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Old 03-26-2010, 01:41 AM   #1 (permalink)
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I have an interesting oil question about the bulls i work on. Currently i run 10w 30 in all of my bulls. Is this too thick oil? Two of the bulls have the 3.8 engine and the last has a vulcan. I run M1 HM 10w 30 in the 176k vulcan engine because of mileage and in one of the 3.8's because it had rod knock but i put new bearings on and didnt machine the crankshaft journal so im worried about using 5w 30 because it could be too thin for the potentially worn bearing clearances. The other taurus is the other 3.8 and it has never had any engine issues and is at only 77k miles. Currently i run 10w 30 in that too just because of habit from the other tauruses.

Should I be ok to keep running 10w 30 in all of these engines? I live in the mid west if climate conditions could be an issue.
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Old 03-26-2010, 06:55 AM   #2 (permalink)
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You're all right running 10W30 oil in all of the engines. In my silverado I've run 10W40 year 'round and never have had any issue. The truck has 295,000km's on it and has used that oil from 18,000km which is when my father first bought the truck back in '96.
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Old 03-26-2010, 08:13 AM   #3 (permalink)
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5w-30 and 10w-30 are basically the same thing, you can even use a 0w-30!

when they are hot they will all act damn near identical.......

I don't know why they still sell 10w-30.... I think its because so many old schoolers still buy it and they make money off of it. Another factor is its cheaper to make for the oil company, if they sell all their product at same price, they make more money off of you when you choose the 10w-30 over the 5w-30. 10w-30 is also a popular quick oil change place grade of oil. Again, the almighty dollar. I can get 55 gallon drums of oil from a distributor that will remain nameless. A 5w-30 55 gallon drum of Formula Shell is over 200 bucks more then a 10w-30 55gallon drum of Formula Shell

if you have been putting 10w-30 in your car, 5w-30, or 0w-30 will have no adverse effects

I have used 0w-30, 5w-30, and 0w-40 in my SHO lately, all synthetic oils..... I stick with the Mobil 1 0w-40 now for a few reasons, none of them is worrying about engine wear

remeber, the smaller the number on the winter rating, the better start up protection you have when the oil is under 180-200 degrees.....

don't confuse the first number with the second, they have no relation. If you wanted a hard number to look at for the first value that relates to the weight of the oil, then your oil bottles would look like this

this is HIGHLY estimated, just for example

0w-30 would be say 60-30
5w-30 would be say 70-30
10w-30 would say 90-30

a 0w oil at room temperate is usually THICKER then a 20w-50 at operating temperature. You want thinner oil........ I would never buy a 10w oil these days unless I was looking for something specific in the oil and I wasn't using its numbering scheme to determine my purchase, just the actual ingredients and composition of the oil.

for instance, I'd probably use 10w-30 HM Mobil 1 over 5w-30 Mobil 1..... the ingredients inside the bottle are different, not just the way it flows in this case. When I do oil changes on other people's cars I usually use 0w-30 AFE Mobil 1 though if the car is spec'd for 30wt oils.......
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Old 03-26-2010, 09:07 AM   #4 (permalink)
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The wider the range of viscosity the more difficult the formulation, the more difficult it is to create uniform batches of product (greater variation from bottle to bottle) and the less stable the formulation is.
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Old 03-26-2010, 09:20 AM   #5 (permalink)
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QUOTE (2000Sable @ Mar 26 2010, 09:07 AM)
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The wider the range of viscosity the more difficult the formulation, the more difficult it is to create uniform batches of product (greater variation from bottle to bottle) and the less stable the formulation is.[/b]
some of the non synthetics may suffer from ill effects of a wider range, mainly shearing over long term useage, but the GF-4 SM oils are pretty robust, just about any non synthetic oil with that rating can be run for 5,000 miles.

Your bigger players in the oil market know what they are doing and I wouldn't worry about uniform batches..........

in fact some of the most popular synthetics in use today are 0w's

from Castrol Syntec 0w-30, Mobil 1 0w-40, Mobil 1 0w-20, Toyota 0w-20, to Redline 0w-40. I would use any of those oils before I bought a 10w-30 or 5w-20 and sleep much better at night, superior products.........

even the Mobil 1 Racing oils are only made in 0w-20 and 0w-30 nowadays. Those are the oils they run in ALMS and NASCAR just to name a couple racing leagues with Mobil 1 racing oil users........

The 0w oils are usually a higher quality base stock, with less VI improvers in them and are more simple to make..... Sometimes we wonder how they turn oils with the same basic formulation to 5w and 10w oils..... they have to add stuff to thicken them up...... Knowledge is key
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Old 03-26-2010, 12:02 PM   #6 (permalink)
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You have the right idea.... I like to run 5w 30 in the winter as its a bit thinner and tends to hopefully have a little better ability of getting in the engine quicker on cold cold weather starts. But in the summer 10w 30 is a useable oil I htink. The added thickness may help when your engine is running hotter in the hot summer weather.

Both are alright to run. I wouldnt go much thicker or much thinner though. That 5w 30 is reccomended for a reason. 0w 30 or 10w 40 is pushing it on the Taurus/Sable engines. May work in a truck but thats a different story.
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Old 03-26-2010, 12:14 PM   #7 (permalink)
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you guys aren't understanding, 0w-30 is not thinner, you can use a 0w-30 oil in any car that uses a 30wt oil recommendation

0w-30, 10w-30, 5w-30, 50w-30(if there was such a thing) ARE ALL RATED AS A 30WT oil at operating temperature, that means they fall between a specific viscosity range. You have thinner 30wts and thicker 30wts, no 2 are the same. The Castrol Syntec 0w-30 is a VERY thick 30wt oil, it is almost a 40wt oil. I do believe it is thicker then the Castrol Syntec 10w-30 at operating temps...... put that in your pipe and smoke it

you get the best of both worlds with a 0w oil..... technically it doesn't make sense for them to even make 5w and 10w oils.... i think its all for the money, if Mobil came out tomorrow and stopped making Mobil 1 in 5w-30 and 10w-30 and only made 0w-30... they would loose business because 98% of people don't understand motor oils and they think its some kind of watery death potion for their engine...... technology is a wonderful thing. Do some research and you might find yourself buying some better oils next time, stuff you would have never thought about using before.... and your engine will like it.

its ok, I used to be a 10w-30 or 20w-50 kinda guy, I was niave..... now I use 0w-20/30/40 oils
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Old 03-26-2010, 12:54 PM   #8 (permalink)
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QUOTE (38sho @ Mar 26 2010, 12:14 PM)
Quote:
you guys aren't understanding, 0w-30 is not thinner, you can use a 0w-30 oil in any car that uses a 30wt oil recommendation

0w-30, 10w-30, 5w-30, 50w-30(if there was such a thing) ARE ALL RATED AS A 30WT oil at operating temperature, that means they fall between a specific viscosity range. You have thinner 30wts and thicker 30wts, no 2 are the same. The Castrol Syntec 0w-30 is a VERY thick 30wt oil, it is almost a 40wt oil. I do believe it is thicker then the Castrol Syntec 10w-30 at operating temps...... put that in your pipe and smoke it

you get the best of both worlds with a 0w oil..... technically it doesn't make sense for them to even make 5w and 10w oils.... i think its all for the money, if Mobil came out tomorrow and stopped making Mobil 1 in 5w-30 and 10w-30 and only made 0w-30... they would loose business because 98% of people don't understand motor oils and they think its some kind of watery death potion for their engine...... technology is a wonderful thing. Do some research and you might find yourself buying some better oils next time, stuff you would have never thought about using before.... and your engine will like it.

its ok, I used to be a 10w-30 or 20w-50 kinda guy, I was niave..... now I use 0w-20/30/40 oils[/b]
Your theory is that the first number means nothing.... 30 weight oil is 30 weight oil I agree there with you to an extent. Theres more to that first number than you think. You may want to do some more research before saying oh yeah lets all run 0w 30 in our cars.... If theres no difference between 5w 30 and 10w 30 then why do people get a tad better gas mileage when running their 5w vs their 10w? Even though they both are 30 weight oils they are not equal.
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Old 03-26-2010, 11:22 PM   #9 (permalink)
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So you guys are in agreement that it would be ok to switch to 5w 30? Would it be any benefit in the high mileage engine or to the 3.8 that had rod issues in the past to run 10w 30? I know 10w 30 is ok to run i guess but what you guys are saying is that 5w 30 is just better performing? Im worried about the engines getting enough lubrication at start up which is why i wanted to post to you guys considering switching oil weights.

Oh and I saw that Mobil 1 makes High Mileage formula in 5w 30 now. That was the oil i was considering switching to.
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Old 03-27-2010, 12:20 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I would worry less about the weight and more about the type of oil you are using. Also i would avoid high mileage oils that can cause more problems than they solve with your seals swelling.

I use Mobil 1 5w-30 in my Vulcan, the regular stuff and its probably what would serve you well.

Just get good old Mobil 1, and stay away from the High mileage additives and let the regular detergents and additives do their job with a good quality oil filter. The oil filter is just as important.

What filter are you using ? I would recommend Puralator Pureones if you want top quality without paying for the K&N and the Mobil 1 filters which are better with synthetic media.

Motorcraft is always a safe choice if you want more affordable filters that make Fram look like junk.
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