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Old 11-13-2012, 11:41 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Default Passenger versus Driver?

The passenger-window-no-go failure mode does seem a bit too common - a very big bit. I have a working theory it might be due (initially at least) to a system design flaw: circuitry that fails to prevent conflicts (current overload conflicts, that is) between driver-side and passenger-side passenger window motor voltage application. I call it the "driver-on-my left, rider-on-my right" (DOML-ROML) failure mode. (I suppose there could just as well be the DUF-PIB ("driver-up-front, passengers in back) failure mode, so take your pick.) By conflict I mean: "I say up, she says down"; and vice versa.

Anyway, do you recall any window-actuation-rights "discussions" prior to the first instance your own DOML-ROML problems?

Oh, and did you happen to get a picture of the motor you tore out? I'm looking at another theory to explain the incredible frequency of once rare window motor failures.

Last edited by lexis more; 11-13-2012 at 11:52 AM. Reason: title
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Old 11-17-2012, 12:58 AM   #12 (permalink)
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In my case, the problem has nothing to do with conflicting switch operation, since it has occurred only when I'm alone in the car. In fact it's rare I have anyone else in the car with me.

No, I did NOT get any pictures of the disassembled motors which, as I mentioned, looked perfectly new on the insides. So far, though, I have had no further problems with window operation. I always briefly tap the switches to back them off just a bit from "absolute" up or down positions (not enough to cause any noticeable air or water leakage), thus possibly preventing their jamming in those positions, per my theory.
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Old 11-17-2012, 10:31 AM   #13 (permalink)
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From About.com (btw I've has this on my RR window on 99 sable wagon)

Taurus Power Windows
Q. Here's the info about the car:
1. 1997 Ford Taurus GL
2. 3.0 liter
3. Automatic
4. 60,000
5. Fuel Injection
6. No

The problem I've been having is intermittent. On occasion both the driver and back right power windows have decided NOT to go back up. After sitting overnight it seems all is OK and they go back up. I've interchanged the 3 relays (Ford FOAB 14B192-AA) in the fuse panel and still no luck. When trying to power up the window I hear nothing in the relay but when trying to power down the already down window I do hear the relay energizing.
Got any ideas? Do I need to get the car hooked up to an analyzer?
D. Korsten
A. Intermittent electrical problems are the worst kind to track down. Every mechanic in the world shudders when a customer comes in with one.
Ford issued a TSB on power windows sticking and binding on 1996 - 2001 Taurus and Sables. They attribute this to the window glass sticking to the weatherstrip. They recommend cleaning the weatherstrip and spraying it with silicone spray to correct the problem.
If doing this does not resolve the problem, then you need to check to see if the window motor is getting power. Of course you can only do this when the windows are inoperative otherwise everything will check out good.
This is the service procedure to check the power window motors.
1. With engine running, verify the power window operation by holding the power window switch in the down position for approximately 5 seconds. If window operates, proceed to Step 8. If window does not operate, proceed to Step 2.
2. Remove door trim panel.
3. Remove window motor from regulator and hook up a Digital Volt-Ohm Meter (DVOM) to measure DC volts at window motor connector.
4. With engine running, depress window switch (including driver master switch) and verify a minimum of 12V at motor connector. If voltage is OK, proceed to Step 5. If under 12 volts, investigate switch or other source of resistance.
5. Reconnect electrical connectors and function window motor.
6. If motor functions, reinstall motor. If motor exhibits lock-up, replace motor.
7. Pry the weatherstrip seal from the door glass along the header.
8. Lower the window and clean the weatherstrip glass run with a clean cloth that has been saturated with silicone spray.
I would clean and silicone the weatherstrip before I go and take anything apart.
Additional Information provided courtesy of ALLDATA
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Old 11-17-2012, 11:49 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Again, my theory is that the windows simply get jammed somehow when in full up or full down position (or by sticky weatherstripping). For example when they reach the full up position, what stops them is nothing more than the top of the window frame -- by the same action as when someone's arm is caught in the window, thus preventing the window from lopping off the arm. If you continue holding the switch in the up position, current is automatically cut to the motor after a few seconds, and becomes inoperable for a few more seconds, by a heat-sensitive contact strip inside the motor. For some reason, something occasionally jams in the window drive mechanism (i.e., the "regulator" -- and NOT anything inside the motor), in effect duplicating the window's full up (or down) position, and until the regulator mechanism is somehow relieved -- by either partial disassembly, or vibration, or simply waiting -- the motor senses that continued non-overcomable resistance, and cuts the current after a few seconds of switch application. Try my method of always backing off full-up and full-down positions by briefly tapping the reverse button to relieve that stress on the mechanism. If that doesn't work, then I think it's likely caused, as Canyonero suggests, by weatherstrip binding -- which would be essentially the same problem (and if his isn't the permanent fix, then I don't know what is, because you'll likely never get everyone to properly perform my "reverse-switch-tapping" routine). And again, I suspect the landfill is full of expensive, fully operable window motors that mechanics were perfectly happy to replace, and often the problem cleared up due to nothing more than regulator relubrication, or "freeing up" the system by simply working on it..., or maybe the whole problem recurred after the car left the service bay with new window motors.
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