I will vouch for Fel Pro gaskets. I used one on my Vulcan and made sure to use RTV on it and had no leaks at all. This is definitely a repair you don't want to do again within a few thousand miles. So do it right the first time.
Yes you will have to remove the Y-pipe assy from the vehicle. It is a ROYAL pain in the ass after a few hundred thousand miles. You may snap studs so be prepared to replace them. you'll need Deep sockets, universal joints, LONG and shot extensions (I found a 14" helped me out) and should use a 3/8" ratchet. I would use a 1/2 to break the bolts, but only a 3/8" diameter fits in the tight crevices. I'd suggest you keep both on hand. The bolts on the manifolds are a huge PITA to get to. I'd recommend you also use a good penetrant such as PB Blaster.
In a perfect world if everything goes off without a hitch, I'd give it in your garage 4-5 hours. It took me 12 hours (in a garage with all of my specialized tools.) Just be ready and have a back up ride just in case.
-2007 Mazda Axela (3s sport) "Ai", 2.3L MZR DOHC I4, 5F31J T-ATX True Red
-SOLD-1999 Jeep TJ Wrangler, AMC 150 OHV I-4, Aisin-Warner AX-5 MTX Flame Red
-TOTALED-1996 Ford Taurus GL "Able", 3.0L OHV V6 Vulcan, AX4N ATX Toreador Red
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-2005 Ford Explorer Sport Trac XLT, 4.0L SOHC Cologne V6, 5R55E ATX Silver Birch Metallic
-2007 Nissan Quest 3.5SE, 3.5L VQ35DE DOHC V6, RE5F22A ATX Silver Mist Metallic
Lights on for safety!
Last edited by mediarocker; 11-06-2010 at 05:56 AM.