Rear Brake Pad Replacement - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-24-2012, 11:29 AM Thread Starter
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Rear Brake Pad Replacement

I am in need of replacing my right rear brake pads (Yes pads I own a wagon) and need to know if i need to mess with the parking brake at all. Also what kind of parking brake does it have (Internal Drum or actually uses the disk) I felt my rotor for the side the even though it does have a gap between the surface and the rusted parts where the brakes do not touch, I have decided to reuse them (Oh lord in heaven yes I know it is bad but I am kinda broke ATM with moving so as long as it works) I watched Eric the Car Guy's Video :
I figure it would pretty much be the same except for the taking the rotor off parts. Seems like a 30 minute job (For me an hour with some moderate cursing) One last thing: I don't have vice clamps for clamping the hose, so would it be ok just to open the bleeder and do without, maybe open the master cylinder cap? or will that hurt it? ~Marc
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-24-2012, 11:38 AM
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I open the reservoir cap and you will need a special tool for moving the piston all the way in. The notch on pad and the piston must align before reassembly.
The rotors would only cost $30 to turn before pads. Do not use vice grips on hose, if hose is old will break on the inside of hose. Take one side apart and take pictures as you go. Get a good manual or check the topic finder for more info. You can rent tool for the back pistons for good alignment with pads back.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-24-2012, 12:13 PM
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No, you don't have to mess with the e-brake for rear pad replacement, just make sure it's (e-brake) released prior repair, lol. No internal drum. Just remove the 2 13mm bolts and pull (pry) caliper top off. I would recommend pulling the slide pins out to inspect, clean and relube with never-seize. To pull the rotor, you have to remove the 2 15mm caliper mount bolts. I wouldn't open a bleeder unless piston won't retract (screw in) easily. If you do open the bleeder, remember to bleed that wheel afterwards.

Last edited by sheila; 10-24-2012 at 12:26 PM.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-24-2012, 01:03 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by downhill View Post
I open the reservoir cap and you will need a special tool for moving the piston all the way in. The notch on pad and the piston must align before reassembly.
The rotors would only cost $30 to turn before pads. Do not use vice grips on hose, if hose is old will break on the inside of hose. Take one side apart and take pictures as you go. Get a good manual or check the topic finder for more info. You can rent tool for the back pistons for good alignment with pads back.
Yes but i don't have the $30 sadly. What are some good pads to use?
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-24-2012, 02:36 PM
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Since you will want to replace rotors when you are financially able, you may as well go with the cheapest pads you can find. The rear brakes are not as critical to stopping as the front.

That way, you can replace the pads the same time as you get new rotors and throw the interim cheap pads away.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-24-2012, 02:39 PM
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I would recommend the least expensive you can find as well if you don't have the money. The only disadvantage to cheap pads in my opinion (for normal driving), is a LOT more brake dust. After putting cheap pads on, my alloys get disgustingly black with dust after a few weeks. Ceramic pads are the best for any normal application, but cost about double the cheap ones.

These are the REALLY cheap stuff: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...575836_0_6961_

Never used that brand (nor will I ever), but if you use them for a year or less I wouldn't worry... Of course depends how many miles you put on in a year.

Sam

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Moved On: 2000 Sable LS Premium Duratec

Last edited by Sam; 10-24-2012 at 02:42 PM.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-25-2012, 06:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Mark Oreman View Post
Yes but i don't have the $30 sadly. What are some good pads to use?
I had back surgery last year so I know how tight $$$ can be. I have been picking dumpsters for copper and aluminum for my car parts fund. I make about $50-100 a week in scrap aluminum and copper. Takes a few hours a week. I do not have TV or 4G so that frees me up to do something with my time. Just bought a NEW starter for my 2003 SE with my scrap fund.
Even when broke I never cheat with my front brakes ~~~
Cheap Raybestos or what you can afford. I use a lot of Napa because warranty is so good and I buy a lot from them. Montana is limited in choices. I live an hour from the closest stores. Napa gives me military discount which always helps~~
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-25-2012, 08:44 AM
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I never get the lower rug pads. They seem cheaper at buying time but they wear out much faster, don't have the stopping power in emergency situations and leads to more work for me latter (replacement).
Go at least to the middle, like the "Gold" pads from Advance Auto Parts.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-25-2012, 12:24 PM
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I sympathize with your situation. The OEM rear brake pad is an organic material so don't let anyone talk you into ceramics or semi metalics.

Look on line for Advanced Auto coupon codes. You can often find one for 15% off. Buy on line and pick up at your local store. I assume you live near one.

I have had the cheap rear pads separate from the backing plate. I agree with SoNick. Get the middle pad if you can swing the extra money.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-25-2012, 12:46 PM
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BTW: AFAIK "Organic/NAO" is same thing with "Ceramic".
http://www.performancefriction.com/R...etterhead2.pdf
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