97 LX Brake Light Switch Connector

[MikeF12]

Had the common problem, couldn't shift out of park after starting, etc.

Discovered the probable cause - a broken wire running into the brake light switch connector. Problem is, I haven't got a clue how to fix it. Can't find a replacement connector - even on E-bay, even on clipsandfasteners.com. And the wire is broken off flush with the point of join inside the little hole on the connector. So I can splice a piece of wire on to the broken end, but then how to I re-attach it to the connector? Any ideas welcome.

(Also, I am trending toward ancient, so a lot of time in the foot well is not a day at the beach.)

Thanks!
Mike

[noluck4]

The little spade connectors at the autoparts store or walmart work. I used them on a 97 GL. I also replaced the switch as it was just gross. Remove some insulation, put the wire in, crimp, and viola you got brake lights and can shift into drive. The ones similar to these work wonders and cheaper than the ford part.
Dorman Conduct-Tite! 85471 - Spade Terminals | O'Reilly Auto Parts

These also work for wire to wire. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...ord=but+splice Personally I solder them, but thats tough to do under a dash with little light.

You can get both at Walmart too.

OR if you want the connector http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...%2BS6031&rpl=1

[las59]

Is this the connector you are lookong for, link:

Motorcraft WPT 210 Electrical Connector Brake | eBay

[noluck4]

The WPT 20 is for the interlock solenoid. If I remember correctly thats the solenoid that unlocks the ability to shift after the brake pedal is pressed. If its the BOO Switch like this pic you are looking after the spade teminals work and cheaper since the connector is just spade terminals in a plastic case.

[MikeF12]

Originally Posted by noluck4

The WPT 20 is for the interlock solenoid. If I remember correctly thats the solenoid that unlocks the ability to shift after the brake pedal is pressed. If its the BOO Switch like this pic you are looking after the spade teminals work and cheaper since the connector is just spade terminals in a plastic case.

Thanks, guys, you know your stuff. Great pic. Seems like just the spade connectors are the way to go. What size did you use? The options seem to be 16-14 gauge and 22-18 gauge - with the spade terminal a quarter inch?

Thanks a million.

Mike

[noluck4]

Honestly I can't remeber sizes but I believe it is 16 gauge with quarter inch. But I might be wrong.

[MikeF12]

Originally Posted by noluck4

Honestly I can't remeber sizes but I believe it is 16 gauge with quarter inch. But I might be wrong.

Turns out they are indeed 16-14 gauge/quarter inch. I went with your suggestion. The original wires were too short, so I had to splice a couple leads in. I was a little sloppy on one of them but it worked.

I'm part of the Medicare set with optional herniated disks, so lying in the footwell was worse than a day at the beach in a hurricane. Still feeling the pain.

But, as noted, it worked. Thanks much for the advice!

Mike

[noluck4]

Anytime. I'm glad to hear it worked out.