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Old 11-28-2012, 09:24 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Default Pictures to show the connection of +/- battery cable

Hello all,

I have done some researches on my car and here is my finding:

Negative cable:

N1=> to car body (shown on last image on the right)
N2=> to engine (shown on the first image on the left)

Positive cable:
P1=> to starter below the engine (shown on the second image)
P2=> to fuse box (shown on the third image)

Yes, again I have some small questions.

Q1> How do I address the issue that NAPA Positive Battery Cable only has two endpoints. I expect it has threeconnections(i.e. one to battery-, one to N1, the last one to N2)?

Q2> How do I address the red endpoint in NAPA Negative Battery Cable?
In the same situation, I expect it has three connections(i.e. one to battery+, one to P1, the last one to P2).

Q3> To remove the N2 from the engine, should I take extra care in case I damage the engine? Can I use WD-40 in case I cannot take it off. I am not sure here because the oil may cause connection problems.

Q4> To remove P1, should I take some precaution?

Sorry for these silly questions.

Thank you
Attached Thumbnails
Crack in battery terminal cable-img_5396.jpg   Crack in battery terminal cable-img_5399.jpg   Crack in battery terminal cable-img_5401.jpg   Crack in battery terminal cable-img_5402.jpg  


Last edited by q0987; 11-28-2012 at 09:28 PM.
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Old 11-28-2012, 10:45 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Ok you will need some a crescent wrench set, small socket set, and a small deep socket set and some steel wool. I just got off of work and took the photos.

Positive cable goes to

A) STARTER: (right under my Mobil 1 extended Oil filter)

1354166913_zps6b067b21.jpg photo by blkfordtaurusman | Photobucket

&




MEGAFUSE BOX: (look at the location of the tiny red wire).

Mobile Photobucket

The Negative cables go to

C: ENGINE BLOCK GROUND: (where my Q Power cable in connected)

Mobile Photobucket

& D) FIREWALL ground. (Use steel wool an get bare metal reflection before attaching it).

Mobile Photobucket

Ok hopefully it's self explanatory but I would buy the parts at Autozone or O'reillys and ask [Before you buy] if one of the clerks can put it on for you for $15 bucks. Jeff's advice for the audio shop is still your best bet. You can do it yourself though. As you saw I still have all my OEM FORD FACTORY wiring except for the starter. Everything else has at least one 0/1 gauge wire (overlapping) the TINY factory wires under my hood and sometimes two. I hope this helped you out.
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Last edited by Blkfordtaurusman; 11-28-2012 at 11:53 PM.
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Old 11-29-2012, 12:38 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by q0987 View Post
Hello all,

I have done some researches on my car and here is my finding:

Negative cable:

N1=> to car body (shown on last image on the right)
N2=> to engine (shown on the first image on the left)

Positive cable:
P1=> to starter below the engine (shown on the second image)
P2=> to fuse box (shown on the third image)

Yes, again I have some small questions.

Q1> How do I address the issue that NAPA Positive Battery Cable only has two endpoints. I expect it has threeconnections(i.e. one to battery-, one to N1, the last one to N2)? CORRECT.

Q2> How do I address the red endpoint in NAPA Negative Battery Cable?
In the same situation, I expect it has three connections(i.e. one to battery+, one to P1, the last one to P2). CORRECT.

Q3> To remove the N2 from the engine, should I take extra care in case I damage the engine? Can I use WD-40 in case I cannot take it off. I am not sure here because the oil may cause connection problems. HMMMMM. MINE CAME OF BUT? If you use WD40 I WOULD CLEAN (DEGREASE AS BEST AS YOU CAN)THE ENGINE BOLT AND NUT BEFORE REATTACHING THE NUT TO THE ENGINE BLOCK BOLT.

Q4> To remove P1, should I take some precaution? YES IF IT WON'T BUDGE WD-40. LET IT WORK ITS WAY BEFORE TURNING.

Sorry for these silly questions.

Thank you
Now after all this typing and picture taking I could have Drove to Shaumburg put on the Tsanomi Battery clamps, wrapped the ends that are subject to the elements with a generous air-tight electrical tape wrap to guarantee the integrity of the connection and made it back home already. Wrap it right and it won't give you a problem. Your car is 12 . You have 12 year old OEM Factory tape everywhere under your hood that's that old still going strong. What I do is apply 3x what is nescessarily to BE SURE. Triple redundancy gets it done every time.
If you want to drive out to chicago on Friday early afternoon with the Tsnamoi clamps; I'll put your clamps and your tape on in 10 minutes. Just donate the Hamilton to a charity of my choice.
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Old 11-29-2012, 02:21 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by byrondumas View Post
What I do is apply 3x what is nescessarily to BE SURE. Triple redundancy gets it done every time.
byrondumas, I think you have an electrical tape fetish!
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Old 11-29-2012, 08:27 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by behlinla View Post
I think you have an electrical tape fetish!
Cute. Very cute behilnla. Yeah, cant argue with that. I also use a rediculus amount of loom and heat shrink. All integrity critical connections get heatshrinked, loomed, and mummified in electrical tape.
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http://www.dailymotion.com/dm_501f09...#video=x166j82

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Old 11-29-2012, 09:59 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by byrondumas View Post
Ok you will need some a crescent wrench set, small socket set, and a small deep socket set and some steel wool. I just got off of work and took the photos.

Positive cable goes to

A) STARTER: (right under my Mobil 1 extended Oil filter)

1354166913_zps6b067b21.jpg photo by blkfordtaurusman | Photobucket

&




MEGAFUSE BOX: (look at the location of the tiny red wire).

Mobile Photobucket

The Negative cables go to

C: ENGINE BLOCK GROUND: (where my Q Power cable in connected)

Mobile Photobucket

& D) FIREWALL ground. (Use steel wool an get bare metal reflection before attaching it).

Mobile Photobucket

Ok hopefully it's self explanatory but I would buy the parts at Autozone or O'reillys and ask [Before you buy] if one of the clerks can put it on for you for $15 bucks. Jeff's advice for the audio shop is still your best bet. You can do it yourself though. As you saw I still have all my OEM FORD FACTORY wiring except for the starter. Everything else has at least one 0/1 gauge wire (overlapping) the TINY factory wires under my hood and sometimes two. I hope this helped you out.
I checked the battery terminal connection again last night. It feels very strong. But it seems everyone says that I should replace in case of problems in the cold winter.

I really appreciate your great help and thank you for your time.
Autozone local store doesn't have the 0/1 Tsnamoi gauge clamp so I will order it from Amazon instead.

Thank you

Last edited by q0987; 11-29-2012 at 10:05 AM.
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Old 11-29-2012, 10:06 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by byrondumas View Post
Cute. Very cute behilnla. Yeah, cant argue with that. I also use a rediculus amount of loom and heat shrink. All integrity critical connections get heatshrinked, loomed, and mummified in electrical tape.
I want to use the shrink tube.

May you tell me which product is best for this job?
Search results for: 'heat shrink'

Also, can I just use hair-dry or I have to buy heat-gun which costs around $30 in HF.

Thank you again
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Old 11-29-2012, 10:53 AM   #28 (permalink)
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I bought a heat gun at HF last year for ~$10???
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Old 11-29-2012, 11:01 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sheila View Post
I bought a heat gun at HF last year for ~$10???
The low price one has bad review. I am not sure whether the hair-dryer can work for it. Since I don't use heat gun much.

Best

Last edited by q0987; 11-29-2012 at 11:08 AM.
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Old 11-29-2012, 11:08 AM   #30 (permalink)
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If your blow dryer gets hot enough it may work... You get what you pay for. If the $10 one does the job though, buy it.

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