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Old 08-06-2010, 11:22 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Question Alternator removal Duratec 3.0 V6 1996

I need to replace my alternator and have done a search about its removal and came across this post
Alternator replacement. 98 SE. 3.0 DOHC 24V - Ford Forums posted 08.
has anyone else been able to remove the alternator without lowering subframe or removing half shaft? or do you really have to do one or the other to get to the alternator?
thanks

Last edited by tau1dee; 08-06-2010 at 11:24 PM.
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Old 08-07-2010, 01:26 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I think dropping the subframe would be easiest, and i am not sure if there is a way around it.

The alternator removal of the Vulcan is much easier.
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Old 08-08-2010, 08:39 PM   #3 (permalink)
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It can come out without moving the subframe. With the front jacked up and the wheels hanging, remove the plastic inner fender cover and unbolt the alternator. Carefully drop it and rotate it 180 degrees, then inch it out between the body and axle. Be careful not to damage the crank sensor, which sits below the alternator. Remember to put the top two bolts back in the alternator before putting it back in the car.
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Old 08-09-2010, 04:01 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Okay thanks very much for your replies.

I'd like to ask if i may, is it important to just have the front jacked up with the wheels hanging,does this give it more clearence to remove alternator?
or can I run the car up on front wheel ramps and still access the alternator?
Thanks for your help

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Old 08-09-2010, 05:42 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tau1dee View Post
Okay thanks very much for your replies.

I'd like to ask if i may, is it important to just have the front jacked up with the wheels hanging,does this give it more clearence to remove alternator?
or can I run the car up on front wheel ramps and still access the alternator?
Thanks for your help
You need to pull the right front wheel off and remove the plastic inner fender liner to have the easiest time doing this.
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Old 08-11-2010, 06:15 AM   #6 (permalink)
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understood, thanks all
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Old 03-07-2011, 03:35 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I just did this job on '99 Sable.
The link in the original post is the same link that is in the topic finder.
That link is broken.
So I will post some helpful thoughts here.
First it is not as bad as people say.
It comes out without having to drop the subfrome or pulling the axel.

Use the rag method to remove/replace the serpintine belt, search these boards for the method.
Works like a charm no busted knuckles.

Get the upper two "stud bolts" first this way the car isn't jacked, making it a long reach into the engine compartment.
There is not enough space to fit a deep well socket and ratchet handle bewteen the fender well and the bolt.
My solution was to not press the socket onto the ratchet all the way.
This let the socket clear the stud on the bolt and reach the head.
The head of these "stud bolts" is not tall, they are very thin, with rounded corners.
A 12 point socket will not get enough purchase to turn the bolt.
I used 6 point sockets and all was well.
While I could fit a normal ratchet handle in there, there was no room to turn it.
I used a ratchet with a short throw and a handle that bent.
Like these

The front top bolt came out and was removed.
The rear bolt, towards the firewall, has a bracket on it that holds the powersteering pump line.
Take the nut off the stud and you can move the bracket off the end and over the stud.
This takes some effort.
Then you can get the socket on there to loosen the "stud bolt".
This bolt is to long to remove until the alternator is out of the car.

As Dan said remove the tire and plastic insterts from the wheel well.
You can look right in and see the bottom bolt.
It is a little hard to get a ratchet on and turn it but, nothing compared to the top bolts.
Once the bottom bolt was out I could diconnect the electric from the back.
One set clipped in, one wire bolted down.
Here is what it looks like this will help in picturing it coming out

At this point with the alternator lower then were it was bolted in, you can turn the whole thing around so the pulley is facing the engine.
When in the right spot it turns easily.
Someone said taking it out is like walking a couch around a corner\through a door.
Which makes sense.
Put the legs through the door first then the couch, then angle the couch so the back legs come through the door.
When you look at this alternator the offsets on the back are the legs of the couch.
With the pulley facing the motor bring the first leg under the wheel well in front of the strut.
Now the pulley is facing down and one leg is clear.
Slide the alternator out until the rear leg hits the wheel well.
(someone said they ripped there CV boot doing this, that must have been frustration because it comes out easy)
Rotate the alternator up, so the pulley now faces out and the other leg is free.
Remember what WJC said and put the bolt back in before you get it back in place and start to swear.

Getting the alternator out was the easy part.
Those top bolts were a real SOB.
Hope this helps others who have read the horror stories.

The issue with my alternator was, a brush had disintergrated.
$8 bucks for a new set and I was on the road.
Cheers!
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Last edited by The Hound; 12-23-2012 at 10:02 PM.
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Old 03-07-2011, 09:45 AM   #8 (permalink)
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^ Great additional tips and detail! Thanks!
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Old 03-07-2011, 11:25 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Glad it helped.
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Old 04-16-2011, 02:12 AM   #10 (permalink)
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