2011 Ford Taurus Heat Issue - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-25-2013, 08:38 AM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Chapter: Northeast
Posts: 14
Rep Power: 0
 
Trader Score: 0 reviews
Question 2011 Ford Taurus Heat Issue

I have a 2011 Ford Taurus with 32k miles. I'm having a problem with the heater where when I accellerate I can feel the heat come on strong and when I come to a idle the heat turns to cold. If I drive on the freeway I get contastant heat until I come to a stop at the off ramp then the heat turns noticeably colder.

Just had the car at dealer and the following was reported:
* Coolant Reservoir showing proper coolant level and is Green
* Temp at block was showing that the thermostat was opening
* Temp Gauge in Car remains in middle. No fluctation
* No visible leaks around water pump
* Oil shows no signs of coolant contamination on dipstick
* Upper Radiator hose is hot
* Lower Radiator hose is cold
* Upper Hose at firewall going to Heater Core is warm
* Lower Radiator hose is hose at firwall going into Heater Core is hot.

Was advised by Tech that this is normal behavior and that there wasn't anything he could do. Was told he would contact Ford for any possible solutions.

Figured I would post this issue here to see if anyone else had similiar issue and what they did to fix it.

Any help would be appreciated as my other Ford puts out hot air regardless if I'm sitting idle or on the freeway. Literally no difference
HOGSONTHEROAD is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-25-2013, 05:51 PM
Technical Advisor
 
behlinla's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Wisconsin
Chapter: Midwest
Posts: 7,539
Rep Power: 84
      
Trader Score: 0 reviews
If the coolant was in good shape and the heater core was not clogged it might possibly be the water pump. Unfortunately the water pump on the 3.5 is like the biggest PIA ever to replace because it's timing chain driven and located in the V of the engine. It will take the dealer several DAYS of labor to change it.

FYI, your car has a special green coolant that is different than the traditional green coolant found in parts stores. If it's a later build it has orange DEXCOOL. If someone added regular silicate coolant (like green Prestone) you might have big problems with gelling creating clogs.
behlinla is offline  
post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-25-2013, 06:28 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Chapter: Northeast
Posts: 14
Rep Power: 0
 
Trader Score: 0 reviews
I did see the water pump and noticed no belt going to it so that would explain that its timing chain driven. Why Ford would do this kinda setup is beyond me. I had the car at dealer and they checked coolant and didnt say anything about it needing to be orange. We are the second owners. Not sure what the prior owners did.

Would hate to spend a ton of money on water pump only to find out it didnt solve the issue. Not sure what to do. Dealer says that behavior is normal. Maybe i should just accept it.
HOGSONTHEROAD is offline  
post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-25-2013, 06:32 PM
Sam
breeves002

 
Sam's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: St. Louis, MO
Chapter: Midwest
Year: 2008
Model: Mercury Sable
Engine: 3.5L Ti-VCT V6
Posts: 6,556
Rep Power: 93
       
Garage
Trader Score: 8 reviews
2011 Ford Taurus Heat Issue

That behavior is not normal. The dealer fed you a load. Heat should stay hot as long as the coolant is hot. It does sound like a water pump to me assuming the core isn't clogged or the system isn't clogged somewhere.

Don't ignore it, it could lead to bigger problems in the future. You should have it drained and flushed with distilled water then refill it with the proper coolant.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App

Sam

GET YOUR 2015 TCCA SHIRT HERE:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


2008 Mercury Sable Premier
2014 Ford Focus Electric
1997 Mercury Grand Marquis GS
1991 BMW 850i E31 M70 V12
Moved On: 2000 Sable LS Premium Duratec
Sam is offline  
post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-25-2013, 06:46 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Chapter: Northeast
Posts: 14
Rep Power: 0
 
Trader Score: 0 reviews
All i can do is call dealer to see if they heard back from ford.
If they say its normal i can take it to another dealer but this is a pain in the ass.especially with a vehicle under warranty. I had a truck that the dealer gave me a run around on and was traded in a month later.

I will get tooint that i will never buy american again. Quality is just not there
HOGSONTHEROAD is offline  
post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-25-2013, 06:50 PM
Technical Advisor
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Blythewood, SC 29016
Chapter: Southeast
Posts: 17,405
Rep Power: 102
     
Trader Score: 7 reviews
Send a message via AIM to bull geek Send a message via MSN to bull geek
YOu rarely if ever hear about cooling issues on the NA 3.5L The EB 3.5s I know have maybe a thing or two going on...but not on the 3.5s. The 2010+ have been super solid, well built cars. It's Ford's flagship sedan.

Remember you have a 3 year / 36,000 warranty. You also have a 5 yr/75,000 mile powertrane warranty. Use it. Where are you located and what dealer are you going to?

--Nick
-'66 Ford Country Squire wagon 390/C6
-'87 & '89 Mercury Colony Park wagons 302 EFI/AOD
-'90 Lincoln Town Car 302 EFI/AOD
-'03 Lincoln Town Car 4.6L/4R70W

former '87 Taurus 3.0 GL sedan, '87 Taurus 3.0 GL Wagon, '97 Taurus SHO 3.4 V8 sedan, '00 Taurus SEL 3.0 24V
bull geek is offline  
post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-25-2013, 07:32 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Chapter: Northeast
Posts: 14
Rep Power: 0
 
Trader Score: 0 reviews
Im in northeastern ohio. Took it to millinax ford.east. i know its still under warranty but if the dealer wont do anything about it im at a lost unless i pay for things getting replaced under warranty.
HOGSONTHEROAD is offline  
post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-25-2013, 07:59 PM
Technical Advisor
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Blythewood, SC 29016
Chapter: Southeast
Posts: 17,405
Rep Power: 102
     
Trader Score: 7 reviews
Send a message via AIM to bull geek Send a message via MSN to bull geek
I've been on the Mullinax Canton lot before, haven't been to that one. Doesn't have many reviews. You may want to see if you can bring the car in to a different dealer in the area. The Mullinax East guys may not be up to the task apparently...

May try a different Ford dealer in town. See if you get better help. You really want to address cooling system issues before the summer. Worst case, lemon law.

--Nick
-'66 Ford Country Squire wagon 390/C6
-'87 & '89 Mercury Colony Park wagons 302 EFI/AOD
-'90 Lincoln Town Car 302 EFI/AOD
-'03 Lincoln Town Car 4.6L/4R70W

former '87 Taurus 3.0 GL sedan, '87 Taurus 3.0 GL Wagon, '97 Taurus SHO 3.4 V8 sedan, '00 Taurus SEL 3.0 24V
bull geek is offline  
post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-25-2013, 08:17 PM
Technical Advisor
 
behlinla's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Wisconsin
Chapter: Midwest
Posts: 7,539
Rep Power: 84
      
Trader Score: 0 reviews
While I agree water pump problems on the 3.5L are relatively rare, they do happen. I think the earlier models (2007-2009) have a slightly higher failure rate though.

Either way, the dealer probably recognizes changing the water pump is a major PIA and they might be trying to duck out of having to do the job. So keep that in mind.

If you want you can run your own tests to confirm. Drive your car for 20+ minutes to get it fully warmed up, then restart it in ETM (hold the reset button while starting the car, keep holding it until the cluster display changes). Keep pressing reset until you get to the coolant temp display. Now just sit there and let the engine idle for 10-20 minutes. As the temp climbs, you might hear the cooling fans kick in. The cooling fans should be able to keep the temp below 105C, but if you see it start climbing past 107C and the fans are running full blast it's a good indication you have a cooling issue. If you reach 110C you need to abort the test and get the car moving up to 40 MPH so you can cool it off!

Continuing with the test, now hold the engine at 2000 RPM in park and watch what happens to the temperature (record if it goes up or down first). If the coolant temp drops more than about 10C it's a good indication that the water pump isn't moving enough coolant.

You can exit ETM by shutting the car off or by holding reset again to exit.

Record the numbers and report back with what you find. If you want you can record a video of the test for us or as evidence.

If you do have a water pump problem, you will know for sure come summer!
behlinla is offline  
post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-25-2013, 09:13 PM
I don't do 'please help'
 
The White Falcon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Provo, Utah
Chapter: West Coast
Posts: 11,601
Rep Power: 60
   
Trader Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by HOGSONTHEROAD View Post
I will get tooint that i will never buy american again. Quality is just not there
I don't think it's the fact that its a Ford that it's an issue. It could be a maintenance issue, or the supplier on the water pump had a bad batch. Despite what people tell you, Japanese cars have problems too. How else do you explain why my parents Odyssey had three bad catalytic converters within a year and a half, with less than 100k? Not to mention Toyota's like to take you places you don't necessarily want to go.

Now, it does sound like your dealer stinks. But that's not the cars fault either.

Bradley.
Holly: 2003 Taurus SES Deluxe, Duratec, spoiler, moonroof, OEM Centennials, JBL Audio system, other enhancements. April '14 COTM winner.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

See more details
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
.

The right man in the wrong place can make all the difference in the world...
The White Falcon is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome