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#1 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Member Number: 50619
Join Date: Oct 2012
Chapter: Northeast
Drives: 99' 3.0
Visit: My Garage
Posts: 9
Trader Score: 0 reviews
Rep Power: 0 ![]() |
99' 3.0
as winter started here in PA I had to replace the coolant assembly that sits on the firewall due to severe rust. Now I appear to have a leak at the reservoir. Im thinking that its coming from the pressurized cap. When I turn off the car I can actually here what sounds like a boiling water sound from the engine if its hot enough. The temp gauge will suddenly jump from nothing to normal temp after I've been driving it for 10-15 mins. I'm wondering if I either have air in the system, a bad cap, a bad thermostat or a bad head gasket. Are there any other possibilities and how should I go about eliminating them while troubleshooting this problem? Last edited by noblebrown; 01-21-2013 at 11:28 AM. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Member
Member Number: 42637
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Florida
Chapter: Southeast
Drives: Ford Taurus 96 OHV
290,000+ miles
Visit: My Garage
Posts: 249
Trader Score: 0 reviews
Rep Power: 2 ![]() |
most likely the reservoir they are well known to leak
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#3 (permalink) | |
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Devoted Member
Member Number: 3136
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Omaha, nebraska
Chapter: Midwest
Drives: 1998 LX black Vulcan
1997 SE black Vulcan
Visit: My Garage
Posts: 1,488
Trader Score: 0 reviews
Rep Power: 10 ![]() |
Quote:
If you have any, replace it along with a new cap. Put a new motorcraft stat on while your at it, If your lucky,you don't have a head gasket going bad. If the car is high mileage, a water pump replacement is not a bad idea either
__________________
Bob Urz 1989 Vulcan wagon (wife crashed) 1990 Vulcan sedan (sold running) 1993 Vulcan sedan (wife crashed) 1993 Vulcan wagon (beat up like Battlestar Galactica, drove to junkyard on a sad day) 1997 Vulcan sedan daily driver, 1998 Vulcan sedan (recovered from daughter) If Spock drove a Taurus it would be a Vulcan |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Member
Member Number: 25751
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: North Canton, Ohio
Chapter: Northeast
Drives: (2) 2001 Taurus and 2006 Taurus
Visit: My Garage
Posts: 485
Trader Score: 0 reviews
Rep Power: 4 ![]() |
Buy the degas tank and cap from Ford because the aftermarket tanks have quality problems. I also have heard the threads on the aftermarket tanks won't hold the cap on right. You may not see open cracks but look close and you will see lines that are not supposed to be there. I had the same issue on a 2001 Taurus, both the heater manifold and the tank. Also make sure the little upper hose from the bottle to the radiator is secure. Last week I was dripping a little coolant and I could pull that hose off both connections even with the spring clamps on.
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#5 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Member Number: 50619
Join Date: Oct 2012
Chapter: Northeast
Drives: 99' 3.0
Visit: My Garage
Posts: 9
Trader Score: 0 reviews
Rep Power: 0 ![]() |
ok thanks ill check into it and let you know what i find
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#6 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Member Number: 50619
Join Date: Oct 2012
Chapter: Northeast
Drives: 99' 3.0
Visit: My Garage
Posts: 9
Trader Score: 0 reviews
Rep Power: 0 ![]() |
ok so im kinda broke rite now but wanted to get a better idea of what was wrong so i removed the cap to the degas tank and ran the engine hoping to see something telling. i added a little bit of fluid to bring to the cold level where it should be before turning on the car btw. I watched the fluid level stay steady with no movement for a few minutes and then the level began to rise (meaning the thermostat and water pump are working, right?). after another few minutes an air bubble or two popped up. i turned off the car thinking it might overflow soon. replaced the cap and ran the car at idle for about ten minutes or so. no leakage that i could notice. Considering the bubbles that I saw I checked around the headers to see if anything was leaking. nothing. no water in the oil or billowing blue or white smoke. also it didnt overheat, but like i said it was only idling. when I worked on the coolant system just recently I replaced the whole assembly at the heater core (just the hose assembly) and I dont believe I "burped" it properly. Does this sound like my likely problem considering the observations i mentioned earlier?
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