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Old 01-04-2013, 03:36 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default How To Replace Belt Tensioner Replacement DOHC 24 VALVE ???



How in the world do you get the tensioner bolt off to replace the tensioner assembly. I have a DOHC engine that is totally differnet then the OHV when it comes to removing the tensioner. Do I need to take the coolant reservoir out and anyone know what size bolt I need to remove.

THe pulley itself is a breeze to take off the tensioner Im curious to find out how others have accessed and remove the tensioner itself which is bolted to the block itself
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Old 01-04-2013, 06:18 PM   #2 (permalink)
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go through the wheel well underneath.....not sure on bolt size though...not near any vehicle at the moment. You can use the pulley bolt to move the arm to expose the mounting bolts. I'm not exactly sure (from memory) if the pulley has holes to get to the bolts, but I do not believe it does.


Upon further thinking....the tensioner has a single mounting bolt through the center (torx t-50 I believe) The pulley is solid. It is very tight to get into because the rail is in the way.Removing the degas tank will allow some extra work room, but will not give you all you need. It is a little easier to remove the pulley, then the tensioner. There is a guide pin on the back of the tensioner,to locate it on the block face.


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Last edited by intimidator; 01-04-2013 at 06:40 PM.
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Old 01-05-2013, 07:29 AM   #3 (permalink)
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GoBull,

It is not that hard but you have to do some of it by feel. Removing the coolant tank will give more room to work. Everything is done from the top. The tensioner has a 3/8 inch square hole in it made for a 3/8 rachet or breaker bar. I use an 18 inch breaker bar with a 3/8 adapter on it. The frame of the tensioner has the 3/8 hole in it. Feel with your hand and get the breaker bar in it. Pull toward the front of the car and the tension on the belt will loosen. While you have the tension on the belt loose, reach down with your other hand and feel around the bottom of the tensioner assembly. There is a lever type piece that you push up on while letting off pressure from the breaker bar and the tensioner will lock in place. You can then remove the breaker bar and the belt. Now get a torx bit ( not sure if it is a #50 or not) you can get a cheap set at Harbor Freight for less than $10.00. They should be less that two inches in length because of little room to work. Use the proper torks bit and an open end wrench that fits the tensioner bracket bolt and remove it. Take the new tensioner assy and place in a vice and use your 3/8 breaker bar and pull it to the lock position prior to installing it. You can take a small inspection mirror and look at yor tensioner to see what I am talking about. I hope you can understand what I wrote it may not be too clear but hope it helps. I see people post asking for help to change the belt and tensioner and it shouldn't take more than 15-20 minutes.

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Old 01-05-2013, 07:41 AM   #4 (permalink)
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GoBull,

Do a search on Youtube for "changing belt on ford DOHC" there is a video by 1AAAuto that shows and even easier method. The video begins by saying you will need a #27 Torx bit but in the video he say a #47 which I believe to be correct.

Ed
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Old 01-12-2013, 06:23 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Default Belt tensioner replacement dohc

1. Drain coolant from radiator drain plug
2. Remove plastic coolant tank **sensor on the bottom of tank, careful**
3. Remove drive belt using serpentine belt tool (3/8 square notch in belt tensioner for the tool)
4. Two hoses block the view of the 10mm bolt you need to remove, loosen the brackets for those two hoses to allow you to move them around a bit
5. Itís still very tight in there but you can get the 10mm bolt out
a. Use a short 10mm wobble sock or
b. 10mm offset wrench
6. There is an small O-Ring on the bolt donít lose it, goes on the bolt between tensioner and motor
7. Install the tensioner by aligning the round notch with the motor
8. Tighten by hand the bolt then make it SNUG **donít over tighten**

**Included PIC of old tensioner**
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Old 02-11-2013, 09:54 AM   #6 (permalink)
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some good advice to make accessing the bolt easier. LOOSEN (DO NOT REMOVE) LOWER motor mount bolts on passenger side and slowly raise engine via the OIL PAN with jack. You have two motor mounts on the passenger side of the DOHC engine. (1) Between Axle and Firewall and (2) next to lower radiator hose.
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Old 02-11-2013, 11:13 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GOBULLGO View Post


How in the world do you get the tensioner bolt off to replace the tensioner assembly. I have a DOHC engine that is totally differnet then the OHV when it comes to removing the tensioner. Do I need to take the coolant reservoir out and anyone know what size bolt I need to remove.

THe pulley itself is a breeze to take off the tensioner Im curious to find out how others have accessed and remove the tensioner itself which is bolted to the block itself
Does this help?
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Old 02-11-2013, 10:24 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Not sure what some of you are doing.

When I replace a tensioner on a DOHC, I remove the bolts holding the coolant jug in place, then get a bungee cord and tie the tank up out of the way. I use a shop rag to slip the belt off the PS pump pulley. Then use a 1/4" or 3/8" inch drive Torx socket. It's a T30 IIRC on my 2000, and I sneak a small head ratchet onto the torx socket. Or I clamp vice grips onto it to snap it loose. Then I remove the tool and remove it by hand.
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Old 03-10-2013, 05:39 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I concure with Bullgeek. No need to drain your antifreeze or fool around with engine mounts.
You can just move the tank gently aside. I also remove the PS reserviour to get the hose out of the way.

I don't recall which extention or torx socket I used. I know I did not use a vice grip.
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Old 05-24-2013, 03:58 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GOBULLGO View Post
1. Drain coolant from radiator drain plug
2. Remove plastic coolant tank **sensor on the bottom of tank, careful**
3. Remove drive belt using serpentine belt tool (3/8 square notch in belt tensioner for the tool)
4. Two hoses block the view of the 10mm bolt you need to remove, loosen the brackets for those two hoses to allow you to move them around a bit
5. It’s still very tight in there but you can get the 10mm bolt out
a. Use a short 10mm wobble sock or
b. 10mm offset wrench
6. There is an small O-Ring on the bolt don’t lose it, goes on the bolt between tensioner and motor
7. Install the tensioner by aligning the round notch with the motor
8. Tighten by hand the bolt then make it SNUG **don’t over tighten**

**Included PIC of old tensioner**
I need to replace my tensioner and pulley. Offset wrench seems like it would do the trick nicely for this job.
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