2002 Taurus Power Window Problem - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 3 (permalink) Old 02-22-2011, 09:15 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Chapter: Northeast
Posts: 2
Rep Power: 0
Trader Score: 0 reviews
2002 Taurus Power Window Problem

I am wondering if anyone can help me on this. All the power windows stop working at once except driver side down. Thanks,

Wiring diagram

Last edited by quicktrader; 02-22-2011 at 09:32 PM.
quicktrader is offline  
Sponsored Links
post #2 of 3 (permalink) Old 05-11-2011, 10:25 PM
Devoted Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Schenectady, NY
Chapter: Northeast
Posts: 2,460
Rep Power: 23
Trader Score: 1 reviews
These switches have been prone to failure. I would suggest a new switch. All windows get power from the driver master switch.

2003 Vulcan AX4S – Spruce Green

For Sale

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

I am TheSavo on the following Boards,
Crownvic.ca, Crownvic.net, Escape-City.com, FordEscape.og, FordTaurus.net, ExplorerForum.com, F150online.com, TaurusOwners.com

Like my diagrams? they are from
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Sign-up for a free account.

Vehicle Maintenance Log.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Also has an Android App.
thesavo is offline  
post #3 of 3 (permalink) Old 11-03-2012, 01:36 PM
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 11
Rep Power: 0
Trader Score: 0 reviews
Thumbs up Picking daisies to fix Taurus windows.

You can't know all have failed--and it would be a very unlikely event unless all were overloaded at the same time, both up and down.

You only know that the driver window switch Up function (or was it Down...doesn't really matter) is lost, indicating almost to a certainty that driver's window switch has "half failed" - which is really no different than "all failed. So you want to change out the driver's switch. But from where? The parts department or store?

The good news is that you will probably not have to buy 4 switches; or three; or two; or, perhaps, even one.

Let's assume only the driver switch is defective...because switch fail in one direction only indicates a switch failure in this case (had relay froze or breaker broke, then no UP or Down by any window. The question now is where to get a known good switch. Actually you have as many as 3 "suspected good" switches. So pulling one or all of those will provide a "stock" of "test" switches to try as the driver switch replacement. But let's be lazy and try to pull as few switches as possible.

Factor one: let us assume, for example, that the rear switches are the least used (depends on children or dog kids, and how they are harnessed, or not, I would suppose; so you could pick the passenger switch if you like - the idea being to use the "least-used-previously" switch...because you want the "new"/test driver switch (and circuit) to be the most reliable, and it would seem safe to say that the second most used switch (typically the front passenger switch) is closer to failure, whenever that might come to pass: could be minutes, could be many minutes.

Now, is the driver window fully functional with the "new," cannibalized switch? Yes? Okay, now you have eliminated the driver window switch fault (by introducing another fault - a missing switch fault - in one of the other windows that earlier appeared to (but almost certainly did not) fail. (Again, we hope that the now switch-less window is the least used window...why we will soon find out.

Okay, now, ignition switch On; set driver's master cut-off switch to "cut on", and try the other (two) window switches, starting with the next most frequently used after the driver window--usually the passenger window, the next in the daisy chain of window Up and window Down switches.

It's working now? Yes? No?

Okay, Yes (for real of let's pretend). Now go to that last (next to the last) window - you'll know it because it has a switch installed. It's working, too? Great! Now all we have is that non-failed, fully functional hole under the last un-recovered window. Now we have some decisions to make.

If we are in no hurry to give up $80 more or less, we can render that open hole non-open simply by plugging in the removed, faulty driver's switch - be sure to connect it to prevent accidental wire terminal contacts. Sure, the window doesn't work but, now, nobody will suspect just by looking at the arm rest. The only question now will be when to replace that switch, if ever. Some people like to have a back window that moves a little; some don't care. Some want to have at least two "backup" switches; for some just one is enough.

Summarizing, your only expense now is $80-90 or so (...assuming you to be a loyal Ford patron) for one switch; versus the $320-360, sans labor, you might have been preparing to spend to replace those four "bad" switches. So, by bringing three of your car's windows back to life, you actually saved a net $240-270! May I have my cut now? Oh, but wait.

What if that second (now no longer pretend) window switch that was tested (the first after driver switch replacement) had not worked. In that case, because current at the driver switch Up and Down circuits can't find a path when drawn by other switches, replacing the driver's master window cut-off switch, the only discrete component interruption in the two paths (window raise and window lower) to the other window switches should restore the switch-ability of power to those other window switches.
lexis more is offline  
Sponsored Links

Quick Reply

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:


Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome