pulley should turn very easily without the belt on.
In my experience it is far easier just to drop the subframe to change it. I've heard of people doing it from the top, but my guess is by they time they it got done I would have already finished the job from the bottom, downed a six pack and taken a nap
My knuckles wouldn't be busted up either.
As for the steps...
1. Remove the battery cables.
2. Remove the bolt through the upper motor mount.
3. Lift the front end and place the car on jack stands under the frame rails.
4. Remove the passenger side wheel.
5. Place a jack under the passenger side of the subframe.
6. Loosen the driver side subframe bolts half way.
7. Remove the passenger side subframe bolts.
8. Disconnect the passenger side strut. (I disconnected mine from the tower, but you can disconnect from the spindle as well.)
9. Slowly lower the jack under the subframe until the A/C
pulley is visible.
10. Remove the 8mm bolt from the center of the clutch and remove the clutch.
11. Remove the snap ring holding on the pulley.
12. Remove the pulley. (It should come off easily, but I needed a puller for mine.)
13. Repeat process in reverse.