1999 3.0L Taurus Will turn over but not start.
Greetings fellow Ford people. I have a problem hopefully someone can help me with. My Taurus has 185K miles on it, recently I have been doing alot to it to keep it running, within the last year I have changed the alternator, starter, water pump, thermostat, power steering pump, oil pan gasket and most recently the coil pack. The first time I changed it I also replaced all the plugs and wires. About a month later or so I experienced the same no starting problem, I changed the coil again just because the first one was used and the symptoms were the same, coil changed started right up. Fast forward today same problem, no start. Cranks over fine but not starting. One new twist though, the first few cranks and it acted like a dead battery, and the windshield wipers cycled thru once? After that happening a couple of times it consistenly cranks but no start. I had a spare coil and replaced it quick with no results. Could it be the crank sensor? Or ignition module (if it has one) or fuel issue? Please help! LOL
Last edited by Lord Jupiter; 07-25-2011 at 03:16 PM. Reason: I misspelled a couple words
Join Date: Dec 2006
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Turn the key to ON and watch for the Check Engine light. Then start cranking the engine. If the light goes out, the crank sensor is working and theis receiving a crank signal. If the light doesn't go out, I'd bet on a bum crank sensor.
Retired ASE Master/L-1 Technician.
Thanks Rick. After a little more searching and then trying something simple I got it to work. Turns out you need a really good battery that is not 4 years old to start the car! LOL. I jumped it and it started right up, So today I am putting in a new battery today. One other question though, What should a volt meter read on the battery when you crank it over? Should it remain at 12v when cranking, or should it drop all the way to 9v? Just curious. Thanks again.
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It should drop, I think around 9 1/2 volts or below is considered excessive current draw.
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Originally Posted by Lord Jupiter View Post
And this bring me back to history.
Even going back the the '32 Flathead engine, they put a dropping resistor on top of the coil and used a 4 volt coil on 6 volt system. The starter solenoid had a terminal that put bat volts to the coil so it got direct bat to the coil for cranking. Then without the starter, it got bat volts less 2 drop in the resistor. This principle was used up until they started with the coil pack. 12V systems use a 8 volt coil.
I had a '80 Merc which lost it's resistor which was a wire in the harness. It would start but not run. I made a substitute wire by trial and error. Worked fine.
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