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Old 01-16-2013, 09:19 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Rear Strut Replacement - Bushings too?

Been looking through the forums for info on read strut replacement. I've got a Gen 4 Taurus (2006) with over 100K miles.

I'm planning to replace the struts, but wanted to check whether there were other parts I should also replace while I'm at it.
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Old 01-16-2013, 10:51 PM   #2 (permalink)
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If everything else looks good, just replace the struts. The swaybar endlinks may need replacement bushings while your at it. If your springs are weak, find some strut assemblies that have the springs already in place. Have plenty of penetrating oil nearby.
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Old 01-17-2013, 11:12 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I believe Ford eliminated the sway bar on the 2006 taurus at least the one I have. You should replace the pinch bolt that holds the strut in place. I got 128,000 on my 2006 and wouldn't consider replacing the struts unless you have a broken spring. I am cheap but the way I look at it is that if the back tires are wearing ok then there is no need to replace. You may end up having some front end component replacements in the next 25k to 50 k miles and then do them and spend the money on alignment. At that time you may consider front struts because you may get a spring break. In the mean time look for sales on Quickstruts.
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Old 01-17-2013, 01:33 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Struts are supposed to last only 80-100K.
I have still the original ones at 180K and they are "working" somehow, but they lost the seal of the pressurized nitrogen - they "woosh" when I go over speed bumps. New ones would probably help a lot with the feel of the car... but I don't have money for that yet.
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Old 01-17-2013, 04:59 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks for all the inputs. In re-reading my post, I want to clarify that I'm planning on replacing the rear struts. Sorry about the typo. Since I'm over 100K, I've been waiting on a sale and went ahead and bought 4 Raybestos Quick Struts. I've already replaced the front struts, and did the ball joints, tie rod ends and sway bar links while I had it apart.

The one thing I didn't do was the lower control arm bushings, because at the time I didn't think I'd be needing to take that off to do the rest. Based upon posts here, I was hoping to be able to just loosen them a bit to get everything apart, but after leaning on a big pry bar trying to get the control arm off the ball joint, I just went ahead and took them off. Turned out to be pretty easy and definitely made everything go smoother.

Having said that, I didn't have replacement bushings, and now I wish I had, cause I've still got some unwanted thumps coming from the front end that I suspect are the control arm bushings, mainly be process of elimination. I looked into it when I had them apart, but none of the local parts stores had them in stock, and I couldn't do without the car for the 2-3 days it would have taken to get them delivered.

Which leads me back to my question here about the rear struts. I've read posts that talk about replacing bushings on the sway bar link, but I have to admit I haven't crawled under the car yet to verify that it looks like my haynes manual, which seem to indicate that there are bushings that could be replaced.

Based upon Major's post, and that fact that I'm now sorry I didn't replace the front bushings while I had the chance, I'm gonna go put the thing up on jackstands and see what's under there.

Thanks to everyone. I've gotten a lot of help and encouragement from this forum and have tackled jobs (like struts, ball joints and tie rod ends) that I would never have attempted in the past.
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Old 01-17-2013, 05:24 PM   #6 (permalink)
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The control arms on the back are different and surely don't need the bushings replaced. They actually are adjustable to do your rear alignment. You don't need stabilizer links because Ford removed the back stabilizer bars on the 2006. There is a tension link bushing between the frame and the knucle. I have had five taurus and never replace any of that stuff in the rear. Just the struts and mounts. I had over 750K miles on all with two over 235K each.
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Old 01-18-2013, 11:14 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b.christian View Post
Been looking through the forums for info on read strut replacement. I've got a Gen 4 Taurus (2006) with over 100K miles.

I'm planning to replace the struts, but wanted to check whether there were other parts I should also replace while I'm at it.

Getting the quick struts was the smart move. Your springs will eventually
start breaking away. Better to do the job once than multiple times.

From my experience in rear struts, here is what i would do.
Use your pressure washer or take it to the car wash. Jack up the
rear of the car. Spray inside the knuckle where the strut goes in,
on the seam on both sides. spray down the rear of the area where the
crud could fall in your eyes. Let it dry off, then spray the seam with
penetrating oil or such. let it soak in. THEN try to remove the struts.
Its much easier if you put the entire back end up and remove BOTH
sway bar links before you start removing anything else

This area of the knuckle builds up rust which makes it hard to get the
dam pinch bolt out. The more crud you can break loose, the easier
time your going to have. be careful of being too aggressive if it does not
immediately come out. A broken pinch bolt is a pain to deal with.
just keep working it in and out in both directions until you get it out
it may take torch heat as well as penetrating oil to do it.

If you having issues, an extra long breaker bar is a good way to modulate
the force to get it broke loose. Its a little to easier to get carried away
with the impact, then BOING goes the pinch bolt if you not careful.

If your stuck, your going to need to double team it with one guy on the
torch, and one guy on the breaker bar.


You can inspect the sway bar and links for bad rubber and replace as
needed.

With any luck, you will make a few bucks with the change stuck
under the back seat when you take it out.
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Old 01-18-2013, 05:12 PM   #8 (permalink)
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On a 2006 you shouldn't have too much issues with the pinch bolt. I never broke a pinch bolt with a impact gun. Just dont have it turned all the way up. Use plenty of penetrating oil days in advance of the job. THe front bolts are about the same but the knuckle is aluminum but after trying to loosen the bolt I decided to tighten it. It worked it turned an eighth of a turn. I backed it out that amount and was able to get some oil into the bolt area. Half an hour later of in and out the bolt was free.

The other nut that was hard for me was the tension strut between the knuckle and the frame. Couldn't get it loose without heat. Just enough to smell the rubber and then a quick zip off with the impact gun

Last edited by Automender12345; 01-18-2013 at 05:15 PM.
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