Temp gauge slow to rise - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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post #1 of 36 (permalink) Old 12-08-2012, 12:30 AM Thread Starter
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Temp gauge slow to rise

Hey fellow members,

I just finished changing the heater core on my '99 sable with floor shift using the shortcut. I didnt see too many people on here talking about using the shortcut with floor shift, but i can say that it is possible. Instead of cutting the metal bracket, I had to cut a horizontal plastic crossmember that supported a bracket behind the ashtray. With that out of the way, there is enough room to slide the core out.

Anyways, I changed the core because I thought it was still plugged with rust even after backflushing it about 6 times. Since I don't have the bypass tube anymore, it dawned on me that the plugged heater core could be causing backpressure and therefore preventing it from heating properly. I proved myself right when I bypassed the core completely. I did this by taking some spare heater hose and "looping" from the lower intake over to the other side into the water pump. With this setup, my temp gauge rose to halfway about three times faster than what it normally did with the core connected.

That being said, I replaced the core with a brand new spectra premium one for pretty cheap. Got everything back together and went for a drive. The temp gauge rose at the same speed as the old core.

Now I am thinking that it is the core itself and how its designed that is causing a flow problem. Or another possibility could be the coolant itself because when i had the system "looped", all that was in the system was tap water. Every other "normal" time was coolant in the system which is a year old. Could it be possible that the coolant has lost its heat transferring capabilities?

Any input would be appreciated.

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post #2 of 36 (permalink) Old 12-08-2012, 12:47 AM
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Temp rising slowly usually means stuck open Tstat. How slowly does it rise? Do you have a motorcraft thermostat in?

What boggles my mind is that you bypass the core and it rises normally. Did you check if the temp from a scan tool corresponds with the temp the gauge shows?

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post #3 of 36 (permalink) Old 12-08-2012, 01:07 AM
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My Vulcan heater core has a bypass built into the system. Supposedly this is to prevent the heater core which is apparently prone to clogging from restricting flow of coolant to the engine. During the "Clinton" flush you are supposed to clamp off the bypass to force flush the heater core. So I am not questioning your observations, just don't understand results. I would look at thermostat but cannot understand how bypassing the heater core allows a quicker warm up?

Scott
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post #4 of 36 (permalink) Old 12-08-2012, 02:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djunified View Post
Hey fellow members,

I just finished changing the heater core on my '99 sable with floor shift using the shortcut. I didnt see too many people on here talking about using the shortcut with floor shift, but i can say that it is possible. Instead of cutting the metal bracket, I had to cut a horizontal plastic crossmember that supported a bracket behind the ashtray. With that out of the way, there is enough room to slide the core out.

Anyways, I changed the core because I thought it was still plugged with rust even after backflushing it about 6 times. Since I don't have the bypass tube anymore, it dawned on me that the plugged heater core could be causing backpressure and therefore preventing it from heating properly. I proved myself right when I bypassed the core completely. I did this by taking some spare heater hose and "looping" from the lower intake over to the other side into the water pump. With this setup, my temp gauge rose to halfway about three times faster than what it normally did with the core connected.

That being said, I replaced the core with a brand new spectra premium one for pretty cheap. Got everything back together and went for a drive. The temp gauge rose at the same speed as the old core.

Now I am thinking that it is the core itself and how its designed that is causing a flow problem. Or another possibility could be the coolant itself because when i had the system "looped", all that was in the system was tap water. Every other "normal" time was coolant in the system which is a year old. Could it be possible that the coolant has lost its heat transferring capabilities?

Any input would be appreciated.
Make sure the thermostat is facing the right direction,
make sure its not stuck open (DON't USE FAILSAFE STATS!)
Take the water pump off and make sure there are fins left on the impeller

Bob Urz 1989 Vulcan wagon (wife crashed) 1990 Vulcan sedan (sold running) 1993 Vulcan sedan (wife crashed) 1993 Vulcan wagon (beat up like Battlestar Galactica, drove to junkyard on a sad day) 1997 Vulcan sedan (down with multiple coolant leaks), 1998 Vulcan sedan (rescued from being junked twice with broken brake lines and bad rack, currently resurrected)

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post #5 of 36 (permalink) Old 12-08-2012, 02:23 AM
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"Take the water pump off and make sure there are fins left on the impeller"

...my thoughts exactly.


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post #6 of 36 (permalink) Old 12-08-2012, 08:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danhasenauer View Post
"Take the water pump off and make sure there are fins left on the impeller"

...my thoughts exactly.
+1

It's a flow problem, so if the pipes are clear then you have to look at the pump.
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post #7 of 36 (permalink) Old 12-08-2012, 09:12 AM Thread Starter
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Another thing i should of added in the original post. Sorry guys, it was the cuba libres that i had last night . Anyways, both the water pump and the thermostat are brand new. The old water pump was in bad shape, so i replaced it. And as far as the thermostat, I have changed it on several occasions. Original thermostat didnt have the little jiggle valve, so i replaced it with a prestone 197 thermostat that did have the valve. I saw no difference, so i bought a $17 motorcraft thermostat. This one also had the jiggle valve, and it also made no difference.

The amount of cooling system related maintenance that i have done to this car is more than i have ever done to any other car.

Im out of ideas to be honest.

Thanks for your replies

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'98 Mercury Mystique GS Duratec 2.5 V6

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post #8 of 36 (permalink) Old 12-08-2012, 09:52 AM
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Okay, well how long exactly are we talking about here to warm up? Give your starting and ending temperatures.

Also, has it occurred to you that eliminating the bypass might have something to do with this? I'm guessing the bypass is there to help speed up engine warm up times in addition to preventing a total blockage in the event of a heater core.

Pure water will conduct heat better than antifreeze (higher heat capacity), which will mean it will take the water longer to heat up than antifreeze. Either way, you should always maintain the proper antifreeze concentration (between 40-60%). You should check your concentration with a hydrometer. The system is not designed to be run with straight water, so that might have something to do with it.
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post #9 of 36 (permalink) Old 12-08-2012, 10:34 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks behlinla. I will find one of my antifreeze testers and check the concentration of my antifreeze. If it is too strong or too weak I may end up changing it all together.

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post #10 of 36 (permalink) Old 12-08-2012, 12:13 PM
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Something you need to keep in mind, something I learned when looking for an OEM bypass/heater core assembly when mine had terminal pinholes. The Vulcan engine was designed with cooling jackets in the front and back of the block that are NOT connected internally. This was done to simplify casting the blocks. The bypass part of the OEM bypass/core assembly is the connection, allowing unrestricted flow of coolant throughout the entire block no matter the condition of the heater core.

If your cooling system doesn't include the bypass (in other words, all coolant passes only through the heater core), your engine's operating efficiency and long-term health is being compromised even if the core is perfectly clean.
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