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Old 07-14-2011, 03:17 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Bad coil pack?

Car is a 2000 taurus 3.0 OHV flex fuel. I was doing some work on it last week and I noticed that the #1 cylinder wasn't firing. When I pulled the wire from the coil pack there was no spark jumping and the engine didn't studder at all like it does when I pull the other 5 cylinders(one at a time). So I told my cousin to get some plugs and wires since it hadn't had a tune up in 120,000 miles. Changed them out today and found the #1 wire was disenigrated at the plug. The wire pulled out of the boot and you could tell it was broken for a while. The actual wire inside just crumbled. Also when I took the plug out it still had wet fuel on it.

So the only other thing I can think of is the coil pack. It works for all five cylinders except the #1. Is there a way to test the coil pack so I don't just throw parts at the car? Is there anything else I should be looking into other than the coil pack or am I on the right track?

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Old 07-14-2011, 04:32 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Yes there is, or at least their should be. I just got my Taurus so I don't know the tips and tricks and pitfalls of Ford cars, but this is how I'd test my ignition coil on both my 86 Fiero GT, 87 Fiero GT, 96 Saturn SC2, and my 93 Geo Storm.

When my previous cars wouldn't start, one thing I'd do was to pull the wire that comes from the DistCap (DC) to the IgnCoil (IC). You'll want to leave the the DC side of the wire plugged to the DC and the other end just needs to be temporarily out of your way.

Ok, in a perfect world, when you try starting the car the (now exposed) IC post should energize and send an electrical charge down the wire you just unhooked to the DC's center post which charges each individual plug in order. With the wire off of the IC, when the car is being cranked, your IC is good if you see the IC Post start sparking (kind of a tesla or plasma ball effect). In summary, if you see sparks, the Ignition coil is good. In the previous example, if the coil showed that it could get and send spark, the next culprit was usually the Ignition Control Module, but that might not apply to your case. I did have 2 plug wires backwards once and it stuttered really bad until I went back and double-checked the firing order diagram for the DistCap-->SparkPlugWires-->SparkPlugs.

Hope it helps.

I think Advanced or Autozone will test ignition coils and Ignition Control Modules for free ().
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Old 07-14-2011, 07:20 PM   #3 (permalink)
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^+1. Az can run primary and secondary resistance tests for free, or you can if you have an ohmmeter and haynes or chiltons for the how-to and specs.
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Old 07-14-2011, 09:00 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Or you can do it the easy way and take and old plug and wire. Ground it and start the car to see if its firing. Or you could go to your local parts store and get a tester made for this purpose. They are pretty cheap but not as cheap as an old wire and plug in it. Thats what I use.
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Old 07-14-2011, 09:23 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 01TaurusFan View Post
Or you can do it the easy way and take and old plug and wire. Ground it and start the car to see if its firing. Or you could go to your local parts store and get a tester made for this purpose. They are pretty cheap but not as cheap as an old wire and plug in it. Thats what I use.
I know the coil isn't firing the #1 cylinder. When I pull 2-6 off it will arc between the coil and the plug wire, the 1 cylinder doesn't arc at all. I just put new wires and plugs in so I know that the coil is not sending juice to the #1 wire. Just want to make sure this means bad coil pack before I replace it, don't like just throwing parts at things. Didn't know if there was an ohm or some other test I could do to make sure the coil pack is the culprit?
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Old 07-15-2011, 09:07 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Resistance tests on coil pack can check out OK, but coil pack can still be bad. If you have spark on all but #1, the coil pack is the problem and it needs to be replaced.
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Old 07-15-2011, 02:39 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Thanks Jeff.
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