Bleeding Brakes: Best Way - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-06-2012, 06:39 AM Thread Starter
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Bleeding Brakes: Best Way

Post the professional procedure to bleed brakes. I've been shown a few ways.

1....
2...
3...

Do I need to have new rotors cut?

My Taurus has stops fine but never a good quick stop.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-06-2012, 07:34 AM
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The best way is to do it with a helper.

First you need tools. Find out the size of wrench you need for the bleeder valve. I believe its 10 or 11mm. You need an open wrench (you can get a whole set of many sizes for like $10 at Harbor Fright Tools). You need a transparent hose that runs from the valve into a container. The fish tank utility hose sold at Walmart in pet section for like $3 works for me. Finally, you need some brake fluid. More is better. I use up like a quart when bleeding all brakes to make sure all of the old fluid was pumped through.

Jack up one side. Take the wheel off. Put the open (round) wrench on the bleeder valve. Connect one end of the hose to the valve and the other end into a container (soda bottle, etc). I use a set of thin pliers to stretch the end of the hose before fitting it on the valve (valve is a bit too wide).

Before proceeding further I'd recommend to use a long hose to siphon old brake fluid from the fluid reservoir, this will make the process a bit faster. Top off the reservoir with fresh fluid, all the way to the very top.

Now the real bleeding process.

1. Tell your buddy to press and hold the brake pedal
2. Open the bleeder valve
3. Close the valve when you see that fluid stopped flowing.
4. Tell your buddy to release the brake pedal.
5. Repeat.

Keep pumping until you see lighter (new fluid) coming through the hose, then stop. As you pump the brake fluid though the system, keep an eye on the brake fluid level in the reservoir. Top it off when necessary. If you let it go dry, air can get into the brake system and the whole process needs to be repeated. Pour the used brake fluid on the first baby seal you can find.. err delete this step. Return it on AutoZone, CarX, Walmart, etc.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-06-2012, 08:52 AM
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I always vacuum bleed brakes with a vacuum pump and a catch can. No helper needed and no pressing of the brake pedal.

05 Taurus SEL Duratec - my daily driver
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-06-2012, 09:41 AM
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^+1...easiest way.

04 Taurus SES 3.0 Vulcan (gone)
03 Sable LS 3.0 Duratec (traded)
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-06-2012, 10:22 AM
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I also saw richpin06a covers the valve with some grease to prevent air being sucked in.

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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-06-2012, 09:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by q0987 View Post
I also saw richpin06a covers the valve with some grease to prevent air being sucked in.
Richpin knows his stuff! I almost forgot about that guy, you just took me back about 2 years when I had a Saturn wagon

John
'01 Sable LS Premium Wagon Duratec, 99 Dodge Durango 318 V8

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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-07-2012, 01:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Squiggle96 View Post

Do I need to have new rotors cut?

My Taurus has stops fine but never a good quick stop.

If your rotors are flat and not scored, (assuming they have enough meat
on them to meet minimum thickness), i would not have them turned.
It would cost about 1/2 as much as new Chinese rotors.
New ones should be good out of the box to use.

What i do do is take a file and file down the ridge that gets built up on
the outside edge of the rotors on both the front and back if needed.
I also clean all the crud out of the vent holes between the faces.


Run you clean fingers across them and feel for imperfections on the
surface. If they are scored, i would just buy new aftermarket units.
Or get lucky at the upull yard and find some virtually new rotors for
$10 or so each. (I have done that before). I have found new brake
pads/shoes in the back seats or trunks in cars at the Upull yards.
I got the shoes on my 97 this way.

Also, make sure you rear brakes are working and NOT stuck or jammed.
Its easy to overlook this. On my 97, i had one side of a wheel cylinder
stuck solid in its bore. My 98 had a stuck rear caliper. even though
the front brakes do most of the work, having the rear brakes not up
to par will make it appear your brakes are not as good as they should be.

Bob Urz 1989 Vulcan wagon (wife crashed) 1990 Vulcan sedan (sold running) 1993 Vulcan sedan (wife crashed) 1993 Vulcan wagon (beat up like Battlestar Galactica, drove to junkyard on a sad day) 1997 Vulcan sedan (down with multiple coolant leaks), 1998 Vulcan sedan (rescued from being junked twice with broken brake lines and bad rack, currently resurrected)

If Spock drove a Taurus it would be a Vulcan
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-07-2012, 02:39 AM
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One simple but slow way to bleed the brakes is simply open the bleeder valve and let the fluid flow out under gravity. This is a very slow process (could take hour or longer instead of 5 minutes), and you need to be around the whole time in order to top off the brake fluid reservoir when necessary. This is how I did it the first first time.
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