Metal Coolant Lines Leaking 87 3.0 - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
 
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 02-03-2013, 07:13 AM Thread Starter
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Metal Coolant Lines Leaking 87 3.0

I have been having loss of coolant issues in the 87 3.0L wagon for the past 6-9 months. After driving 500 miles or so, the car goes from the cold fill line on the container down to empty.

The car has all new heater hoses all over (replaced all of them), radiator, heater core, thermostat, timing cover gasket, and a new aftermarket (not a reman aftermarket) water pump.

So last time it was humid outside and at night, I got my flashlight out and looked around. I found that I have 3 or 4 leaks going on.

1) Somewhere between the water pump and the timing cover is pooling coolant right under the U hose that goes between the pump outlet and one of the metal lines near the passenger strut tower

2) Two places on the hard metal lines that run behind the UIM (1 pretty bad, 1 minor) are leaking out coolant

I may just check bolt tightness on the water pump and make sure hoses are tight. But for the metal coolant lines that have rusted through are leaking what do I do?

There's a 88 3.0L Sable in a yard about 90 miles away that has the replacement from Ford, as it has a manufacture tag from the early 2000s w/the Ford part number. Is that worth getting or is there some kind of replacement I can make?

--Nick
-'66 Ford Country Squire wagon 390/C6
-'87 & '89 Mercury Colony Park wagons 302 EFI/AOD
-'90 Lincoln Town Car 302 EFI/AOD
-'03 Lincoln Town Car 4.6L/4R70W

former '87 Taurus 3.0 GL sedan, '87 Taurus 3.0 GL Wagon, '97 Taurus SHO 3.4 V8 sedan, '00 Taurus SEL 3.0 24V
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 02-03-2013, 09:36 AM
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Hello Nick.
The wagon developed a coolant leak between the timing cover and block before my trip to Atlanta last week. I tightened up the bolts and made it worse. My go or blow attitude at the time made me do it, I would never use a bandaid additive otherwise. Leak stopped and she is still holding all her coolant under pressure. I will repair the problem as soon as possible but all is good right now. About 800 miles since and still have great heat and no overheating issues. It's a liquid not powder or BBs. Just don't forget to repair it later.


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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 02-03-2013, 12:45 PM
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Nick, I would replace those metal lines with heater hose and zip tie them up and out of the way of the exhaust manifold, etc. Could also put the new heater hose in some heat resistant sheathing.

05 Taurus SEL Duratec - my daily driver
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 02-03-2013, 03:42 PM
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Agree with Jeff K. That's what I did a bit over a year ago when I had the timing cover gasket replaced. The rubber-and-steel-line coolant assembly and heater-core takeoff was gonzo, perforated like Swiss cheese. Just replaced everything with rubber hose, new clamps and (Gen1, anyhow) a new Y-fitting just for good measure. No leaks for a year now. (That's the wagon I drove up from Fort Myers to Savannah to meet you, last November.)

Every day I can wake up and complain how much it hurts to get out of bed, now...is a darned good one!

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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 02-04-2013, 05:32 PM Thread Starter
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Heater hose replacement it is. Adios metal lines!
I guess things do rust down south after a quarter of a century.

--Nick
-'66 Ford Country Squire wagon 390/C6
-'87 & '89 Mercury Colony Park wagons 302 EFI/AOD
-'90 Lincoln Town Car 302 EFI/AOD
-'03 Lincoln Town Car 4.6L/4R70W

former '87 Taurus 3.0 GL sedan, '87 Taurus 3.0 GL Wagon, '97 Taurus SHO 3.4 V8 sedan, '00 Taurus SEL 3.0 24V
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