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Old 11-12-2012, 11:55 AM   #11 (permalink)
Sam
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Did you check for pending codes, even thought the light didn't turn on.

You probably have more vacuum leaks. No coolant in the oil/oil in coolant, right?

Take a piece of PVC pipe the right size and you can cut little groves in it and use it to get the PCV valve out. Did you shine a flashlight down in there? Did it look stuck open or closed? Should have been easy with the manifold off.

Check compression too, do a leak down test or a wet/dry compression test. The engine may just be really old.... I'd just test compression to make sure that isn't what is causing your problem. I would do this before throwing any more parts at it because if compression is a problem (specifically on #3 cylinder), then no use buying a bunch of new parts.
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Old 11-12-2012, 01:14 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Oil in the intake manifold is normal (some comes through the PCV). Oil in the spark plug wells is not normal and can cause misfires. Replace the valve cover gaskets and the spark plug O-rings as WJC recommended.

#3 is the driver's side rear. Is that the one with all the oil?

Rough idle could be more vacuum leaks or just that hose you wrapped up. Electrical tape doesn't work very well at all.
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Old 11-12-2012, 05:53 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Breeves002 View Post
Did you check for pending codes, even thought the light didn't turn on.

You probably have more vacuum leaks. No coolant in the oil/oil in coolant, right?

Take a piece of PVC pipe the right size and you can cut little groves in it and use it to get the PCV valve out. Did you shine a flashlight down in there? Did it look stuck open or closed? Should have been easy with the manifold off.

Check compression too, do a leak down test or a wet/dry compression test. The engine may just be really old.... I'd just test compression to make sure that isn't what is causing your problem. I would do this before throwing any more parts at it because if compression is a problem (specifically on #3 cylinder), then no use buying a bunch of new parts.
I don't have a compression tester (on my list of tools to buy) so I did not check compression yet.

I probably do have more vacuum leaks, it's a 13 year old car.

I have been losing oil, but it's been slow and I assumed an engine gasket as I've seen dripping from under the car before.

Should have been easy to get the PCV valve out is what I heard as well, which is why I bought a spare, but there was no way for me to get at it with all the coolant hoses in the way!

I don't have a scanner tool (another on my list) so I don't know about the codes other than the check engine light shut off and never came back on.

Quote:
Originally Posted by behlinla View Post
Oil in the intake manifold is normal (some comes through the PCV). Oil in the spark plug wells is not normal and can cause misfires. Replace the valve cover gaskets and the spark plug O-rings as WJC recommended.

#3 is the driver's side rear. Is that the one with all the oil?

Rough idle could be more vacuum leaks or just that hose you wrapped up. Electrical tape doesn't work very well at all.
The one with the oil is passenger side rear, or back left looking from the front of the car working on it.

What size vacuum hose do these engines take? Are the diameters standard throughout, or does it vary depending on the area?
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Old 11-12-2012, 06:03 PM   #14 (permalink)
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So you have oil on the #1 plug. The plugs are ordered like this looking at the engine straight on:

1 2 3
4 5 6

If you have an android phone you can get a code reader to work with it for under $20 and it will do a lot more than a $50 code reader from autozone.

The diamater varies. For instance, the EGR vacuum tubes behind the manifold are tiny while the PCV is very large.

Oh, and leaking oil is probably your valve cover gasket on the back bank. Mine is leaking too. Switch to 5w-30 oil to slow the leak. It isn't that hard of a fix if you are good at spinning wrenches under the hood (seems you are since you replaced UIM). You should have replaced that while the UIM/LIM was off!
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Old 11-12-2012, 06:08 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Breeves002 View Post
So you have oil on the #1 plug. The plugs are ordered like this looking at the engine straight on:

1 2 3
4 5 6

If you have an android phone you can get a code reader to work with it for under $20 and it will do a lot more than a $50 code reader from autozone.

The diamater varies. For instance, the EGR vacuum tubes behind the manifold are tiny while the PCV is very large.

Oh, and leaking oil is probably your valve cover gasket on the back bank. Mine is leaking too. Switch to 5w-30 oil to slow the leak. It isn't that hard of a fix if you are good at spinning wrenches under the hood (seems you are since you replaced UIM). You should have replaced that while the UIM/LIM was off!
Well, the goofy mechanic who fixed my coolant system when I broke down on the road....JUST before the CEL came on and it ran like ass the first time...pulled the code and said Cylinder 3 Misfire, then reached his hand to the back coil on the left side to see if it was seated. That's why I assumed that was the back one. Then, add to it that that one was full of oil, I figured that was #3. But if you say so.

And I think I've been running 10-30 but I can't recall, wouldn't 5-30 be thinner and leak easier? *confused*

And this is the first time I've ever taken off an UIM so it was a learning experience and considering the car is mostly undriveable I can't make things a whole lot worse if I dig deeper

I DO have an android phone. What is the app, what cable do I need and why is it better?
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Old 11-12-2012, 06:24 PM   #16 (permalink)
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You should either run 5w or 0w oil. Remember with oil the first number is the viscosity when cold. You want it to be lower so the oil can get to the upper engine components quicker when it starts up. The second number is the viscosity when hot. It won't change the rate of the leak if you change from 10w-30 to 5w-30 since they are the same viscosity when hot. I would go to 5w-30 if you have very cold temps where you are. Maybe even 0w-30 if they get below 0f. Ford legally has to recommend 5w-20 due to EPA claims at it raises gas milage, however these engines were originally designed to run on 5w-30.

It is called torque, and you need this: Super Mini ELM327 V1 5 OBD II 2 OBD 2 Bluetooth Auto Scan Scanner Torque Android | eBay

You can do an auction for one if you want. It gives much more than just codes. It can also give you live data about your engine such as fuel trims, fuel pressure, etc. I haven't actually used it, but a lot of members on here vouch for it!

Out of curiosity... did your car overheat before? You said you had cooling system problems.
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Old 11-12-2012, 06:38 PM   #17 (permalink)
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My friend was driving my car home following me after I picked up a different car and he called me asking if it always got this hot? I said no and we pulled into town and I found a biiiig coolant leak. Fought with it in a parking lot for a few hours, replacing a plastic Y-pipe (behind the battery, 2 hoses go into it from the back and one from the front, with a vacuum line on top) that had basically crumbled away. Put in new part, filled coolant and started her up. Next I noticed the water pump gave out, as it was leaking on the other side (maybe some plastic parts got into the system, who knows). At that point I had it towed to a mechanic to fix the coolant system.

It did overheat, but not drastically and it never had before when I was driving.

Now, it was when I picked the car up from the mechanic that the rough idle started and the CEL came on. Obviously, I went straight back inside and was like WTF? They pulled it back into the garage and scanned the code, said cylinder 3 misfire, cleared the code. The rough idle cleared up a bit and I drove it a few days but it came back. Really rough idle, like it wants to die.

So thats the backstory there.

5-30, yes, my manual states 5-30 so that's what I've been running. Valvoline MaxLife 5w-30.

That app sounds awesome, but is there a version that includes OBDI for my '95 GSX?
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Old 11-12-2012, 06:48 PM   #18 (permalink)
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The reason I ask is that you could have a bad head if it got hot enough which can cause misfires.... I just made this misfire write up. It is still ongoing editing and should be actually live tomorrow, but it is in the test forum now: http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/74-t...3490-test.html

It may help you out with your diagnosis. Still should do a compression test if you get the tools and chance. Leak down test is ideal.

No, OBD-I you'll need to get an actual reader... which are expensive... For around $20 you can get an OBD-II reader on your phone that does the same if not more as a $300 scan tool...
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Old 01-07-2013, 04:21 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Sorry it's been so long since my last post in this thread. I basically parked the car for a few months while I was finishing up school, and the holidays.

I finally received my compression tester! So, as I was still getting rough idle and the repair shop had me scared about misfire, off came the UIM, coils and plugs for the test.

I did a dry test on each cylinder twice, and the results were, I think, extremely good. In order from rear left -> rear right, front left -> front right cylinders:

#1) 226psi, 222psi
#2) 227psi, 229psi
#3) 213psi, 224psi
#4) 226psi, 226psi
#5) 216psi, 218psi
#6) 216psi, 221psi

Taking the higher values of each cylinder, the greatest difference was between #2 and #5 (11psi), which is only a 4.8% deviation from the max observed. Not bad for a 13 year old car!

Needless to say, compression is not my problem, and I don't plan to junk her quite yet. I took her into the shop to have them diagnose.

They came back with a vacuum leak............on the LIM gaskets. Super. Not only did I have the UIM off twice, I also have the LIM gaskets on the seat of the car, next to the uninstalled PCV valve, as I wasn't confident in my skills/didn't know anything about it as far as fixing it.

They quoted me $200 for diagnostics and replacement. I told them I'd just pay for the diagnostics and I'll fix it myself, now having read up on how to do it. It really doesn't seem much more difficult.

SO. The next time I have a chance I plan to do this repair and hopefully cure my rough idle.

On a side note, there is a vacuum hose I should replace, as it is only repaired with electrical tape for now. It is about 4-5" in length, and seemed to run from the bottom of the throttle body onto a metal pipe that I don't know where it goes. This hose is positioned vertically, basically under the intake setup. Can someone tell me the part number for this hose, or at least give me a size so I can replace this while I'm there?

Also, having read other threads, since I'm taking this all apart again, I want it to be the last time. I think I'll go ahead and replace the valve cover gaskets as well. Hopefully this is fairly straightforward?

One last thing: The PCV pipe I ordered (KCV117) was NOT the reinforced one that I've seen others get, and it didn't look even CLOSE to what was on the car already. The bends were not the same at all. So basically I have this hose sitting around now. RockAuto lists ONLY KCV117 for my 2000 Duratec, but per THIS THREAD, one would need to order KCV116 instead. I did a part search, and THAT part is what looks like mine.

Is RockAuto wrong? EDIT: after reading that entire post, it seems that even motorcraft lists it incorrectly. KCV116 should have been my purchase *slaps forehead* Good news is that my current one looked fine with no cracks when inspected. Maybe I'll just forget it then.

Last edited by Silver71; 01-07-2013 at 04:55 PM.
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Old 03-29-2013, 02:28 PM   #20 (permalink)
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On a side note, there is a vacuum hose I should replace, as it is only repaired with electrical tape for now. It is about 4-5" in length, and seemed to run from the bottom of the throttle body onto a metal pipe that I don't know where it goes. This hose is positioned vertically, basically under the intake setup. Can someone tell me the part number for this hose, or at least give me a size so I can replace this while I'm there?
Ok all, it's been a long while since I've posted, but tomorrow I plan to fix the car now that it's warmer outside. I have a repair manual (yay!), new LIM gaskets, new valve cover gaskets, new fuel filter, and RTV sealant. Fingers crossed, hopefully she will be back to normal by tomorrow night

As to my previous question, does anyone know the part number or size of the vacuum hose I described? I'd like to get that replaced too.
*Edit*: On THIS PAGE, step number 7 shows a picture of it, next to the PCV valve hose under the TB.

Last edited by Silver71; 03-29-2013 at 04:03 PM.
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