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Old 11-05-2012, 04:26 PM   #31 (permalink)
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I finally got the plastic lever off the pivot shaft, along with the metal arm from the upper plastic pivot shaft. My problem was that I was not placing enough downward pressure on the tab as I was concerned about breaking it. I manually turned the upper pivot shaft back and forth and it appears to be functioning as I can hear it clunk with each back and forth movement. If I release it at any point while moving it, it returns to the same place which would be in the way of removing the heater core. I will need to hold it up when I pull out the heater core. Apparently this is the secondary blend door. Is there a way to check the primary blend door before I install the heater core. Any other things I should check for?
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Old 11-09-2012, 05:35 PM   #32 (permalink)
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I was confident that it would not be that big of a job to change out the heater core, as I think I read every article that was on the internet. I certainly was in for a big surprise, fortunately I got the job done. Unfortunately, I still have no heat. What now?
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Old 11-09-2012, 07:25 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Can you check the temps again like you did in #3? Are you sure the blend door is moving and everything? Did you purge all the air out of the system after replacing the water pump? Serpentine belt back on?
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Old 11-10-2012, 07:21 PM   #34 (permalink)
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The temp at the hose which comes off the water pumpwas 186. The hose travels about a foot to a plastic tee. We now have two hoses. One heads towards the heater core from the tee and is 126 degrees at the tee. When that same hose reaches the fire wall and goes into the heater core it is 197 degrees. The bypass hose was 177 degrees at the tee. The other hose leaving the fire wall from the heater core(lower of the two) was 210 degrees. This hose (corroded metal line) went into the firewall on the driver’s side and at that point was 138 degrees. The large radiator hose that goes into the thermostat housing was 187 degrees. The hose coming out of the side next to the thermostat housing was 218 degrees. This hose meets a plastic tee, one going to the bypass hose 170 degrees and the other into the fire wall ( drivers side) 172 degrees. The plastic coolant tank was 165 degrees. I took these temps several times and when the electric fans come on the temperatures can drop by 20 degrees within a minute, with the exception of the hose coming off the water pump and the bypass at the tee. These temps stay fairly constant
When I removed the plastic lever/pivot shaft and metal arm I could lift up on the plastic pivot arm with about a pound of force. I could feel that it was connected to something. If I would slide my finger off of it, it would respond with a solid clunk.
Not sure how to purge the air out of the system. I just started the car and ran it for about a half hour adding coolant till it appeared to be flowing smoothly.
The serpentine belt is on and all the pulleys are turning. I did have to purchase a new belt tensioner as I must have somehow broke it when I took it off.
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Old 11-10-2012, 08:10 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Just FYI, the flow is coming from the thermostat housing and ends up at the water pump. So it looks like you have 218 at the thermostat housing, 210 at the core inlet, and 197 at the core outlet with a bypass temp of 177. So your heater core should be nice and warm now. So if you still don't have heat I would say you have a blend door problem at this point. Did you confirm the blend door shaft is turning when you adjust the temperature from cold to hot?
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Old 11-10-2012, 11:37 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Yes, One of the first things I did was to remove that metal covering on the left side of the blend door actuator motor and monitor the movement of the linkage. As I turned the heat control from cold to hot I could see the linkage move and hear a thud when it ended the cycle from cold to hot.
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Old 11-11-2012, 07:36 AM   #37 (permalink)
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If the blend door shaft is split is will not stay closed even if you hear a thud. The linkage will move but the blend door will only move until it hits resistance. If you did not physically look at the connection between the motor and the blend door you might have missed your problem. I have changed a lot of them and was told by owners that it was not the door.
Look at the door shaft at the bottom, they split up the side of the shaft and spread open when they have any resistance it will stop moving. Just sayen~~~
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Old 11-11-2012, 02:24 PM   #38 (permalink)
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When you say look at the connection between the motor and the shaft, are you talking about the spline type shaft that comes out of the rear of the actuator motor and goes into the heater box? I just removed my glove box again and can see that the steel rod is moving the upper plastic pivot arm when I change the temp setting. The pivot arm I am referring to is the one that I had to lift up on in order to clear the heater core when sliding it out of its housing. It is also the arm that takes about a pound of pressure to lift up on. If the part you are referring to is the problem would one of those Heatertreater contraptions address that issue?
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Old 11-13-2012, 07:37 AM   #39 (permalink)
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How do you purge the air out of the system ?? I already tried cleaning my heater core 2x and still no heat , and getting ready to change my thermostat again since my car seems taking a long time to heat up and seems running cold on highway speeds .
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Old 11-13-2012, 11:33 AM   #40 (permalink)
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Well, I removed the actuator motor and linkage and inspected it for abnormalities. I could not not see anything that jumped out at me as being abnormal. With the actuator out and plugged in I again cycled the control back and forth from hot to cold and observed the shaft moving. I was thinking that maybe the shaft was not rotating as far as it should. Could this be a possibility, or am I just grasbing for straws?
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