2004 Taurus dohc ac compressor removal - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 01-20-2013, 12:20 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Drives: 2004 Taurus SEL Duratec 2008 Taurus Limited 3.5
Posts: 23
Rep Power: 0
Trader Score: 0 reviews
2004 Taurus dohc ac compressor removal

Just finished an ac compressor removal and replacement on a 2004 Duratec. I ended up taking it out through the top unlike many articles I have read about taking it out the bottom. The compressor started making noise in the summer although the ac worked fine, I wasnt sure if it was the clutch or bearing and seemed to be intermittent. It finally gave up last weekend, so i guess it was time to do something, bearing seemed to be gone. After surveying the situation I thought I could get it out the top right side after removing the power steering hose. Lets just say after a few hours spent just removing the compressor bolts and then trying to take it out the way I thought it would come out I could see there was no way. Let me say the reason I started this job was to (A) save money by not taking it to the dealer (B make the car driveable asap. After reading about the horror stories of a $2000 bill at the dealer and just slightly less at an independant garage I'm thinking I have to do this job myself to be able to get the car back on the road and be able to eat next month !!. The taurus has 168,000 on it and and although it is in very good condition and well taken care of probably not worth much over $3800 so I couldn't justify 2 grand on repairs. Unfortunately it is not driveable without the compressor in place , no bypass pulleys or shorter belt routing options are available for this model and engine. I ended up getting a Ford service DVD off of ebay as suggested by some people, what a joke that was, very vague instructions! Some people suggested removing the exhaust pipe from the manifold down to the cat converter. heres how I removed the compressor.

A) Unhook battery from both terminals, remove serpentine belt from top pulley by pulling up and sliding off front (can be done without tools)
(b) block rear wheels and jack front of car and remove radiator deflector underneath the car and drain radiator.
C) release fuse block above left hand fan, remove both fans (1 bolt each)
D) remove 2 radiator hoses on top left side (1 goes to the water pump), (no need to remove top hose completely)
E) remove sensor from exhaust manifold
F) remove black painted coolant tube that runs in the front , above the exhaust manifold.
G) remove compressor manifold bolt at the rear of compressor
H) remove the four bolts holding the compressor
I) guide the compressor towards the left hand fan opening and up and out the top.
J) reverse the above when installing.
K) When reinstalling the sepentine belt it can be put back on without tools but you have to be strong!! Pull up on the belt and slide it over the top pulley, you may need help and watch your fingers!!

This a messy 8-10 hour job and will make your hands look like hamburger from cuts and scrapes. The bolts and such are difficult to get to and the stupid christmas tree wire holders are the worst inventions ever! They dont like to come out! I put a new compressor in from Autozone for $186 w/tax and some PAG46 oil in the compressor before I installed it (read the directions that comes with your compressor). I will not be filling the ac until sometime this spring so I pulled the ac clutch fuse in the engine compartment fuse box. I cant say this job is complete yet but it is back on the road for under $200 which was my main goal and I'm happy to say I only ended up with 1 part leftover! After finishing and picking up the tools I found a rubber bumper that the fan sits in on the lower mount, it must have stuck to the bottom of the fan then came off when i set it on the floor , oh well. Hope this post helps some of you!! Just remember this guide is just for reference and I'm not responsible for accidents or otherwise!!! LOL

Last edited by cpayton61; 01-20-2013 at 12:24 PM. Reason: steps forgotten
cpayton61 is offline  
Sponsored Links
post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 01-20-2013, 01:39 PM
Crazy Devoted Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 16,706
Rep Power: 77
Trader Score: 1 reviews
Thanks for the write-up! Good job!
sheila is offline  
post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 09-17-2014, 12:53 PM
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Chapter: Midwest
Drives: 2003 Taurus sel 3.0l 24valve
Posts: 3
Rep Power: 0
Trader Score: 0 reviews
Could you tell me if you had a heck of a time getting the A/C manifold bolt out. I've tried for a couple of days to get this SOB out and can't. It is on so tight I'm scared of breaking the bolt off. I've put all my weight on it and can't get it to pop loose. I weigh 270 so it's not like I can't get some pressure on it, it's just not coming out. If you have any suggestions it would be greatly appreciated. Did you take it off when the compressor was still bolted to the motor or after taking it off? Thanks.
jball21973 is offline  
post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 09-17-2014, 12:55 PM
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Chapter: Midwest
Drives: 2003 Taurus sel 3.0l 24valve
Posts: 3
Rep Power: 0
Trader Score: 0 reviews
I've used penetrating oil and the spray kind also and it still won't come off.
jball21973 is offline  
post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 09-18-2014, 02:55 AM
Technical Advisor
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Blythewood, SC 29016
Chapter: Southeast
Drives: 00 SEL Sedan DOHC
Posts: 17,393
Rep Power: 101
Trader Score: 7 reviews
Send a message via AIM to Bull Geek Send a message via MSN to Bull Geek
When I did compressor on the 2000 DOHC, I removed the manifold connection while compressor was bolted to the car. IIRC 10mm, 11mm or 13mm bolt head. I even made sure to use a socket that was snug. I also stuffed cardboard between fan opening and radiator, so if I bashed into the rad, I wouldn't put a hole in it. And yes the connection is tight. I remember using a socket and extension on a ratchet with a pipe over ratchet. Some idiot mechanic in 2008 tightened it down too tight.

-'66 Ford Country Squire wagon 390/C6
-'87 & '89 Mercury Colony Park wagons 302 EFI/AOD
-'90 Lincoln Town Car 302 EFI/AOD
-'03 Lincoln Town Car 4.6L/4R70W

former '87 Taurus 3.0 GL sedan, '87 Taurus 3.0 GL Wagon, '97 Taurus SHO 3.4 V8 sedan, '00 Taurus SEL 3.0 24V
Bull Geek is offline  
Sponsored Links
Gear in this thread - Powered by O'Reilly Auto Parts

Quick Reply

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:


Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome