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Old 11-02-2011, 12:31 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Brothers, Ive just began having a problem with my 2001 taurus 3.0 engine. While driving seems to be fine but on rare occasion when comming to a stop the engine would shut off. No codes. All the dash lights are on as if the key was turned to the on position before cranking. I then put the car onto park or N and would start up without hesitation. The engine would not stumble or shutter, just shut off. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.
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Old 11-02-2011, 04:16 PM   #2 (permalink)
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You should check for codes with a scan tool. It might another bad battery (car is running completely off the alternator until you slow down).
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Old 11-02-2011, 08:22 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Welcome to TCCA.

The IAC is responsible for maintaining idle speed, so if it's dirty, sticking, or otherwise acting out, it can cause the kind of problem your having. So, you might remove & clean it with a plastic safe cleaner & see if it'll clear things up. Cleaning might not last, it didn't for me on my Ranger & probably why Ford recommends replacement rather than cleaning, but cleaning was a good trouble shooting step for me.

More thoughts for your suspect list, let us know how it goes.
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Old 11-03-2011, 07:07 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks for all the feedback. I have attached a code reader and have found no codes. Your battery theroy is interesting and will check the voltage this afternoon but it has never hesitated or turned slow as if a weak battery. If it is the IAC, would there show any codes?? I am willing to try a new one if this is the fact. I have read some unsuscessful results with cleaning them. This is my Daughters car and dont want to take chances of her stranded. Thanks....
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Old 11-03-2011, 07:30 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silver2001taurus View Post
Thanks for all the feedback. I have attached a code reader and have found no codes. Your battery theroy is interesting and will check the voltage this afternoon but it has never hesitated or turned slow as if a weak battery. If it is the IAC, would there show any codes?? I am willing to try a new one if this is the fact. I have read some unsuscessful results with cleaning them. This is my Daughters car and dont want to take chances of her stranded. Thanks....
Good way to check IAC. Idling warm in N A/C off. Note rpm. Put in gear, holding brake. Idle should only change a tick, maybe 50 rpm. Turn on A/C and idle rpm should not change. Turn steering wheel hard one way, rpm should not change. Maybe just a little change but the car's system adjust idle rpm with the IAC. It has no feedback so the signal is sent but it does not know if the IAC actually moved.

I have cleaned 3 of mine with naptha (or mineral spirits) and Q-tips. Lots of black gunk gets in it. I then oil the shaft with a drop of oil. All worked fine.

-chart-
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Old 11-03-2011, 08:24 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Yes there are codes for a faulty IAC, but I don't remember anyone posting any over the years & my Ranger never set any IAC codes, but cleaning it's IAC cleared the problem for about a year, then they returned, so I replaced it.

Before throwing another IAC at the problem, I'd try testing & or removing & cleaning it as Chartmaker suggested & see what happens.

I have heard of another scenario of engine stall when coming to a stop being caused by the torque converter not unlocking. Sorta like coming to a stop with a straight drive & not pushing the clutch in. You can test for that by quickly shifting into "N" when you feel that the engine is about to stall & if it doesn't stall, suspect the torque converter isn't unlocking.
When this scenario begins to happen, the driver should feel the engine surge as though someone were mashing on the accellerator, as the IAC tries to maintain idle speed, so they'll have to mash the brakes harder to stop.
So, you might question the Daughter if this surge feeling has happened when the engine stalls while coming to a stop. If not, suspect an IAC problem.

More thoughts for consideration, let us know what you find.
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Old 11-03-2011, 11:22 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Thanks. When the engine shuts its self off there is no stumbling, surging or stalling. Its almost like the key was turned off but with all the dash lights on. I found a test to check the resistence of the IAC when unplugged. I assume they mean to test across the two terminals. Should be between 6-15 ohms. Ill try to check tonight.
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Old 11-03-2011, 11:31 AM   #8 (permalink)
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^ Fwiw, ive never had a faulty iac throw a code.
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Old 11-11-2011, 07:12 AM   #9 (permalink)
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On occasion my 1997 SHO (140K miles, owned the car since 97) won't idle, this only happens when the engine is hot typically after an hour or 2 of highway speeds when the engine is heat soaked. It happens about once out of every 20 times I drive it. It runs perfectly otherwise, good gas mileage and normal power.
When it happens, IF I rev the engine above 2500 it will run. The problem would just go away magically and resurface latter.
I also replaced a bunch of things like the idle air control valve and the relay module,
but that did nothing.
I found the solution, turn the car off (when it won't idle, ignition key has to be off, open the hood shake the wire connector going to the relay module and the car runs perfectly.
Tried cleaning the harness terminal connectors, no help.

I am too lazy to chase this ghost, mine is obviously some flaky conductor or wiring termination. It only takes me less the 1 minute to fix it when it happens and my trick works 100%.

try shaking things a bit, I believe it must be the lead or terminal along the line going to the IACV

got to find the right place to kick it
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Old 02-04-2012, 09:09 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Sorry for waiting so long for another update but I wanted to make sure. I replaced the IAC first. Although it did not stall out as often...it still stalled one or twice. I then replaced the alternator as it was barely putting out 12v anyway. After a new alternator the Taurus has not stalled out yet
And that was several months ago. Thanks again for the help, we do appreciate it.
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