Car runs rough when the engine is cold - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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post #1 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-22-2013, 06:00 PM Thread Starter
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Car runs rough when the engine is cold

Hello,

It is very cold outside -8!

When I started the car and drove through the road, I can feel the car run rough. When I pressed the gas pedal, the car responses very slowly and I can also hear some noise(belt?).

The issue goes away when the engine is back to warm. So when the temperature gauge points to normal, the car runs smoothly and I don't hear any noise any more.

My car has recently been replaced the timing-cover so I assume all my pulley and tensioner are fine otherwise the shop will let me know already.
Also the serpentine belt was replaced in Ford dealership two years ago and since then I have run less than 20K.

Is this a problem? Should I always preheat my car before I start to drive it?

This is 2000 Taurus SE Vulcan with 140K miles.

Thank you

Last edited by q0987; 01-22-2013 at 06:02 PM.
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post #2 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-22-2013, 07:02 PM
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Might have a dirty idle air control or a loose vacuum hose near the manifold. Can you watch the belt and pulleys to make sure they are moving smoothly?? I recommend opening the hood and getting out after starting to try and isolate the problem. I have no clue without really being there. Clean the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner. Basic look around, check wires to plugs and coil. Any codes or check engine light??
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post #3 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-22-2013, 07:17 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by downhill View Post
Might have a dirty idle air control or a loose vacuum hose near the manifold. Can you watch the belt and pulleys to make sure they are moving smoothly?? I recommend opening the hood and getting out after starting to try and isolate the problem. I have no clue without really being there. Clean the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner. Basic look around, check wires to plugs and coil. Any codes or check engine light??
on 07/01/2009, I had a shop replac all the following items with mileage of 118K miles.

1> 0319CQ FLAT Spark Plugs 5 X $ 5.32
2> 4039CQ Ignition wires $82
3> 0347CQ P.C.V. Valve $5.78
4> 15472CQ Mass Air Flow Sensor $183.73

Now the car has 140908 miles on it.

I replaced P.C.V + grommet several weeks ago.

Last edited by q0987; 01-22-2013 at 09:50 PM.
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post #4 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-23-2013, 12:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by q0987 View Post
1> 0319CQ FLAT Spark Plugs 5 X $ 5.32
^ Is that a mistake? You have 6 spark plugs, so if this is right it might mean they were lazy and didn't change one. The hardest one to get to is #3, so that's the first one I would check. Also, the description doesn't tell me much, but if they used copper plugs they might have to be changed again.

If this was the same guy that wrapped electrical tape around the PCV valve, I would be a little skeptical of his work.
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post #5 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-23-2013, 08:57 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by behlinla View Post
^ Is that a mistake? You have 6 spark plugs, so if this is right it might mean they were lazy and didn't change one. The hardest one to get to is #3, so that's the first one I would check. Also, the description doesn't tell me much, but if they used copper plugs they might have to be changed again.

If this was the same guy that wrapped electrical tape around the PCV valve, I would be a little skeptical of his work.
Sorry, my typo, it should be 6X spark plugs and I am not sure what kinds of plug he used. Yes, this is the same guy who changed my pcv at that time. That shop charges $80/hour.

The current shop I went frequently charges $115/hour similar as Ford dealership.

I will go to AutoZone during the weekend and see whether I got any new code otherwise I will clear the code and wait for the code coming back. So far no CEL.

The car runs fine this morning since I parked it inside the garage. Not really sure what the problem is since most of time MAF is the problem but I just replaced 22K ago. Hopefully, I don't have to pay another huge bill to fix the car and I only drive less than 6 miles per day

Will update later.

THx
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post #6 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-23-2013, 02:20 PM
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What oil weight are you using?

2000 Duratec SE White Wagon
<span style="font-family:Optima">Voom: FPS X-Cal2
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post #7 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-23-2013, 05:47 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by crackhead View Post
What oil weight are you using?
5W-30 by the local shop.

Here is the update!

Just came back from autozone, the staff surprises me.

First, he said my car has NO codes.
I remembered that I have P0153 (O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response)
P0153 (O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response)

Second, he said even if the car has codes, he cannot clear for me b/c the law of IL. I thought that I need to clear the code to pinpoint the real problems .

Question 1> Can disconnecting the battery remove the CEL codes?
Mr. byrondumas helped me to fix the battery cables and we have to disconnect the battery terminals at that time.

Question 2> I recently replaced PCV+Grommet b/c of oil leaking from the PCV+Grommet. Can that help fix the P0153 or the system is still lazy and cannot set the codes yet.

Question 3> What kinds of good scanner you guys use to read the codes which can also provide the information such as follows:

Long term fuel trim
Short term fuel trim
O2 Sensor Voltage(B1S1)
O2 Sensor (Post-Catalyst)

Or where I can rent the tool since autozone cannot read the detail information for me?

Thank you
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post #8 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-23-2013, 09:22 PM
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There are many good scanners out there. Amazon has many that have that functionality. Just search "scan tool".

If you have an android phone or tablet you can get torque and a bluetooth OBD-II adaptor for under $20 total.

Why do you need to remove the codes? That shouldn't change much. If you remove the batt cable your misfire monitor will go away and you won't know if it is misfiring right away.

That code usually means you need to replace the O2 sensor, right? I don't see how the PCV could fix that. Is your PCV valve clogged?

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post #9 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-23-2013, 09:57 PM
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I had that problem that slowly progressed, turned out (same engine) there was a vac hose running from pcv under the intake manifold to the maf other side that was bad-check itout 2 inch hose thats not seen due to its location
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post #10 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-23-2013, 09:58 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Breeves002 View Post
There are many good scanners out there. Amazon has many that have that functionality. Just search "scan tool".

If you have an android phone or tablet you can get torque and a bluetooth OBD-II adaptor for under $20 total.

Why do you need to remove the codes? That shouldn't change much. If you remove the batt cable your misfire monitor will go away and you won't know if it is misfiring right away.

That code usually means you need to replace the O2 sensor, right? I don't see how the PCV could fix that. Is your PCV valve clogged?
Your suggestion on the android app is very interesting and I will check it out.

I have run my car for more than one month after disconnecting the battery. Is that not long enough?

My car leaks some oil from PCV + Grommet, so I decide to replace brand new PCV + Grommet to fix the problem once for all.
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