Fuel tank and fuel pump R&R - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-24-2013, 09:48 PM Thread Starter
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Fuel tank and fuel pump R&R

I am sizing up the job to replace my fuel tank and fuel pump. I have never done this before but have read many of the post. I am fairly comfortable with what is ahead of me but I have a few questions that came up as I look over the new parts.

I just got my new fuel tank and it doesnot have the rubber pads the OEM tank has and the rubber gromet for the emmission hose is not present. Hole on far left in picture.

My questions about the tank are:

1. Are the rubber pads unnessesary? Do they add any value?
2. If yes, Is it worth trying to remove the pads off of the OEM and glue them on the new tank?
3. Can I easily remove, without damaging and reuse said grommet? What have others done?


My new fuel pump assembley does not come with the sending unit. I am not sure how the sending unit is assembled to the pump assy. I am sure this will be obvious when I remove the OEM pump assy from the tank. But I like to know what to expect upfront. I see an unused wire on the new assembly. I assume it goes to the sending unit. I also see a ground terminal on the inside top of the steel cover. I assume the sending unit is grounded there to complete the circuit.

It is not clear to me how the sending unit attaches to the pump assembly. I don't see any tapped holes or even thru holes for it to attach. I see one small hole at the bottom of the plastic housing. I assume the float shaft goes there. Can someone give me some insight to how this unit will transfer from the old to the new assembly. A picture is worth 1000 words. Thanks.

See pics of what I have for clarity.
Thanks again.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-24-2013, 10:14 PM
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I would try to swap over the rubber pads. They act as a cushion so the fuel tank isn't rubbing against the body once installed.

Yes, you have to try to swap over the tank vent grommet. Unfortunately they like to break easily and replacements are expensive, so you might consider reusing your existing tank. Remember the tank has to be air tight when you're done. Otherwise you will be dropping it again to fix EVAP codes.

You'll have to take a look at your fuel pump sending unit when you get it out. Black/yellow wire runs from the sending unit back to the fuse panel (and then to a ground).
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-24-2013, 11:25 PM
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DId you get the part of the fuel pump assembly that seals the large hole of the tank? That portion should have the whole sender unit attached. You have a strange replacement part, usually they just give you a bear bones pump and you have to splice the wires. You can always go to the parts store and see a complete assembly. The hole in the bottom is for the inlet strainer attachment. THe sender unit doesn't use a rod in an up down motion it uses a arm with a swiping motion.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-26-2013, 05:25 PM Thread Starter
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The strainer is on the far side in that picture so it is out of sight. I just uploaded a pic that shows more of the assembly

I assume the expensive rubber grommet on the tank, is a dealer only item? I have never seen one on an online cataloge. Can anyone confirm?

I am still looking for a picture of a Complete Ford assembly showing the sending unit for the 96 DOHC so I can get an idea of how it attaches and if I have to cut and splice wires , or not.

Thanks
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-26-2013, 06:02 PM
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You should be able to buy the o-ring anywhere.

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-26-2013, 10:24 PM Thread Starter
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Bull Geek, the o-ring came with the assembly. What I am asking about is the rubber tank vent grommet that the emissions hose snaps into. A new one did not come with the new tank. I am going to try to transfer the old one over. Behilina suggests that this may be difficult with out compromising it's sealing ability. Hence, I want to think about a contingency plan should I need one. I suppose i could put gasket RTV around it??? Any thoughts on that?

I found this picture on Yahoo images. It is from a 98 taurus OHV. I assume it is close enough to my 96 with DOHC. It gives a good view of the Ford sender assembly mounted on the pump assembly.

It looks like the metal backing plate clips in to a slot on the top of the plastic unit and a self tapping screw goes into the small blind hole at the bottom to secure it.

The yellow/black wire goes into a terminal on the left top of the sender. There is also a solid yellow wire that appears to goes into the sender unit. Not clear exactly where it goes or what it is for.
Am I going to have to splice this yellow wire?
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-27-2013, 01:54 AM
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Look at the wires passing through the metal disk on your new unit. There should be four wires. Two go to the pump motor, and the other two are for the sender. You can see the black/yellow wire hanging out which connects to the sender's metal backplate. The other sender wire is attached to the sender and plugs into a connector further up the wiring harness inside the tank. I think that connector is just hidden from you, so pull the back the black sheath around the wires and I think you'll find it. You can see the brown connector where the yellow/white wire connects better in this picture (look near beverage bottle right under metal disk):

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-27-2013, 11:34 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks and yes there are 4 total wires coming in. On my Bosch replacement 2 clearly go to the pump.
The Black Yellow wire (shown hanging my picture) is coming out of the bulkhead fitting on the top plate and has a female spade connector on the hangin end. It now seems clear where it should plug into the Ford sender.

The 4th wire is a yellow wire coming into the top plate and ends at a male spade terminal on the bottom side of the top plate(not shown). NO yellow WIRE under the top plate. I can only assume the yellow wire will be reused from the original sending unit in my tank. It will either plug directly to the spade terminal on the top cover or I will have to cut and crimp on the correct mating connector to complete the wiring. I now think this makes perfect sence. But that doesnot mean it will be that way.

Now should I get a new vent grommet from the dealer to be safe? Will RTV be good enough to tighten up the seal should it have some damage coming out.?

Thanks, you guys are great.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-27-2013, 03:35 PM
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RTV will not stand up to gas. I believe it will soften and break up. You should google it
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-27-2013, 10:09 PM
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Yes, the yellow wire stays connected to the sending unit and will plug into the terminal under the cover.

Don't use RTV on anything near the fuel tank. There might be some other kind of gasket maker or sealant that is resistant to gas or gas fumes, so you will have to read the tubes carefully.
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