AC Compressor Removal on 05 w/ 3.0L OHV - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-31-2012, 09:20 AM Thread Starter
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AC Compressor Removal on 05 w/ 3.0L OHV

The AC Compressor clutch has failed on our 05 Taurus with 3.0L OHV (VIN U) engine, took to a reputable auto AC repair facility and the guy said getting the compressor out of this car is a nightmare and does not want to do the job.
I have searched the forum and seems that some threads talk about getting the compressor out from the top after removing right side radiator fan, PS pump and Alternator, others take out from the bottom by lowering sub frame and a few other components.
My question is can someone with this model Taurus and engine that has removed the AC compressor let me know if taking out the top is right way to go.
AC shop has evacuated the refrigerant for me and I am going to pick up a new Denso AC Compressor with Clutch from Rock Auto and go at it my self, I am confident I can do the job but just trying to get some first hand insight to make sure I am not wasting time trying to take out the top side if that won't work on this model/engine.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-31-2012, 11:17 AM
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I believe you can just buy a clutch coil assembly and replace that. No?
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-31-2012, 12:35 PM
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I'm in the process of doing this right now and have posted several questions as to the best way to remove it on my 01 Duratech equipped Taurus. Note, not an 05. Regardless, I got no response, thus I compiled information from past postings and just pulled it the other night. On my 01, with the Duratech, it is a @#$%@!!! After dislodging the compressor, I was hopeful that I could get it out on the passenger side, but that was not physically possible, as the motor mount obstructs removal. I turned that compressor every which way to remove it and it just was not happening. I then removed both fans, the fuse box, a radiator bypass tube bolted to the exhaust where I was then able to get it out by pulling it up through the area where the fuse box was.

As to the clutch itself, there are those here who have replaced it while the compressor was still in the car....not sure of the model year. I thought about doing that, as it was not my compressor that was bad, but rather the clutch. However, my car is an 01 with 225k on it, and I did not want to risk putting a new clutch on a compressor that may soon need work. And, from looking at things, removing that clutch with compressor on car is no easy job either. Ford wanted $700 for new clutch and $900 for whole new AC Compressor. That ought to tell you something. And, the clutch by itself is not a whole lot cheaper than the compressor with clutch.

Not sure I've helped you out any, but I do sympathize with you. I'll be installing my new compressor this weekend.

Good luck to you!!!
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-31-2012, 01:12 PM
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If this is a Vulcan as the OP states remove the Fans, the Power distribution block (2 clips) and then unbolt the compressor (4 bolts and A/C lines) then fish the compressor out towards the right and you will have clearence to take out your compressor from the top.

I watched a mobile A/C repair guy replace my whole compressor in 20 minutes this way, good luck and make sure you have the system evacuated before you disconnect the lines!


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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-31-2012, 06:31 PM
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If it is just the clutch, do not need to remove compressor. Changed the AC clutch, bearing, coil on a 2002 Duratec. Did not need to remove compressor.
Could also be AC clutch bearing and coil. To measure coil resistance, 4 ohms is good. Shorted out is bad. How to fix? See below link and search for other how to threads. Remove right tire. Remove right top strut bolts, right sway bar link bolts, plastic covers near AC. Support and raise car by frame to rear of subframe. Jack on subframe. Remove right subframe bolts. Undo any hoses, vacuum lines that will be stretched by lowering subframe such as air vacuum hoses near power brake. Lower right side of subframe. Remove serpentine belt by wrapping a towel around highest part of belt and pull hard. Will move tensioner enough to move belt off PS and AC pulleys. Remove 8mm center bolt. Remove clutch snap ring. Remove clutch, bearing, coil if needed. Replace. Adjust gap with shims. Not sure why mine went bad. Had bad ground wire to negative battery terminal causing low voltage. Might need to change the AC clutch fuse if it is blown. Mine was a 10 amp under the hood.

Last edited by midday; 08-31-2012 at 06:37 PM.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-04-2012, 09:47 AM Thread Starter
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I was looking under the hood Saturday and I think that if the power steering pump and bracket holding PS pump is removed you then have full access to AC compressor and should come straight up without taking the radiator fans off. on the 3.0L OHV engine there is definitely more room to work than I remember on my 97 DOHC engine.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-20-2013, 01:00 PM
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Wink Compressor and Drier replacement.

rcp...LOL. I am getting ready to replace my compressor on my 2006 Vulcan. I have had the steering pump out to replace it last year, so am familiar with what you are saying about taking it out straight up....and I think you are probably right. I have also read about the via the fan removal route..but my problem is that I am also replacing the drier, etc and flushing it out. I am fact finding at this point and wondered how you ended up doing it. I will post the correct way with pictures some time next week as we are due for rain for the next several days. If you come back on here. please update.
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