2000 Duratec Tune-Up Plans - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-21-2012, 07:07 PM Thread Starter
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2000 Duratec Tune-Up Plans

So basically, I want my car to be in good shape for the upcoming winter. I currently have a rough idle, especially on startup. The car wants to die and is pretty rough. Sometimes the check engine light (CEL) blinks, sometimes it's steady. The code that was pulled was for a cylinder #3 misfire. Bummer.

In any event, it sounds like a good opportunity to get things fixed up on the top end! The car just rolled over 200,000 miles, and there are things that could use an upgrade. For example, after 200k, my cooling system gave out, and the plastic Y-pipe near the battery that the coolent flows through basically crumbled away. Had to replace it. I think this had something to do with my water pump failing as well. Either way, the car has a new water pump, a new Y-pipe from NAPA, and the coolant was flushed/replaced.

Onto the misfire...

As there's no way I'm getting my arms back there to do the work on the back 3 cylinders, I'm planning to yank the upper intake manifold (UIM) and go to town. Here's what I have planned so far:

Replace all 6 spark plugs: NGK Laser Iridium (6044; #ITR5F13)
Replace back 3 coil-on-plugs (COP): Delphi (GN10192)
Replace all 6 UIM seals/gaskets: DNJ (IG4192)
Replace Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) Valve: Motorcraft (EV-243)
Replace PCV Hose: Motorcraft (KCV-117)
Clean EGR Valve
Replace EGR Valve Gasket: Part#???

I want the top end to be good for another 100k miles, or until the car is junked. I want to do all 3 coils in the back so I don't have to do it again, I can do the fronts as the need arises in the future.

Will someone verify the part numbers are correct, and offer any other suggestions of things to check whilst I have her tore apart in the near future?

Thanks!

Oh! Will you guys suggest a good scanning tool for a driveway mechanic like myself? Budget: Less than $200. Must be able to work for my 2000 Taurus and my 1995 Eclipse.
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-21-2012, 07:46 PM
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All coil on plugs for best performance bank to bank~~ Not that much $$ I still am partial to Auto light fine wire or double plat. Seems to like the motor that way!! All personal. NGK is good product. If you get 50k more you will be doing good~~
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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-21-2012, 08:26 PM
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Dunno about part#s, but it sounds like you got your bases covered. Misfire on your 2000tec, check/replace plug(s) and coil(s). Harbor Freight Tools has a decent inexpensive scan tool selection. Or, look into the Actron line available at most parts stores.

Last edited by sheila; 09-21-2012 at 08:55 PM.
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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-22-2012, 05:04 PM
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NGK plugs are good but the Laser Irridium's are complete and total overkill........ and IMO, a waste of $14 EACH. Stock Motorcraft Platinums were good for 100K miles.

I have Autolite double Plats in my 01 Duratec and that runs smooth as silk for about 1/6th the price..........

John
'01 Sable LS Premium Wagon Duratec, 99 Dodge Durango 318 V8

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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-22-2012, 05:43 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by downhill View Post
All coil on plugs for best performance bank to bank~~ Not that much $$ I still am partial to Auto light fine wire or double plat. Seems to like the motor that way!! All personal. NGK is good product. If you get 50k more you will be doing good~~
I hear you regarding the coils, but I know at least 1 if not 2 have been replaced before, I can't justify buying 6 new ones. I'll do the back 3 new, inspect all 6 and put the 3 best looking ones in the front.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sousa632 View Post
NGK plugs are good but the Laser Irridium's are complete and total overkill........ and IMO, a waste of $14 EACH. Stock Motorcraft Platinums were good for 100K miles.

I have Autolite double Plats in my 01 Duratec and that runs smooth as silk for about 1/6th the price..........
I suppose, assuming the car will go to 300k is asking a lot, I'll go with the Autolite Double Platinum APP104 then.

Also the EGR gaskets I went for were the cheaper Fel-Pro 70149 and 70948.

Updated:

Replace all 6 spark plugs: Autolite APP104
Replace back 3 coil-on-plugs (COP): Delphi (GN10192)
Replace all 6 UIM seals/gaskets: Fel-Pro MS92586
Replace Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) Valve: Motorcraft (EV-243)
Replace PCV Hose: Motorcraft (KCV-117)
Clean EGR Valve
Replace EGR Valve Gaskets: Fel-Pro 70149 and 70948
Clean Throttle Body

Well, all of this stuff is shipping from multiple locations which really hurt my cost, so I changed a few brands to get everything to ship from 2 locations to save a little money. Oh well.
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-22-2012, 10:57 PM
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Fwiw, I wouldn't put the coil from #3 cyl. on the front bank no matter how good it looks, lol.
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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-24-2012, 08:10 AM
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Rockauto have the NGK Iridium IX for $6.19 each.
Don't forget about the 10% discount code.

2000 Duratec SE White Wagon
<span style="font-family:Optima">Voom: FPS X-Cal2
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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-24-2012, 04:38 PM Thread Starter
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Little late. Didn't know about a 10% discount code.............................................. .................................................. ..................................

I did use a 5% code from retailmenot however.

And I won't be re-using coil #3, I could have worded it better
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-24-2012, 07:59 PM
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I'm jumping in too late, but I would strongly advise doing your valve cover gaskets while youre in there. Cheap, and very little extra labor. You will start smelling oil fumes if they're original.

"Spare the duct tape, spoil the job."
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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-12-2012, 11:50 AM Thread Starter
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Ok, so it's been a while since I posted in this thread. I received the parts from RockAuto and performed most of the work I intended to do.

I replaced the intake manifold seals, all 6 spark plugs, put the 3 new coils on the back and chose 3 good ones for up front. I replaced the EGR valve gaskets. Unfortunately, the PCV pipe was the wrong fitment but the old one looked good. Also, I couldn't get at the PCV valve itself to replace it, oh well. I found a vacuum hose with severe cracks in it (somewhere under the intake or TB, close to where it connects to the UIM). Didn't have a replacement so I wrapped it up with a bunch of electrical tape for now.

On to the real problems. I found there to be a LOT of oil in the upper part of my engine. The whole UIM had a thin film of oil inside it. The UIM seals had oil on them. There was oil in some vacuum lines. There was oil on a few spark plugs, but a LOT of oil on the rear, left most plug, coil and spark plug well (the one I suspected to be bad, #3?).

After I started the car up, I ran it for a long time and the check engine light did not come back, however the car idled just as badly as it did before. Now I don't know what to do The car has been parked for more than 2 months now as it's not very driveable.

I uploaded a few photos of the torn apart top end to Photobucket. Please have a look and see if anything can be deciphered from the pictures as to what I should do next

2000 Ford Taurus Photos by PontiacGT | Photobucket
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