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Old 02-02-2012, 09:05 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Rear Spring Sag Solution

Thought I'd post some pics of the latest issue I've tackled on my Taurus. My rear springs were pretty much gone, real weak. So I tried two things, new Moog springs, and a custom lift kit I put together using alum wheel spacers stacked to desired height between the top of the strut mount and the body.
Hope this helps folks out. Total cost, springs $60 on ebay new, Stainless bolts 8mm x 1.25, $15 ace hardware, and finally three sets of wheel spacers at $20 each set.
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Old 02-02-2012, 09:29 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by randytheideaman View Post
Thought I'd post some pics of the latest issue I've tackled on my Taurus. My rear springs were pretty much gone, real weak. So I tried two things, new Moog springs, and a custom lift kit I put together using alum wheel spacers stacked to desired height between the top of the strut mount and the body.
Hope this helps folks out. Total cost, springs $60 on ebay new, Stainless bolts 8mm x 1.25, $15 ace hardware, and finally three sets of wheel spacers at $20 each set.
I give your a kudos for ingenuity, but i am still trying to figure out what your trying to do?

Why would not putting new springs on restore ride height?

Also, If your struts were over 100K, why did you not change them also?

I am trying to build a ghetto chamber gage for mine now.
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Old 02-02-2012, 12:18 PM   #3 (permalink)
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He was fixing the saggy bottom. The spacers and the new Moog springs both work to add ride height. The old springs compress and "sag" over time. New struts might have also helped a little, but perhaps he didn't have the $$'s.

One thing I would have also done was try to address the rust on the strut mounting surface in the wheel well.. That should be painted it before putting the struts back in. The struts have been known to pop through the rear deck when the rust eats all the way through.
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Old 02-02-2012, 12:30 PM   #4 (permalink)
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why not slide the strut up on the knuckle?
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Old 02-02-2012, 01:35 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by behlinla View Post
He was fixing the saggy bottom. The spacers and the new Moog springs both work to add ride height. The old springs compress and "sag" over time. New struts might have also helped a little, but perhaps he didn't have the $$'s.

One thing I would have also done was try to address the rust on the strut mounting surface in the wheel well.. That should be painted it before putting the struts back in. The struts have been known to pop through the rear deck when the rust eats all the way through.
Re:
' address the rust on the strut mounting surface in the wheel well..'

Agree and while on rust.
That gas filler tube is on the way to a problem soon.

And then, raising the rear will change the brake balance.

-chart-
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Old 02-02-2012, 06:01 PM   #6 (permalink)
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good point on the rust there Chartmaker, thanks and good eye.
I was actually trying to address the long standing issue of the sagging rear end.
Yes, new springs would have restored ride height to near factory, the struts were in good shape and did not need replacement.
But, the car has 174,000 miles on it and this is my spare vehicle to be used when one of the primary ones are down in my family or if gas gets too expensive. For now, I've put over 200 lbs in the trunk and the car is still a little higher than it would normally be with springs only. I wanted to compensate for eventual sagging of the weaker designed springs using simple ideas.

BTW, I can't just slide the bottom of the strut up higher in the knuckle/strut pinch assembly. The securing point on the strut moves up and out of the knuckle then, and, you now have a longer
pry/leverage point on the bottom of the strut. Should it rip out or tear off, then we have an accident waiting to happen. this is a safe and custom way to variably compensate for ride height without sacrificing safety, structural integrity, and ride comfort. It actually looks like cars of today with the higher rear ends.

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Old 02-02-2012, 08:03 PM   #7 (permalink)
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My Taurus has the knuckle further down the strut to jack up the rear end. Been that way since 2008. No problem. That cheap, thin piece of metal is a locating tab so you have an even level rear end. Grab a pair of dykes and it will fold over like a candy bar wrapper. It won't help you any.

Anyways, I am very impressed by your fix. Reminds me of how some people have different spring seats installed to raise/lower the height of their vehicle. Great solution. What Moog springs did you use?
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Old 02-02-2012, 08:51 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Any time I do struts, I use a brass wire wheel in a cordless drill and clean the upper inside of strut towers and then follow with 2-3 coats of rust converter spray paint. I have seen rusty tower tops punch through on cars.
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Old 02-03-2012, 10:29 AM   #9 (permalink)
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If you are counting on 2 tack welds to hold the strut in place, i have swamp land that will pass a perk test for you to build on.
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Old 02-03-2012, 09:09 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
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If you are counting on 2 tack welds to hold the strut in place, i have swamp land that will pass a perk test for you to build on.
??? Who said anything about tack welds???
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