yeah .98 volts my bad. Fully warm it's about that temp. But it takes a while to get there. The other taurus I somtimes drive will be somewhat warm by the time I get around the block. This one- I'll be doing a few laps to get there. It does have good heat, but its comfortable. I don't have to shut it off on hot to get comfy.
The one I got on it is a BWD 31067. I replaced the seal with the IAC
It will NOT start with the IAC
unplugged. And fully warm if you unplug it with it running the idle drops and it stutters just a hair but does not die.
Fully warm the idle is fine, you can let it sit for 45 minutes, come back and start it and you'd think I was nuts.
I did email the nearest ford dealership (my one in town I don't frequent as they charge markup and then some for parts and are pretty old school). They said "The one that is available is the 4f1e 9f715 aa, which is an updated part number only for the 2001-2007 taurus vin
code, this is the direct replacement for the 1f1e 9f715 aa, My catalog does not show the yf1e 9f715 aa as a valid number for this taurus"
Somthing says get that motorcraft IAC
. I checked again for vaccume leaks. My car doesnt have the sticker with the hose diagram on it sadly but I sprayed around the UIM
, and throttle body and air filter areas.
I wonder if this is related. When I got my obdlinkSX I did do a scan before I did an oil change since the mechanic put 10w30 in it and the same crappy filter the dealership I got it at had on it. It was doing the oil light flicker again and I checked the RPM
when it would do it. Sure enough the RPM's were below 600when the light would flicker. With 5w20 it gets to the low hot idle but doesn't flicker and sure as heck don't stay there long. Suddenly that problem made perfect sense. Mechanic did look at the bearings when he had the oil pan off. He didn't notice anything obvious with them.