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Old 02-14-2012, 04:15 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default 2000 Taurus won't shift into any gear?

Hi TCCA (and Happy Valentine's Day to the Ladies!),

My wife just called and she's on the side of the road, but just around the corner from the house (TG). After running around the town today with no apparent problems, our 2000 Taurus SES V24 (auto tranny) just started to coast after going around the little traffic circle and over a small canal bridge. It only has about 38k miles on it. Temperature here is about 75F today.

I turned it off and restarted. It starts fine as usual, but when I shift through any and all gears at idle, there's no movement of the vehicle, no noise, or no rpm change either. With the emergency break on, I had her keep foot on the beak too (just in case), and shift slowly through the gears. I watched under the hood and could see the shifting cable move the the lever on top of the tranny as she went back and forth through the gears (ie. center console floor shifter on this car).

I even tried putting it in drive and giving about 1500rpm, but no difference. Ditto in the other gears.

At idle, the tranny dipstick is showing a high level, as if you were checking it without the engine running.

Btw, I did search and find 1998 Taurus Won't Shift Into Gear that has some limited discussion. It would be nice and helpful if people would post back with the outcomes of their episodes.

Only odd event lately was a couple days ago the Low Coolant Fluid light lit up on the dash about 5 miles from home late in the evening for no apparent reason. It has plenty of coolant in the tank. Haven't seen that light since. The Emergency Break dash light also started staying lit month's ago, but I know the breaks are fully disengaged when I release the emergency break release. I've just ignored it until I have more time to adjust the switch down on the pedal assembly.

I'm going to go down and take the battery ground off for an hour or so. Perhaps something electronic will reset. Perhaps it will move after the drive train cools down later this evening. As usual, I'll post back any results.

So, any ideas or suggestions on the "no tranny engage" problem now in progress? I appreciate your time and experience greatly.

Regards,
Brcobrem


P.S. For those of you who may remember the old joke about the new $500,000 steam locomotive that wouldn't engage and the consultant who fixed it for $50,000 in less than minute, I do have a 3 pound and an 8 pound sledge hammer.

Last edited by Brcobrem; 02-14-2012 at 04:18 PM.
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Old 02-14-2012, 04:44 PM   #2 (permalink)
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It sounds like your torque converter splines sheared off Or you have a complete trans pump failure, the diagnosis I'm afraid is not good. You will have to drop the trans to repair either one.

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Old 02-14-2012, 05:45 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks very much for the reply 00greenlx.

It's flat here so three volunteers and myself were able to push it around the corner, up the street and up the driveway at least.

I did take off the negative cable. I'll let it sit over night and see if wants to work in the morning. If that fails (probably), I will give a couple good pings on something solid with that 3 pounder. Let the forum know how that goes.

I might clarify that the wife said all was normal, driving around the circle at about 10/15 mph, then over the little bridge about 20mph, ready to turn into our street. Then it just revved a little and it was like it had slipped into neutral. No engagement in any gear since then when she pulled it off the road.

Oh my. Just what I needed right now. How do these modern vehicles monitor your bank account balance? They didn't have Wi-Fi in 2000 did they?

Regards,
Brcobrem
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Old 02-14-2012, 05:51 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Yes, I also agree the tranny needs to come out to fix this problem. It's probably the splines. See this thread for the video.

Transmission died- Torque converter failure
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Old 02-14-2012, 08:15 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks for the advice, guidance and the link behlinla :-)
Not exactly what I wanted to hear, but the facts are the facts.
Let the forum know how this all plays out.

Regards,
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Old 02-15-2012, 07:50 AM   #6 (permalink)
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The high fluid level sounds like pump failure.
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Old 02-15-2012, 07:56 AM   #7 (permalink)
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i agree with wjc, sounds like a pump failure, i would check the fluid while cold and make note of where it is on the stick, start the car and see if the level changes, then put it in gear and check again no change= pump failure,
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Old 02-15-2012, 10:30 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Hi TCCA,

This morning I put the negative battery cable back on. Then before starting the car, I checked the tranny fluid level as Bigdogg2830 advised .

The writing on the stick says :
"Don't add if in crosshatch area - Check when hot - Idling in Park - Use Mercon V Oil"

Fyi, the cross hatch area ends about 1 1/16" up from the bottom of the stick.

With the engine still turned off, the level was at the "h" in "Check". That's at 4 1/8' up the stick.

I started the engine, (didn't wait until hot), moved the shifter slowly back, and then forward though the gears until it was back up in Park. The level dropped only about 7/8" down to to 3 1/4" up the stick (which is at the the "H" in "Crosshatch"). Btw, there was no gear engagement, so taking the Negative cable off the battery was a futile effort.

So there's this morning's observations. Before I start making calls, I'll appreciate your thoughts and feedback.

Regards,
Brcobrem

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Old 02-15-2012, 10:35 AM   #9 (permalink)
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It sounds like the pump is working but the splines on the torque converter are stripped out, so the car will not move. Either way Replace the pump, replace the torque converter (With a Dayco unit) and the seals in the trans while it's down. Make sure they look at your bands to see if they are in good shape as well, if you take a transmission down make sure that it gets anything it needs because taking one out isn't exactly cheap.

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Old 02-15-2012, 01:25 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Thanks again 00greenlx for the heads-ups.

I just talked to Dacco. Although the YouTube video seen in a link above talks about the AXOD tranny, they said that the torque converter that I have in my AX4N (METRIC), has the same OEM premature "stripped splines" problem. I'm told that the "washer looking part" that's stripped on the ID, is inside the torque converter. I don't think that "washer" is field replaceable (please correct me if I'm wrong).

So . . . it looks like it will be headed for the tranny shop. I really liked your advice on what should be serviced while it's there. Do you expect that I'll meet any resistance from the shop manager about asking them to follow my (ie. your) specific requests?

Or, do you think they'll just want to sell me someone else's rebuilt tranny? I know my tranny was not beat and it only has 38k miles on it.

If I may ask, what you you consider ballpark $ for service and parts (specifying Dacco parts) like you're recommending? I will tell them in advance that Dacco parts are to be used and will require that the Dacco part numbers be listed on my final invoice.

Again, I appreciate your, and everyone's help.

Regards,
Brcobrem
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