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Old 11-16-2012, 11:29 PM   #21 (permalink)
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You have the engine running so that the pump is involved. Idea is to push air to top of the reservoir. With the wheels off of the ground there is less resistance and a better chance of removing air. Do not hold at the stops at the end. just hit the end and return quickly. You have the power!!
For the record, stop leak is not the final chapter. Budget for a new pump and be ready when the seals puke on your driveway or garage floor. Reality!!

Last edited by downhill; 11-16-2012 at 11:32 PM. Reason: add on
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Old 11-17-2012, 10:07 AM   #22 (permalink)
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If you raise the vehicle & turn the steering wheel without the engine turning over, you may have the pump reservoir spill over.
Idling the engine allows the pump to circulate the aerated fluid back to the reservoir so the bubbles can pop.
If the fluid is Badly aerated, such that it looks like a pink milkshake, without applying a vacuum to the reservoir cap while the engine idles, it might take several cycles of idling the engine & turning the steering wheel lock to lock to bump the stops, to chase most all entrapped air back to the reservoir, stopping the engine so the bubbles have time to pop.

The aftermarket additive you used may deter the bubbles from popping, so the deair cycle may take longer.

Adding a slight vacuum through the reservoir cap vent hole, can hasten the deair cycle, by causing the bubbles to pop quicker & having the vacuum applied while the engine idles & you turn the steering wheel lock to lock to bump the stops, while the p/s pump circulates the aerated fluid back to the reservoir, Really cuts the deair time.

If you want to change the p/s fluid by using the turkey baster method to remove the fluid a little at a time, its better that not changing fluid at all, but a system flush with the P/S pump return line disconnected at the cooler, while a friend cranks the engine with the starter, is more complete, as it removes most all of the old oxidized fluid & debris its carring, from the pump, rack, cooler & lines, so it won't recirculate & mix with & contaminate the new fluid, weaken its ad pack & hasten the new fluids demise.

SO, if you want to Completely flush your power steering system of old fluid, while adding new, maybe consider having a friend help you do this routine http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/1520541-post9.html

It includes adding, or changing the P/S inline filter after the flush service, which you may or may not wish to do, but all of which you can do for Way less than $54!!!!

More thoughts for consideration, let us know how it goes.
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Old 11-17-2012, 11:03 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Alrighty, thanks. I'll play around with the car tomorrow when I have more time.

Though I think everybody is missing the parts where I said I already changed the fluid several months ago using the turkey baster method (and did it after running AutoRX in the system for several weeks) and that I work at Sears at would get a sizable discount on the fluid exchange service. My question was whether that service would definitely purge the air currently in the system.

I also have no sort of vacuum that would work for this.

Last edited by DN101; 11-17-2012 at 11:08 AM.
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Old 11-17-2012, 12:45 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DN101 View Post
Alrighty, thanks. I'll play around with the car tomorrow when I have more time.

Though I think everybody is missing the parts where I said I already changed the fluid several months ago using the turkey baster method (and did it after running AutoRX in the system for several weeks) and that I work at Sears at would get a sizable discount on the fluid exchange service. My question was whether that service would definitely purge the air currently in the system.

I also have no sort of vacuum that would work for this.
Sorry, I forgot to mention that also you need to crank the car with the number 10 fuse removed. Then you can start it after you get some bubbles out. Don't crank it for more than 30 seconds, then wait 1 minute for the starter to cool. Probably best to bleed it this way first, but you could always skip it and just start the car. Like I said, it's best to have someone help you. I did this yesterday and I had fluid wanting to shoot back up even with the engine running, just cup your hand over the top of the spout and try to create a seal, it will stop wanting to do that after a few minutes.

I think the Sears idea is good, if they use the right fluid, why not? I changed nearly all of the P/S fluid in my van yesterday (1l of 1.2l) and it was a nightmare. If you can find the service reasonably priced, and they use the correct fluid, just do it! They probably have the vacuum.
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Old 11-17-2012, 03:11 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DN101 View Post
Alrighty, thanks. I'll play around with the car tomorrow when I have more time.

Though I think everybody is missing the parts where I said I already changed the fluid several months ago using the turkey baster method (and did it after running AutoRX in the system for several weeks) and that I work at Sears at would get a sizable discount on the fluid exchange service. My question was whether that service would definitely purge the air currently in the system.

I also have no sort of vacuum that would work for this.
Lets think about this some more, of course you have a vacuum source, we all do, the intake manafold side of the engine!!!! McGiver/Fashion a needle to a section of vaccum hose, insert the needle into the power steering reservoir cap vent hole, seal it with Duct Seal, clay, or other easy to remove product, "T" connect the other end of the vacuum line into any handy under hood vacuum line source. Start the engine & it'll apply what ever intake side idle vacuum the engine produces & it'll be enough to deair the p/s fluid.
OR hook the tubing up to your mighty vac, or the like & pump away to create you own reservoir vacuum source.

The reason for suggesting a full fluid pump out is that the turkey baster method doesn't remove all of the old fluid, aftermarket additives that might be reacting with copper/bronze parts in the system, or debris & is the reason for suggesting a full fluid pumpout, as it'll get most all of the old oxidized fluid, additives & debris out of the system, so they don't mix with & contaminate the new fluid, deplete its additives & hasten its demise.

Here is how I do a full p/s system pump out with a couple qts of fluid. http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/1520541-post9.html
After this proceedure I installed an inline filter into the low pressure p/s pump return line at the cooler end, to filter debris. You may not have a filter, or choose to do this, but could do it for Way less than $54, if you just opt for the 2qts of tranny fluid for the flush.

As has been said, if you really had a system leak that the additive has stopped from seal swelling agents, plan on saving up for what ever was leaking, as it'll likely soon fail.

More thoughts for pondering, let us know how it goes.
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Last edited by pawpaw; 11-17-2012 at 04:20 PM.
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