it's -5 degrees again. Figures it's going to be 50 during the week :lol:
 
#16 ·
Thanks guys, I was on FB and I was persuaded to fix it! It'll cost less than $600. A new one from the south (has to be Duratec and 04-05 too) will be about $2000. I should get at least another year out of it, maybe more if I fix the rust this summer. It won't be driven as much either. Needs hood, grille and bumper assy for cosmetics. The semi-local JY has two '05's same color and will pull it all for $200, and less if I do it. :)
:lol:
Awesome! The car lives on :D I like that your local JY has panels in the same color.....that's a lot of hassle and $$ saved right there. Same this happened to me when I had to replace the bumper and fender on mine.

Keep us updated!!
 
#21 ·
The brake line that blew is at the junction where they all meet by the LF wheel. He said he'd rather replace all the lines instead of that one because the other rotted lines will end up blowing. It'll be $400. Compared to the $1200 I just spent on the other one that needs $800 in work, that's not bad.
 
#22 ·
I have auto body experience - and this does notlook to me like has anywhere near the impact that would cause any frame damage -- I can't see it even affecting alignment cant see all the damage but appears to be nearly all cosmetic (except for head lights
I were me fix lights - replace hood get so that latches - on the fiberglass rad support maybe work to use fiberglass patches (fiberglass resin and fiberglass cloth) the fact the fenders were not even affected makes it seem to be minor
...If you want to make sure - do what another suggested and take to alignment shop ... tho doingis really only viable if you do the work yourself
 
#24 ·
Heck if the rad support popped outa place, loosen the bolts and let it snap back into place. New bumper cover, new hood. New lights. And enjoy. You're lucky you didn't blow the driver airbag.
 
#25 · (Edited)
I finally fixed it! Luckily it was in the lower 50's so I could even do it outside. I rented a Uhaul van and drove a total of 5 hours Saturday to get these parts from a JY. I'm at $800 to fix it. It would have been cheaper had I not gotten OEM Centennials. Here's the photos I took during the 4 hour job on Sunday.

Here's the donor car I got everything but the headlights from



Hood off!

This is all I had to remove the corner screw in the bumper. This took the most time.


Had to keep my hood latch which was actually the hardest part to take off and put back.
Here's how much everything shifted



New hood on

New fiber glass




Brand new from Fords old stock Driver's side Centennial (used passenger side)


 
#26 ·
I want this JY writing off but haven't had any luck, not even scraping it. The hood and bumper aren't in the best shape so I'd at least like the writing gone :lol:



You can kind of see the bigger gap between the hood and fender on the passenger side. The back of the hood is opposite of these photos, so it's a little twisted. Other than that I'm happy with it.
 
#30 ·
Rubbing and polishing compound have taken those off for me when I bought JY parts. Personally I would buff (rubbing compound) and polish (polishing compound) the entire hood, bumper and fenders by hand to attempt to blend in the scratches/wear better. But other than that the car looks like new! Back on the road! :)
 
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