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Old 11-27-2012, 05:46 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default P0153 (O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response)

The shop told me that they saw this code while running the testing.
Engine light is NOT on so far.

Long term fuel trim - Bank 1: 13.28%
Short term fuel trim - Bank 1: -1.56%
O2 Sensor Voltage(B1S1): 100 mv
O2 Sensor (Post-Catalyst) (B1S2) : 805 mv

Long term fuel trim - Bank 2: 19.53%
Short term Fuel trim - Bank 2: -6.25%
O2 Sensor Voltage(B2S1): 520 mv
O2 Sensor (Post-Catalyst) (B2S2) : 715 mv


Q1> What may cause the problem?

Q2> Is this sensor same as LH heated oxygen sensor and please see the attached image on left side?

Q3> If it is, where I can find this special tool?
Socket, Exhaust Gas Oxygen Sensor
303-476 (T94P-9472-A)

Thank you
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P0153 (O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response)-img_5364.jpg   P0153 (O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response)-img_5365.jpg  

Last edited by q0987; 11-27-2012 at 07:23 PM.
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Old 11-27-2012, 07:30 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Yes, that's the o2 sensor referenced to by the po153. Bank#2 sensor#1. Iirc, there's just a lock tab to push or pry on the elec. conn. Harbor Freight Tools carries a variety of o2 sensor removal sockets for cheap. For that particular o2 sensor, I would simply use a 22mm (7/8") wrench.
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Old 11-27-2012, 07:35 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Those long term fuel trim numbers dont look good. I suspect you have an small to moderate vacuum leak that effects both banks of possibly MAF out of calibration. Possible PCV hose or grommet leak, etc.
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Old 11-27-2012, 08:55 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sheila View Post
Yes, that's the o2 sensor referenced to by the po153. Bank#2 sensor#1. Iirc, there's just a lock tab to push or pry on the elec. conn. Harbor Freight Tools carries a variety of o2 sensor removal sockets for cheap. For that particular o2 sensor, I would simply use a 22mm (7/8") wrench.
Hello Sheila,

I found the green electronic connector is very hard to reach.

Q1> As I said, the engine light is NOT on for now. Should I wait for it come on or I should do the replacement asap.
As Jeff said, it may cause by other problems.

Also I found this one which doesn't require cut/connect
1996 - 2000 Ford Taurus Ford Taurus Oxygen O2 Sensor UPSTREAM for Models with V6 3.0L (8th Vin Digit U, S, 1, or 2) at 1AAuto.com

Q2> Do you reach the connector from top or from bottom?
It seems to me that if I have to remove it from bottom I need to remove the shield.

Last edited by q0987; 11-27-2012 at 09:05 PM.
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Old 11-27-2012, 09:03 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Hello Jeff,

Is there a way that I verify it myself or I have to take it to a local shop?

Also if it is caused by leaking intake manifold gaskets, is it difficult to do it myself?

Thank you
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Old 11-27-2012, 09:14 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Easiest way to find a vacuum leak is the cigar smoke test in my opinion. Sorry if you're a non smoker like me, but a cigar every once in a while can't hurt! Pull a vacuum hose off somewhere and blow the smoke into the hose, repeat until you see smoke coming out somewhere else. That is the source of your leak!

The intake manifold gaskets aren't that bad to do. Upper is easy, lower is a bit harder. Make sure the smoke leaks out of there first... You may have to do the propane test actually to find the smaller leaks. Move a propane torch around an idling motor (UNLIT) until you hear the idle go up. There's your leak!

My guess since the code is pending is that it still hasn't happened enough to set the CEL on yet. It will slowly get worse and eventually it will turn on. The only reason we think something is wrong is because of those fuel trims. Go ahead and find the probable vacuum leak first, then check out the O2 sensor.
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Old 11-27-2012, 09:22 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Breeves002 View Post
Easiest way to find a vacuum leak is the cigar smoke test in my opinion. Sorry if you're a non smoker like me, but a cigar every once in a while can't hurt! Pull a vacuum hose off somewhere and blow the smoke into the hose, repeat until you see smoke coming out somewhere else. That is the source of your leak!

The intake manifold gaskets aren't that bad to do. Upper is easy, lower is a bit harder. Make sure the smoke leaks out of there first... You may have to do the propane test actually to find the smaller leaks. Move a propane torch around an idling motor (UNLIT) until you hear the idle go up. There's your leak!

My guess since the code is pending is that it still hasn't happened enough to set the CEL on yet. It will slowly get worse and eventually it will turn on. The only reason we think something is wrong is because of those fuel trims. Go ahead and find the probable vacuum leak first, then check out the O2 sensor.
Hello Breeves002,

Where can I find the a vacuum hose?

Thank you for detailed information. However, to me, those steps are not that easy. I assume I can only handle replacement of O2 sensor. But it seems that everyone puts the doubt in other places. So I will wait for now.

BTW: Is it an expensive repair for this leaking problems?

Thank you
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Old 11-28-2012, 05:36 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Can you provide a snapshot of the engine bay, because there was a change in PCV design around that year and I can't remember which type you have,
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Old 11-28-2012, 07:08 AM   #9 (permalink)
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CEL will not come on until long term fuel trims hit +/- 20 to 25% depending on the exact calibration of the PCM. I would look into the cause before then. Problems dont fix themselves, they only get worse.
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Old 11-28-2012, 09:13 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WJC View Post
Can you provide a snapshot of the engine bay, because there was a change in PCV design around that year and I can't remember which type you have,
Hello WJC,

I have taken four pictures for you.

Thank you
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