01 Taurus Flexplate Problem - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-09-2012, 01:43 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Chapter: Northeast
Posts: 13
Rep Power: 0
 
Trader Score: 0 reviews
01 Taurus Flexplate Problem

The dealership has told me I have a cracked flexplate. I realize that the book lists this as 8.1 hours of labor, but I believe I read somewhere that there is a shorter step to replace this without disconnecting & dropping the engine/transmission. Something about sliding the transmission over to get enough clearance to box-end wrench this out.

Anyone know of a way to do this without disconnecting the transmission?

2001 Ford Taurus 3.0 Vulcan "U".
nfc91095 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-09-2012, 03:19 PM
Technical Advisor
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Blythewood, SC 29016
Chapter: Southeast
Posts: 17,410
Rep Power: 103
     
Trader Score: 7 reviews
Send a message via AIM to bull geek Send a message via MSN to bull geek
Since you have a Vulcan you may, just may have enough room.

Take off the Y pipe under the car.

Disconnect wiring connectors. Cables, heater hoses @ the firewall etc. Disconnect the serp belt. Disconnect the AC compressor. Remove the cooling fans. Line the area in cardboard to protect the rad. Strap AC comp out of the way.

Get a cherry picker, hook the engine.

Get a jack under the car with a 2x6 or 2 of them bolted together, and brace the transmission by the pan.

Take the bolts around the bellhousing off the trans (IIRC 6 of them).

Now take out the bolts that hold the motor to the motor mounts. unbolt the brace that holds trans/engine together on the passenger side.

Heck you might be able to pick the engine up and out of the car like I did. Not sure you can get enough leverage/oomph to break the flexplate bolts loosen. They are on there pretty good. Heck if you've done everything as described above, you could yank the engine up high enough that you can zip each nut off with a impact gun, and turn the crank to get at each one.

--Nick
-'66 Ford Country Squire wagon 390/C6
-'87 & '89 Mercury Colony Park wagons 302 EFI/AOD
-'90 Lincoln Town Car 302 EFI/AOD
-'03 Lincoln Town Car 4.6L/4R70W

former '87 Taurus 3.0 GL sedan, '87 Taurus 3.0 GL Wagon, '97 Taurus SHO 3.4 V8 sedan, '00 Taurus SEL 3.0 24V
bull geek is offline  
post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-09-2012, 10:06 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: May 2011
Chapter: Midwest
Posts: 9
Rep Power: 0
 
Trader Score: 0 reviews
You will essentially be completely removing the engine to do this, and it will take you more than 8.1 hours, trust me,I have just done this on a 2000 vulcan.
Pulling as described in the previous post is fairly accurate. However, remove the main pulley (on crank), and water pump pulley, power steering pump, and alternator. This will give you and additional inch, which you will need when trying to re-align the engine and trans.
Gregs04.5 is offline  
post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-09-2012, 10:15 PM
Technical Advisor
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Blythewood, SC 29016
Chapter: Southeast
Posts: 17,410
Rep Power: 103
     
Trader Score: 7 reviews
Send a message via AIM to bull geek Send a message via MSN to bull geek
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregs04.5 View Post
You will essentially be completely removing the engine to do this, and it will take you more than 8.1 hours, trust me,I have just done this on a 2000 vulcan.
Pulling as described in the previous post is fairly accurate. However, remove the main pulley (on crank), and water pump pulley, power steering pump, and alternator. This will give you and additional inch, which you will need when trying to re-align the engine and trans.
+1 that's what I forgot to mention. Do this too. Good catch Greg!

--Nick
-'66 Ford Country Squire wagon 390/C6
-'87 & '89 Mercury Colony Park wagons 302 EFI/AOD
-'90 Lincoln Town Car 302 EFI/AOD
-'03 Lincoln Town Car 4.6L/4R70W

former '87 Taurus 3.0 GL sedan, '87 Taurus 3.0 GL Wagon, '97 Taurus SHO 3.4 V8 sedan, '00 Taurus SEL 3.0 24V
bull geek is offline  
post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-10-2012, 03:33 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Chapter: Northeast
Posts: 13
Rep Power: 0
 
Trader Score: 0 reviews
Thanks for your feedback!

So which would be the best way (less risk) to replace the flexplate? Raising the engine as mentioned in this chain or lowering the transmission as Ford recommends? Time is not as important as I don't have to get this done in a weekend.

Thanks.
nfc91095 is offline  
post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-10-2012, 06:41 PM
Technical Advisor
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Blythewood, SC 29016
Chapter: Southeast
Posts: 17,410
Rep Power: 103
     
Trader Score: 7 reviews
Send a message via AIM to bull geek Send a message via MSN to bull geek
Least risk? Engine out the top.

If you want to drop the trans...then you have to drop the subframe as an assembly w/all still connected, or you have to support everything from above, drop subframe, then drop the transmission.

Major PITA.

While you have the flexplate out. Replace your rear main seal with a new Ford one. Also replace your torque converter and torque converter seal. Cheap while things are separated.

--Nick
-'66 Ford Country Squire wagon 390/C6
-'87 & '89 Mercury Colony Park wagons 302 EFI/AOD
-'90 Lincoln Town Car 302 EFI/AOD
-'03 Lincoln Town Car 4.6L/4R70W

former '87 Taurus 3.0 GL sedan, '87 Taurus 3.0 GL Wagon, '97 Taurus SHO 3.4 V8 sedan, '00 Taurus SEL 3.0 24V
bull geek is offline  
post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-10-2012, 07:57 PM
Devoted Member
 
egiroux's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Long Island
Posts: 1,235
Rep Power: 16
 
Trader Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bull Geek View Post
While you have the flexplate out. Replace your rear main seal with a new Ford one. Also replace your torque converter and torque converter seal. Cheap while things are separated.
^+1. Get an upgraded converter with the improved spline plate.
egiroux is offline  
post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-16-2012, 03:43 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Chapter: Northeast
Posts: 13
Rep Power: 0
 
Trader Score: 0 reviews
Thanks. I started on it this weekend and it is amazing to see how much of this stuff could (or needs to) be replaced once you start removing it. Scary...

Do the fuel lines have to be disengaged or is there room for those to move a little?
nfc91095 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome