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Old 02-11-2013, 01:34 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default IAC Part number wrong?

I've been dealing with an idle that takes a while to go down on cold starts. One change that was made was the IAC. The problem was there before the change, and was replaced due to a stuck throttle that it cured.

I have discovered the original IAC is a diffrent part number than what I find online. Mine is a 2k46b2 1f1e 9f715 aa which part stores list as for a 2003 Ford Ranger Edge V6 - 3.0L vin U 182ci - MFI GAS OHV. Is this IAC compatable with the Yf1e-9f715-Aa?

I notice the BWD part numbers are diffrent as well.
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Old 02-11-2013, 02:38 AM   #2 (permalink)
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The IAC parts are different depending on whether you have the OHV or DOHC engine.

The correct BWD part# for the OHV engine is 31067. I think YF1E-9F715-AA is the correct Motorcraft part #. 1F1E-9F715-AA is probably a duplicate part number (usually you're fine as long as everything after the first two digits matches).
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Old 02-11-2013, 09:04 AM   #3 (permalink)
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After replacing the IAC & the engine fully cooled off, did you perform the cold & warm idle strategy relearn routine???? If not, maybe consider trying this relearn proceedure & see if it helps. http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/1358165-post4.html
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Old 02-11-2013, 10:39 AM   #4 (permalink)
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The "part numbers" on Ford parts arent the part number, they are the engineering numbers. A GOOD dealer parts guy willing to help you (if such a thing exists any more) can cross index the engineering number on a part and tell you the correct part number.
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Old 02-11-2013, 12:03 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Did the relearn strategy. It didn't help. I did it twice and the problems still there. TPS tests at 98 volts. TB has been cleaned as well as the MAF. The one hunch I am going to try before ordering expensive parts like a MAF or IAC is a new thermostat. What data should I log to help catch whatever is happening?

I am used to a whole different part numbering scheme from the car company I indirectly work for, and wanted to make sure. Thank you all.

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Old 02-11-2013, 09:13 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by noluck4 View Post
TPS tests at 98 volts.
I hope you meant 0.98 volts with the throttle closed.

If the thermostat was bad, then you would notice an unusual coolant temp. Fully warmed up the coolant temp should be about 190F.

What IAC do you have on there now? Brand+Part number?
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Old 02-12-2013, 03:09 AM   #7 (permalink)
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yeah .98 volts my bad. Fully warm it's about that temp. But it takes a while to get there. The other taurus I somtimes drive will be somewhat warm by the time I get around the block. This one- I'll be doing a few laps to get there. It does have good heat, but its comfortable. I don't have to shut it off on hot to get comfy.

The one I got on it is a BWD 31067. I replaced the seal with the IAC.

It will NOT start with the IAC unplugged. And fully warm if you unplug it with it running the idle drops and it stutters just a hair but does not die.
Fully warm the idle is fine, you can let it sit for 45 minutes, come back and start it and you'd think I was nuts.

I did email the nearest ford dealership (my one in town I don't frequent as they charge markup and then some for parts and are pretty old school). They said "The one that is available is the 4f1e 9f715 aa, which is an updated part number only for the 2001-2007 taurus vin code, this is the direct replacement for the 1f1e 9f715 aa, My catalog does not show the yf1e 9f715 aa as a valid number for this taurus"

Somthing says get that motorcraft IAC. I checked again for vaccume leaks. My car doesnt have the sticker with the hose diagram on it sadly but I sprayed around the UIM, EGR, and throttle body and air filter areas.

I wonder if this is related. When I got my obdlinkSX I did do a scan before I did an oil change since the mechanic put 10w30 in it and the same crappy filter the dealership I got it at had on it. It was doing the oil light flicker again and I checked the RPM when it would do it. Sure enough the RPM's were below 600when the light would flicker. With 5w20 it gets to the low hot idle but doesn't flicker and sure as heck don't stay there long. Suddenly that problem made perfect sense. Mechanic did look at the bearings when he had the oil pan off. He didn't notice anything obvious with them.
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Old 02-12-2013, 05:11 AM   #8 (permalink)
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If the gasket supplied with the BWD IAC was different than the original, you might have a leak. Try pressing down on the IAC and seeing if the idle changes.

With the car fully warmed up and all excess loads turned off (A/C, headlights, etc), unplugging the IAC should result in a very low idle speed (like 500 RPM) or the engine might stall. If the engine is still idling in the 600-700 RPM range, then you have a vacuum leak or the throttle is sticking open too far.
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Old 02-12-2013, 12:08 PM   #9 (permalink)
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That is about what it does when it's unplugged fully warm. Does this sound like a MAF sensor issue?

How would one test the coolant temp sensor?

Last edited by noluck4; 02-12-2013 at 02:29 PM.
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Old 02-12-2013, 08:27 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noluck4 View Post
That is about what it does when it's unplugged fully warm. Does this sound like a MAF sensor issue?
Which one? 500 RPM or 600-700 RPM idle?

Bad MAF doesn't usually cause surging, but hard to say without scan data.

You can test coolant temp by monitoring the coolant temp PID with a scan tool. You can then cross reference it to a reading taken by another thermometer (like an IR temp gun) at the thermostat housing.
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