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Old 12-10-2012, 04:43 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Cooling fan issue resolved!!

Well after the catastrophic failure of my replacement relay system, I finally got all my tools and manuals in one place and gave my A/C/Cooling system electricals another thorough once over.

The culprit was discovered as to why I had no cooling fan with A/C on and why it wasn't always working when the car was approaching being too hot.

Yes it was the elusive "Voltage Dropping Resistor", the part looked good, and it actually would test good in the past, but this time when checking the resistance I noticed it was fluctuating wildly as I was testing it.

Seems one of the legs going into the resistor had corroded inside the ceramic and all it took was a gentle pull to remove the wire from the resistor on that side. It wasn't completely disconnected inside but very close which is why I couldn't ever determine the culprit in the past.

Here's a pic:


As you can see on the left side I cut the wiring, the right side was the problem area, note the green around the hole where the copper corrosion bled into the ceramic. I jumpered the wires together off the plug harness and so my fan works again with the A/C on and when the engine temp calls for it, but now it works only on high.

Will be looking for one of these in a day or two at the local bone yards, seems Ford put these on a nice wide range of vehicles in the GenI/II Taurus year model era so should find one easily.
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Old 12-10-2012, 05:46 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Good detective work, most people wouldn't have found that in a month of Sundays. That thing looks familiar, I probably have one on my Vulcan somewhere that I've seen a dozen times while doing something else. Where physically on your engine is it?
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Old 12-10-2012, 06:00 PM   #3 (permalink)
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That item is mounted right under the power steering line bracket, closer to the connector for the cooling fan.

Heck the 3rd Gens have that too. Mounted on the passenger side of the car, right between the reservoir for the washerfluid and the horn:
http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/atta...n_resistor.jpg

(not my car).

BTW:Riptides, I'm coming to Atlanta December 22nd. Still interested in the rear struts? I also have some mint 89 LX door panels in gray. Any interest?
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Old 12-10-2012, 11:29 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Oh yeah, that's right. I remember having to move it so I could re-route my PS lines, after I made the mistake of having the local Firestone mouthbreathers replace the pressure line. I ended up getting a $460 refund from those menaces.
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Old 12-11-2012, 02:54 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lgbpop View Post
Good detective work, most people wouldn't have found that in a month of Sundays. That thing looks familiar, I probably have one on my Vulcan somewhere that I've seen a dozen times while doing something else. Where physically on your engine is it?
LOL it only took me oh.. 6 months to diagnose, and this was like the 6th time I did electrical testings on parts. I was still getting voltage to the fan harness but obviously with the wiring not fully attached in the resistor it wasn't proper and the readings weren't always reflecting real world. And as others noted the ceramic resistor was mounted on a bracket on the top of the transmission that the power steering lines were attached to.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bull Geek View Post
Heck the 3rd Gens have that too. Mounted on the passenger side of the car, right between the reservoir for the washerfluid and the horn:
http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/atta...n_resistor.jpg

(not my car).

BTW:Riptides, I'm coming to Atlanta December 22nd. Still interested in the rear struts? I also have some mint 89 LX door panels in gray. Any interest?
That's good info right there on the location. It would be easier to pull one from a 3rd gen Taurus than to rip out a 2nd gens air cleaner parts to get to it.

And on the BTW: I'm not going to have the funds at xmas time to make a bonus purchase for my car. I hate that, but holiday money is tight and already earmarked through January.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lgbpop View Post
Oh yeah, that's right. I remember having to move it so I could re-route my PS lines, after I made the mistake of having the local Firestone mouthbreathers replace the pressure line. I ended up getting a $460 refund from those menaces.
Yes I already replaced the High Pressure line on my PS in the past, and it was a BEAST of a job. I pretty much had to bend the lines to get them routed into place, then bend them back to mount them to the car.

And going back to (not) having any money for bonus purchases, I finally pulled the trigger on getting an OBDI scantool for the ford with Digital screen ($32.50 at O'Reillys). I really didn't have money for that right now but wanted to verify the computer over the weekend. The only code I'm getting is the Power Steering Pressure Sensor is inactive which explains an engine stutter when I turn the wheels at idle.

If it hadn't rained here last night and temp now at 40 outside I'd be at the boneyard hunting for my part, gonna wait until Friday.

BTW, according to the Ford-Truck forums you can replace the busted resistor with a "new" part from Porsche suppliers.
Thread: Possible cheap dropping resistor 12v --> 6v ? - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
Part Link: Pelican Parts - Product Information: OEM-94461652101

This is future search info for anyone interested in buying a new one.
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Old 12-17-2012, 01:35 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Was able to pull a voltage dropping resistor unit off of a 1990 Sable Wagon over the weekend at the pick a part and get it installed. Fan issue is fixed for now, fan comes on LOW for A/C use and at proper temps, high works as well.

Thinking I'll eventually need a radiator fan motor and/or fan plug harness but that's the shakes for constantly pulling the fan plug a hundred times over the past few months.

Got it connected good for now but don't feel like I can trust it in the long run.

But it works and can already verify I'm getting better mileage again with everything connected back up as Ford engineers intended. Also few other driving issues have fixed themselves since it's all back to normal. NO more hesitation in acceleration and so on.

Happy Driver again.
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Old 12-17-2012, 08:38 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Congratulations on getting it fixed!

BTW you want FOUR SEASONS Part # 3566. Has the OEM style connector. I replaced the one in my wagon with it, works great.

BTW check your PM box.
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Old 12-17-2012, 08:48 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I need to check that resistor on my engine, just for laughs. Mileage has been poopy lately except for the interstate. Thanks for yet another thing I should check!
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Old 12-17-2012, 09:39 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lgbpop View Post
I need to check that resistor on my engine, just for laughs. Mileage has been poopy lately except for the interstate. Thanks for yet another thing I should check!
The part I pulled off the Sable, which looked really good and was low miles, is solid where the wires go in, no wiggle at all on them in the ceramic unlike my failing unit.

I'm doing mainly country driving these days, like highway, but have several areas where I hit stop and go in my commute.

It's gone from around 15mpg with the temp sensor pulled, to 17 with the add-on relay, to about 19mpg with everything fixed back to stock.

The car has totally stopped acting goofy on warm-ups and stop and go driving, meaning no more loping idle, or hesitations on acceleration from a stop.
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Old 12-18-2012, 08:20 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bull Geek View Post
Congratulations on getting it fixed!

BTW you want FOUR SEASONS Part # 3566. Has the OEM style connector. I replaced the one in my wagon with it, works great.
Think that P/N is 35661.
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