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Old 01-17-2013, 07:10 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Where is the schrader valve and/or fuel rail on Vulcan

Car is 2001 Taurus, Vin U (3.0L Vulcan OHV engine). I rented the tool to check the fuel pressure, but don't have a service manual to help me locate the schrader valve. I did find a long "rail" looking thing with a valve on the end, but it looks too small (it's about the sized of a tube stem on a bicycle tire.

Thanks
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Old 01-17-2013, 07:27 PM   #2 (permalink)
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That's it, it is smaller
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Old 01-17-2013, 07:33 PM   #3 (permalink)
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FYI, a Schrader valve is the same type of valve you have on your tires (car and most bicycle).

You can see it on the left here:

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Old 01-17-2013, 07:43 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Look at the other link on the fuel fitting that you responded to. I posted a picture of the fitting you need.
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Old 01-17-2013, 08:18 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks. Found it while you guys were helping me (sorry for wasting your time he he). For some reason when I first put on the adapter, it didn't feel like it would fit. Then after 15 minutes of running in circles, I decided to try with more determination - as in put the adapter on and actually attempt to turn it clockwise a bit. Sure enough, the threads in the adapter are recessed enough that it doesn't feel normal putting it on. I then found the problem the other guy (rmc1926?) had with alternator being in the way. I then located the elbow adapter in the kit (comes with the kit from Autozone).

I did not take steps to relieve fuel pressure prior to connecting the pressure gauge (as instructed by the tester manual - which also comes with the kit). But I did use plenty of rags to keep gasoline from getting on the alternator (ewwwwh if that were to happen...).

No pressure on the gauge whatsoever, and after several ignition-on-off-on attempts. I rechecked the tightness on the elbow adapter and the schrader adapter, then tried again to no avail.

The car has been sitting on an empty (or very close to empty) fuel tank for a year.

I did put gasoline (4 gallons) into the tank prior to the test.

Research suggests that in the case of a car running out of gas, that the fuel pump could get debris in it and fail. Research also suggests taking a mallet and hitting the pump to break it loose from a locked-up condition that sometimes exists in this case. (Isn't the fuel pump mounted through a hole in the top of the tank? Which would make it hard to get a mallet on it to smack.)

Upon removing the tester from the schrader valve, there was a pleasant smell of gas on the adapters, as well as being wet. Is the evidence of gasoline any good sign that maybe the pump is at least working to a degree, and that it or the fuel filter could be clogged?

Thanks, and i'm now working on locating the relay to check for a signal to the pump. Also, I've checked the OBD II codes and no codes came up.

The ignition-on-off-on cycle was about 20 cycles over 3 minutes or so.

Steph
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Old 01-17-2013, 08:48 PM   #6 (permalink)
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So I take it you're not hearing the pump run when you turn the key? You might start with electrical checks (fuse, relay, inertial switch).

You don't have to hit the actual fuel pump, the idea is to transmit vibrations to it by hitting the tank.

Fuel in the rail was probably residual.
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Old 01-17-2013, 11:27 PM   #7 (permalink)
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We came back from dinner and decided to try a quick test with the car on level surface (compared to the banked driveway it was parked on during the first test above). I executed 20 ignition-on-off-on cycles before attempting to engage the starter to no avail. There was no sound that I could hear indicating either a motor whirling or a solenoid engaging or such.

Should try the mallet trick next.

Question: Is 4 gallons enough to get the pump wet with the car on an incline driveway (approx 1 ft elevation per 15 ft latitude) ? The car has an 18 gallon capacity tank and the meter showed a little more than a quarter of a tank. But since we tested at the bottom of the driveway where it's level, then the point is mute I guess. Still curious though.

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Old 01-17-2013, 11:44 PM   #8 (permalink)
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The fuse check that I did was to visually inspect (without removing) the fuses in the fuse compartment at the front of the engine. I'll try next to put a meter on the inertial switch connector while an assistant cycles the ignition switch. If that checks okay, the next question is whether there is a convenient test point at the fuel pump that will exclude having to remove the fuel tank.

Regards
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Old 01-18-2013, 12:23 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by georgestaurus View Post
The fuse check that I did was to visually inspect (without removing) the fuses in the fuse compartment at the front of the engine. I'll try next to put a meter on the inertial switch connector while an assistant cycles the ignition switch. If that checks okay, the next question is whether there is a convenient test point at the fuel pump that will exclude having to remove the fuel tank.

Regards
The inertia switch is the in truck that is in line with the fuel pump.

you can also get a plug in fuse current meter from harbor freight for
less than $20 that you can plug into the fuse for the fuel pump
and read it current draw for a short while with out major wiring
disruptions

20 Amp Automotive Fuse Circuit Tester

bob
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Old 01-18-2013, 01:26 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soundu View Post

you can also get a plug in fuse current meter from harbor freight for
less than $20 that you can plug into the fuse for the fuel pump
and read it current draw for a short while with out major wiring
disruptions

bob
I made my own one of these for use with my DMM years ago. Took a blown fuse and used a Dremmel to cut down the plastic around the 2 "contacts" that are visible on the "top" of the fuse. Soldered 2 wires with banana plugs on one end of the wires to the now exposed contacts on the top of the fuse. Cost: $0. Time to make it: under 5 minutes. Has come in very useful over the years.
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