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Old 09-12-2010, 07:33 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Repairing head gaskets LIVE !

LOL i have my laptop broadcasting us live webcam online check it out, were doing a repair of 1997 taurus head gaskets SOHC
[CLOSED]
chim in and tell us what you think.


Posting videos soon of the documented faq im trying to build lol



ADD----- Thanks to all who joined us in our tear down. i have some neat videos to post once their finished downloading!

Last edited by darkemp; 09-12-2010 at 11:18 PM.
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Old 09-12-2010, 08:02 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Can't see much but its working
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Old 09-13-2010, 01:15 AM   #3 (permalink)
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The cylinder head bolts are a torque-to-yield design and cannot be reused. Be sure new cylinder head bolts are available before beginning this procedure.

Rotate the crankshaft until the piston in No. 1 cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke.

Disconnect the negative battery cable.

Properly relieve the fuel system pressure.
CAUTION

Drain the cooling system into a suitable container.

Remove the air cleaner outlet hose to throttle body.

Label and disconnect the vacuum lines to the upper intake manifold.

Disconnect the transducer hose from the EGR valve. Loosen the lower EGR valve-to-exhaust manifold tube nut and rotate the tube away from the valve.

Label and unplug the wiring from the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor, Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), Idle Air Control (IAC) valve and Pressure Feedback EGR (PFE) or Differential Pressure Feedback EGR (DPFE) sensors.

Remove the fuel line safety clips and disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel supply manifold.

Remove the upper intake manifold and discard the gasket.

Label and disconnect the fuel injector harness from the valve cover studs and fuel injectors.

Remove the ignition coil and bracket from the left (front) cylinder and set aside.

Label and disconnect the ignition wires from the spark plugs and the valve cover studs.

Disconnect the upper radiator and heater hoses.

If necessary, remove the Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor and housing.

Tag and unplug the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor and temperature sending unit electrical connectors.

For the left (front) cylinder head, perform the following:

Tag and unplug the alternator electrical connectors.

Rotate the tensioner clockwise and remove the accessory drive belt.

Remove the automatic belt tensioner assembly.

Remove the alternator and brace.

Remove the power steering mounting bracket retaining bolts. Leave the hoses connected and place the pump aside in a position to prevent fluid from leaking out.

Remove the engine oil dipstick tube from the exhaust manifold.

For the right (rear) cylinder head, perform the following:

Remove the intake manifold support.

Remove the valve covers.

Regardless of the cylinder head being removed, the No. 3 cylinder intakevalve pushrod must be removed to allow removal of the intake manifold.

Loosen the rocker arm fulcrum bolts and remove the rocker arms, fulcrums and bolts. Keep the assemblies in order so they can be reinstalled in their original locations.

Remove the pushrods and label their positions. The pushrods must be installed in their original position during reassembly.

Remove the lower intake manifold.

Remove the spark plugs.

Remove the exhaust manifolds.

Unfasten and discard the cylinder head bolts and remove the cylinder heads from the engine.

Remove and discard the old cylinder head gaskets.

http://www.chiltonlibrary.com/conten...s/91173g38.pdf
The cylinder head dowels must be fully seated to install gasket and head properly-3.0L OHV engines

http://www.chiltonlibrary.com/conten...s/91173g39.pdf
Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence-3.0L OHV engines

http://www.chiltonlibrary.com/conten...40.pdfCamshaft position during rocker arm installation and valve clearance check-3.0L OHV engines

To install:

The cylinder head should be cleaned and inspected before installation.

If the cylinder heads were removed for cylinder head gasket replacement, check the flatness of the cylinder heads and the cylinder block gasket sealing surfaces.
CAUTION

Use care when using a scraper to clean any aluminum parts. Aluminum gouges easily which may cause the component to leak.



Place a shop rag in the valve tappet valley to catch any dirt or gasket material. Clean the cylinder head bolts holes in the block with a tap. Clean the cylinder head, intake manifold, rocker arm cover and cylinder head gasket contact surfaces.

Position new head gaskets on the cylinder block using the dowels in the block for alignment. If the dowels are damaged, they must be replaced.



The cylinder head dowels must be fully seated to install gasket and head properly-3.0L OHV engines
Click to Enlarge


Position the cylinder head on the block. Install new cylinder head bolts and tighten, in the sequence illustrated as follows:

First pass: tighten the cylinder head bolts in the sequence illustrated to 52-66 ft. lbs. (70-90 Nm), then back off the bolts 360 degrees.

Second pass: tighten the cylinder head bolts in the sequence illustrated to 45-55 ft. lbs. (34-40 Nm).

Final pass: tighten the cylinder head bolts in the sequence illustrated to 63-73 ft. lbs. (85-99 Nm).



Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence-3.0L OHV engines
Click to Enlarge




Camshaft position during rocker arm installation and valve clearance check-3.0L OHV engines
Click to Enlarge


Install the intake manifold.

Attach the ECT and coolant temperature sending unit connectors.

Dip each pushrod end in oil conditioner or heavy engine oil. Install the pushrods in their original position.

Before installation, coat the valve tips, rocker arm and fulcrum contact areas with LubriplateŽ or equivalent.

Rotate the crankshaft one full turn (360 degrees) until the lifter is on the base circle of the cam as shown in the accompanying illustration (camshaft position A).

Install the rocker arm assemblies and tighten the rocker arm fulcrum bolts to 6-11 ft. lbs. (7-17 Nm) to position the rocker arm seats.

Rotate the crankshaft clockwise 120 degrees to camshaft position B as shown in the accompanying illustration. Tighten the rocker arm fulcrum bolts to 6-11 ft. lbs. (7-17 Nm) to position the rocker arm seats.

The fulcrums must be fully seated in the cylinder head and the pushrodsmust be seated in the rocker arm sockets prior to the final tightening.

Final tighten the rocker arm fulcrum bolts to 20-28 ft. lbs. (26-38 Nm).

If the same valve train components are used a valve train check is not required.If new components were installed, measure the clearance with the valve tappetfully collapsed on the base circle of the camshaft lobe. The measurement should be 0.085-0.185 inch (2.15-4.69mm). Refer to the accompanying illustration if necessary for the valve clearance measurement.

Install the lower intake manifold.

Install the spark plugs.

Position the valve covers on the cylinder head and install the retaining bolts. Note the location of the ignition wire retainer stud bolts.

Install the fuel charging wiring to the fuel injectors and inboard valve cover stud bolts.

Install the upper intake manifold upper gasket and the upper intake manifold.

Install the ignition coil and bracket. Attach all sensor electrical connectors.

For the left (front) cylinder head, perform the following:

Connect the oil dipstick tube to the exhaust manifold stud and tighten the nut to 12-14 ft. lbs. (16-20 Nm).

Install the power steering support bracket and pump. Tighten the retaining bolt to 30-45 ft. lbs. (40-55 Nm).

Install the automatic belt tensioner and tighten the retaining nuts/bolt to 35 ft. lbs. (48 Nm).

For the right (rear) cylinder head, install the intake manifold support.

Install the alternator and brace.

Install the drive belt.

Connect the fuel lines.

Install the CMP housing and sensor if removed.

Connect the upper radiator hose and heater hoses.

Connect all vacuum lines to pre-marked locations.

Change the engine oil and filter.

Install the air cleaner outlet tube to throttle body and engine air cleaner.

Install crankcase ventilation tube to valve cover.

Fill and bleed the cooling system. Connect the negative battery cable. Start the engine and check for coolant, fuel, oil, vacuum and exhaust leaks.

Check and if necessary, adjust the accelerator and cruise control cables.

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Old 09-13-2010, 02:08 AM   #4 (permalink)
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part list for tomorrow,

Resurfaced heads.
felpro gasket kit + rtv sealent
Pcv hose (free at junkyard)+ PCV valve it self, or just brake cleaner the **** out of the old on... :S
Heater hose, (free at junkyard)old one burned a hole on the EGR exhaust tube because of the moron who previously worked on the car....
T coolant connectors and piping along with it (free at junkard) because there was no T fitting in the car, just a plastic pluming pipe with two clamps on either end....
Power steering pulley maybe... big chip on the side, im going to see how much one is at the junkyard tomorrow.
Spark plugs, poorly gapped spark plugs were found
5 quarts of synthetic oil on sale at mejirs for 13 bucks
2 jugs of antifreeze also on sale!
cans and cans and cans of brake cleaner. ima scrub **** out of this eninge.
Flap wheels for pneumatic dremel, PORT POLISH TIME DD
1500 grit sandpaper and 2000 grit emery paper

i will post more videos on the rebuild so stayyyyyyy tuned
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Old 09-13-2010, 11:54 AM   #5 (permalink)
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SOHC??????

What engine do YOU have?
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Old 09-14-2010, 05:32 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Lol i ment OHV

sorry me and my buddy were just having some fun,
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Old 09-20-2010, 09:48 PM   #7 (permalink)
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So, do you have a video of pulling a complete motor/tranny/subframe?

Seems like I will be doing this in the next month or so to fix a leaking front cover on a Duratech.

Bill
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Old 10-12-2010, 07:16 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arizonian View Post
So, do you have a video of pulling a complete motor/tranny/subframe?

Seems like I will be doing this in the next month or so to fix a leaking front cover on a Duratech.

Bill
Lol no. Lets make one? where ya at maybe i can swing by with my tools.
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Old 10-27-2010, 07:12 PM   #9 (permalink)
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It all sounds good.......but,

"Install the CMP housing and sensor if removed."
I would suggest NOT removing the CMP. If it is special attention to marking it good and placing it back in the exact position before turning the crankshaft to tighten the valves.
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Old 11-21-2010, 10:39 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kgrantkey View Post
It all sounds good.......but,

"Install the CMP housing and sensor if removed."
I would suggest NOT removing the CMP. If it is special attention to marking it good and placing it back in the exact position before turning the crankshaft to tighten the valves.
Good catch i will edit that part out. there are a lot of steps you can skip but that is definitely a good step to skip.
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