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Old 11-01-2011, 09:50 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default '02 6cyl with two plugs not firing...

I know less about cars than I know about 14th century Russian Lit, so be patient with me. I have some extended family who know enough about cars to replace just about anything, but they are having trouble identifying the actual cause of this issue.

My 2002 Taurus SES 3.0L, 6 cyl DOHC started running like crap. My bro-in-law hooked it up to read the error codes and a couple came up, most notably a spark plug issue. So my brother and I replaced all six plugs and wires. Car seemed to run a little better (didn't seem like it was going to stall at every stop) but was still pretty choppy. Couple days later hooked it up and got error code PO352. We took that to mean that the Ignition Coil needed replacing which we did but the problem persisted.

We tested the all 6 wires off the new Coil pack and determined that 3 and 4 were not firing. Putting either of those wires on the other four working coils tested just fine and putting any of the four working wires on coils 3 and 4 did not produce a spark so all 6 wires seem to be fine. Also, we put the old Coil pack back on and everything was the exact same which seems to rule out the Coil pack.

So is the wire that feeds juice to the coil pack the issue or is there something else possibly?
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Old 11-01-2011, 11:41 AM   #2 (permalink)
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sounds like you need a new pcm. first look for bad wires in the harness that connects to the coil pack, check the pins. if alls good there. take the coil pack to auto zone and have them test it. (free) if pack test good i would say with 99.9% certain you need a pcm
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Old 11-01-2011, 12:32 PM   #3 (permalink)
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We tried testing the wiring but to be honest, I'm not sure we knew what we were looking for. We tried both an analog meter and a digital and I forget the exact results but I remember us thinking they were what we might expect from a working wire. Are we looking for a specific ohm or just that they are live? With the ignition in the on or off position?

Funny you said to have autozone check the coil pack, because that's where I bought our replacement. When the new pack didn't make a difference we called them to ask if they could test them and they said no. Regardless, I think it would be pretty odd for coils 3 and 4 to be bad on the original and then also on a brand new coil pack.

Lastly, regarding the PCM, is that something that has to be done by a mechanic because I see no reference to it anywhere on autozone or napa websites?
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Old 11-01-2011, 12:51 PM   #4 (permalink)
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you can get a pcm for a junk yard. or the dealer.
i just noticed you have a duratec engine. you have a coil pack or coil on plug? i dont remember what years are which. just want to make sure before going farther.
please do not go out and buy parts yet. hopefully some others will show up and confirm my thoughts or debunk it.
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Old 11-01-2011, 01:01 PM   #5 (permalink)
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this is how you test the coil pack.
With the ignition off, disconnect the 4 wire connector from the coil. connect an ohmmeter between pin 4 on the coil connector (the pin that connects to the white/blue wire) and each of the other three pins in sequence. The primary resistence should read 0.5 ohm and the secondary resistence should read 13,600 ohms. If resistance is out of limits for any of the individual coils. The complete coil pack should be replace.
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Old 11-01-2011, 01:04 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigdogg2830 View Post
you can get a pcm for a junk yard. or the dealer.
i just noticed you have a duratec engine. you have a coil pack or coil on plug? i dont remember what years are which. just want to make sure before going farther.
please do not go out and buy parts yet. hopefully some others will show up and confirm my thoughts or debunk it.
It is a coil pack.
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Old 11-01-2011, 01:15 PM   #7 (permalink)
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do an ohms test on both old and new coil. if they test good then look closely at the connector for corrosion. then run the harness for a bare wire. im leaning towards the pcm on this. with the fact you tested the spark plug wires, new plugs and coil and still have the same issue with the same cylinders. this is the only thing i can think of.
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Old 11-01-2011, 01:58 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigdogg2830 View Post
this is how you test the coil pack.
With the ignition off, disconnect the 4 wire connector from the coil. connect an ohmmeter between pin 4 on the coil connector (the pin that connects to the white/blue wire) and each of the other three pins in sequence. The primary resistence should read 0.5 ohm and the secondary resistence should read 13,600 ohms. If resistance is out of limits for any of the individual coils. The complete coil pack should be replace.
Forgive my ignorance, but do I have to use an analog to do this? I have a digital multimeter but I've never used it for measuring resistance (I'm a computer guy so I use it to test power supplies). Setting the meter to 20M, the only time I get any result other than 1 is when I touch one end to the red line of the wire that feeds the coil pack and the other end to either of the three yellow lines of that same wire. The result then is 3.48, 3.49 and 3.5 respectively.
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Old 11-01-2011, 02:13 PM   #9 (permalink)
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digital will work. are you testing the pins that are on the coil pack or the wire harness?
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Old 11-01-2011, 02:19 PM   #10 (permalink)
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let me break down the test for you. take note of results. I will make it simple. place one probe on the first pin on the coil pack. take the other probe and place it on the other pins and the spark plug posts. repeat for every pin.
it doesnt matter what ohms setting you have the meter placed on just make sure you note it. the test should be around the same results on both coil packs. post the results of both the old coil and new one.
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